Kingfish

The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle. It never rode great, but now I feel every crack in the road. I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff. I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order. Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate? I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.

The battery manufacturer of mine say they have never heard of the Delta-Q charger. I am no longer concerned about the charger going into E013. DQ customer support said it will do no harm to the charger to sit that way for a while. The onboard BMS stops all charge to the batteries so there is no danger of overcharge. At some point I may try changing the algorithm to #133 and see what % the the batteries charge up to. This would allow the charger to perform as before with the Discover batts. and stop the charging on its own.

In case anyone is interested, I heard back from CS. Apologies for the confusion. Understood about your choice of algorithm. Just wanted to be sure that it is the BMS expected behavior to shut off charge input when it reaches 100% and not the overvoltage protection getting tripped. Some errors will completely disable the charger outputs and will only clear after an AC reset or a corrective action. However, with error E013, it seems that the DC output relay keeps switching in an attempt to push current to the batteries. Continuous relay switching can over time shorten its lifespan. While we don’t have specific data on how long the relay would last under these conditions, generally, reducing the number of this switching transitions would extend the relay’s lifespan. So, it's better to prevent this error condition in the first place. Regards, Vincent Febrianto, Customer Support Team Delta-Q Technologies a ZAPI GROUP Company

I have done a LiPo4 battery upgrade on my E1. I have reprogrammed the charge profile to #386. With the onboard BMS the controller cuts off all charge from the IC1200 when the battery reaches 100% to prevent overcharge. When this happens the charger begins flashing the yellow light and displays the error code 013 which is telling me the battery is no longer accepting a charge input which is as it should be. I hear a relay switching in and out every few seconds as the charger continues to try to reach the shutoff charge profile voltage. My question is will it cause any harm to the IC1200 to stay in this state for hours or maybe even days if I don't get out to unplug it? I used to leave the E1 plugged in all the time with the old Discover batteries.

So I took the leap and did the LiPo4 conversion. I purchased 2 Ogrphy 48v 100ah off Amazon when they were on sale @ $789 ea. All I can say is WOW, the difference is amazing. First is the obvious weight difference. Two 88lb batts vs 8 discover batteries which I think are 65lb each. It actually feels like I have power steering there is so much less weight on the front end. Second is the performance. With the old Discover ones I could only drive around in M at speeds from 5-10 mph for 14 miles before the low voltage code started flashing. One time I wasn't sure I was going to make it back to the house before it shut down. I just got back from a test drive. Both batts were at 95%. I traveled almost 20 miles in H range at or near top speed the entire trip. After arriving home one battery was at 63% and the other 68% so I roughly used 30% although the mfg. recommends not taking them below 20% for longevity. The torque it has now is almost too much. If your driving along at 15 or 20 mph. and you hit a bump, just a little extra pressure on the pedal will snap your head back. It held speed going up modest hills which even when new the vehicle wouldn't do. The battery management system is really great as well. Bluetooth connectivity to your phone. You can monitor each battery for voltage, amperage, temp, and wattage consumed. You can switch either battery on and off even while under motion. It actually drives a little smoother with only one battery on because the torque is a little lower. The BMS has overcharge prevention as well as low temp cutoff to prevent damage. You can also switch batteries on and off while charging. I'm not sure why one battery is being used a little more over the other. I just figure it's slight differences in internal resistances. I may contact the mfg about it at some point and see what they say. Everything worked just the same as with the old dry cells, even the temp. gauge on the dash. I'm not sure exactly were the sensor is so I was surprised when it started ticking up. The dash voltmeter is an unknown what it will show when I get near full discharge, but I suspect due to the nature of Lithium batteries, it will just stay on full until until near the end then drop quickly. My only issue is with the Delta-Q charger. I changed the charge algorithm to 386 which was the closest to what the mfg recommended (57.6 +- .8v) When the batts reach full charge the BMS stops all current flow. This causes the charger to flash yellow and show error code 013 which is battery is no longer accepting charge which is exactly what is happening. My only concern is what if any effect this will have on the charger. I can hear a relay clicking in and out as it continues to try to send a charge to the batts. Does anyone know if this will cause harm to the IC1200? I worry about leaving the charger plugged in overnight because the batts will be fully charged before I can get out there to unplug it in the morning. The only real issue I had with the installation was the physical size of the new batteries. They are much larger so they did not fit in the tray the way the old batteries did. I had to remove the trays and build a wooden ones and use ratchet straps to hold them in place. That will work for now, but I will need to figure out a better arrangement in the future. I am extremely pleased with how this all went and knowing I will get many more years of life out of the E1. I highly recommend this upgrade if you are considering it. The only unknown is will the batteries keep working without issue. They do have a 5 year mfg warranty, but since they come from China (as most things) who knows if they will be around then, but it wouldn't kill me to have to buy a replacement at some point at that price.

Thank you for the link. I have read it in the past and may at some point decide to do the conversion. My current need is for a single Discover EVGT6A-A that I can order online and have it shipped to me. This isn't about all the batteries ageing out and needing replacement. The failed battery was because the connection from the battery to the cable developed a high resistance connection and it literally melted the lead around the terminal and the threaded insert came out. I have found an "equivalent replacement" on line, but based on the price I believe it to be a lower quality than the Discover. If given no other option, I may order one and see how it works out. The Hisun plant in Texas doesn't even have any of these batteries for me to order one through my dealer.

I've had a battery failure and need one replacement. The local distributor told me it might take up to four weeks to get one. I'd like to order one in sooner than that if possible. Any help would be appreciated.

So after studying the schematic, I started looking for the 30A fuse that goes from the charger to the batteries. I found it mounted to one of the batteries. The fuse holder had actually melted. I replaced the fuse and holder and the charger started right up. I kept an eye on temperature of the new holder and the wires running to it. They get quite warm, but not enough to melt the new holder at this point. I am worried what made it so hot in the first place and am concerned it will happen again. We'll just have to wait and see.

Appreciate whatever light you can shine on the issue. I am an experienced electronics technician so I know where and how to be safe. I just wish I could find a wiring diagram for the E1 so I could troubleshoot it easier. I probably could even repair the charger itself if a schematic was available for it. Hopefully others will weigh in here with more info. Any little tidbit could be a clue down the right path.

Thanks for the reply and the pdf file. I found something similar on the Delta-Q website. Since I posted originally, I have done a good bit of research on the charger. I discovered the status display on the charger. The charge indicator green light is not on. The only light is the blue AC power light connected indicator. I have not had the chance to try to read the error code display. When I was looking at it, there was no characters being displayed. How to you trigger the display to output the error code? Should it continuously cycle through the code when plugged in, or dose it just do it once when the AC power is first connected?

Yesterday I took my E1 out and everything was fine. I plugged it in when I got back like I normally do. When I went to take it out I noticed the battery had not charged overnight. I reconnected the charger and watched its behavior. When first plugged in the yellow light on the charge indicator panel is on for a couple of seconds, then it starts to flash the green charge light as usual. After about a second I hear a relay click and the green light goes out. About 2 seconds it starts the charge light flashing, then quits like before. It does this cycle 4 times and then the yellow light starts blinking. There is no code displayed on the main instrument panel. Any help would be appreciated. My dealer said to call Hisun, they've never worked on one. Hisun told me to read my owners manual. I found no reference to the charge indicator panel in the manual.

Hello, I just purchased an E1 last month and the seat situation was the first thing I had to resolve. It was giving me pain in my lower back. Here is what I did to resolve it. There are four brackets that hold the seat back to the frame bar. Take out the bottom screws and loosen the top screws about half way out. Go to the lumber yard or Lowes and buy a 2X2 8 ft. long. Cut the 2x2 to 50". Now slide the 2x2 between the back seat and the frame. Put one of the flat sides against the seat so there is not a square edge creating a pressure point against the back plastic which could cause it to crack. Adjust the 2x2 so an equal amount sticks out both sides. Now put the lower screws back in and tighten them until they are snug, but not to where they start to bend the bracket. Tighten the upper screws back down snug as well. This will give you a comfortable seat back angle. It is now about the same as my Polaris ranger which I have been happy with. I painted my brace black so it would not look too out of place, but that is up to you. The only down side to this fix is it pushes the bottom of the seat back forward a couple inches so you loose some of the leg clearance which was minimal to start with. I banged my knee a couple of times on the cup holder till I got used to it. Hope this works for you.