tsheh4

Ouch. That is pretty rough news. I will be keeping my eyes out mine....

I've got an email in with hunterworks, will report back when I hear something. They guy is active on some yahmaha forums and seems like a good guy to work with. We shall see.

Cliffyk im starting to figure out you are the go to guy for info on these machines. Appreciate your info very much, on this and a a few other posts over the last week. I had the concept in my head right, just didnt nail the vernacular. So now a little deeper down the rabbit hole... I need to figure out how much parts interchangeability there is between a yahmaha and my 400, and the weight of the weights in the variator. Looking at a primary variator made by an outfit called hunterworks. They have applications for many different machines, and they are supposedly machined to be able to give you a little deeper gearing on the low end and slightly higher on the high end. They also make weights to attach to the wet clutch shoes to give a more positve and quicker engagement. From what in hearing there is a chance the kits for a 660 rhino may be a fit.... but im looking for some validation before I drop the cash.

Alright folks, finally got my buggy off the farm, loaded into my truck bed (yes they fit beautifully in a 6 ft Ford bed,) and taken out to the woods for a trail ride. Machine did great, with me, another full size guy, my 3 year old son, and a dog, we were still able to hit around 50 on the speedo on straight smooth roads, and still was able to climb some decent grades. I had a couple of observations and questions for yall. What notch on the suspension are you using? With all the above weight it still felt to be hitting pretty hard two notches from the softest setting. I loosened it up to the lightest the front, and left the rear as is, and if seems to feel better and still not squatting much with me in it. Also, anyone else notice the tire rubber seems to be really soft? I am noticing significant wear and I am still under 200 miles on mine. Third, I made an attempt to climb a fairly steep quarry wall, no dice, even with just me on board. Clutches started to slip on me. I am debating doing some mods in that regard to help compensate a little for the lack of a low range. I posted looking for info over in the hisun forum if anyone wants to chime in. Overall I am very pleased with the unit. Nothing broke, she rode well, is spacious for its size, and seem to sip the fuel.

Question for the audience, does anyone know the differences in the hs400 and hs500 primary belt clutche and the wet clutch? I have been told the 500 and up engines use a clutch that is interchangeable with yahmahas, but the 400s have a different part number as far as I can find. Is this maybe just different weights in the clutch? Also does anyone know what the factory weights are? Went for a ride in my 400 this week and looking to see if I can get a little more out of her as far as holding higher rpms and maybe getting a bit more aggressive clutch engagement sooner.

Ah man if they get back with you let us know! I would feel alot better with a Wix or Purolator than the mysterious unbranded China filter....

Only reason I went with the tractor fluid other then it was what I had was the fact that it is universal trans hydraulic oil. Plain hydraulic oil does not have the additives it has as far as I know. Modern tractor uses it for the hydraulic pump, uses it for lubrication of the gear case, uses it for the brakes and diff locks (a wet clutch setup if memory serves in by Kubota,) and uses it for lubrication of the hypoid gears for the rear diff in the tractor. Similar demands of ATF. Ill report back if it gives me any issues.

The filter I first bought and tried was the ac delco equivelent of a fram ph4386.... threads right, diameter right, slightly longer, but bottomed out on the threads.... point being if anyone tries an unknown filter, you can tell if it is going to work by feel.... if you twist it on and it just comes to a stop, its probably gonna leak. You should be able to feel the gradual tightenting of the gasket the last turn or so.

Interesting, I was pretty sure it was 3/4 16 thread... The filters that Walmart had for motorcycles, with the recessed threads, Fram pH6017 I believe it is, have a 20mm thread and did not work. Slightly bigger than the 3/4 hole. The toro filter I bought was part number 136-7848P.

Let us know how the lab report comes out. Just did my first change at 22 hours and it wasnt bad, a little dark but still fairly clean oil. My front diff wound up with tractor trans - hydraulic oil because thats what I had a huge pail of laying around. As far as I understand it is very similar to atf, maybe a hair thicker, but still thinner than gear oil (the hypoid oil you refered to is just gl3 4 or 5 rated gear oil as far as I know) or 30 wt motor oil.

Oh and FWIW the identical Toro filter is $13.99 at Tractor supply.

Yeah im missing the skin on a couple knuckles.... one of these days ill learn to use gloves. Was able to get it with channel locks but there aint alot of working room. .. I was about a half second from driving a screwdriver through it and doing it that way.

I am jealous of you Floridians. Up here in Oklahoma, regardless of having a lot of liberties compared to a lot of other places, they are pretty restrictive with road laws. Pretty much have to take it out to the national forrest roads or be engaged in "animal husbandry." Good thing I have a few cattle I guess. I did see your post on the muffler mod, it is now on my to-do list. Might watch out with that flag, some yankee might look up what it is and invent a way to get offended. 😉

Went to do the break in service on my buggy the other day. 10W 30 motorcycle oil, check. 85w 90 for rear diff, check. ATF for front diff, check (okay I cheated and used trans-hydraulic tractor oil, similar stuff.) Oil filter, now that was a tough one. Being the good red-blooded American male that I am, I refused to buy the overpriced Hisun filter and have it shipped in. Surely there was a cross reference that will fit it... So I do some digging, and some measuring, came up with a 2.5inch diameter filter with 3/4 16 threads. Easy, pulled the correct filter at Walmart, an AC Delco is what I grabbed, no dice. The only difference is the Hisun filter has a concave top around the threads, while most filters are covex or flat. They designed it (probably to sell filters I guess) to where the base of the filter adapter on the machine will bottom out on the filter before the gasket on most other brands of filter. I did find a filter at tractor supply for Toro twin cylinder lawn mower engines that is identical to the Hisun filter. I just ended up paying more than if had ordered the Hisun one. Tis the price of stubbornness.

Also.... check the bolt that holds the shift linkage down that goes down into the transmission if your having issues with reverse still, mine was almost backed out all the way. I played with the linkage several times trying to get it right until I figured that one out. Tightened it down, adjusted the linkage to where the neutral light lit consistently with the shifter in the right place, and it seems to be spot on. I have 22 hours on mine now, (15 on it when I bought it from Tractor Supply) heres to hoping it stays right.

Very nice! I I have heard great things about the resin printers, I sure would consider one knowing how many hours I've spent tinkering with my FDM printer getting the settings right. I have gone to mainly PTEG as my plastic of choice, as most of my projects are outdoor in nature and it holds up better than PLA. Not to mention it doesnt fume up my shop room like ABS. The switch plate is rough at this point but functional. May consider closing in the sides for aesthetic purposes. I left them open for ease of access. I put little 3/4 inch Velcro pads in behind the three square areas to allow it to be removed easily for future projects. All the wiring runs to an extra fuse block mounted to the frame above the drivers side shock, which feeds from the battery leads on the winch relay. Currently I only have 4 switches in use, cargo area lights, interior lights, an aux power port in the bed for running a sprayer or whatever, and an additional cigarette lighter plug up front. May add some other goodies in the future.

Yeah even the service manual has some goofs in it still. I went to do my break in service and there is a separate oil listed for the transmission, which, correct me if I'm wrong, is lubricated by engine oil in my machine. Colemam/Hisun would have a hit with these things if the would get their QC and documentation together. I bought mine on a pretty good discount at Tractor Supply due to it being returned. Shift linkage was out of wack and the fuel gage didn't work..... tightened the bolt on the transmission that holds the end of the shiftcable (it was nearly backed out) adjusted the linkage, and pushed the plug on the fuel sender in until it clicked and she was 100%. Oh, and tightened about a dozen other loose fasteners across the whole unit. The 3d printer started as $100 El cheapo tronXY. I have since redesigned and upgraded the hot end to make it to where I could print abs, pteg and nylon, and rebuilt it to use a 200x275mm heated bed. A new board and a new housing for it all is in the works

Steven it was, and mine was built last October 2020. Rear slant cylinder, and the front of the manual looks like that, spiral bound instead of glue bound. I haven't looked too much into the technical side of it, just that the controls are referenced right in the new one he sent.

Got a couple things folks, first off I uploaded some files to print a mount for auxiliary switches in the Coleman download section that requires no drilling the dash, as well as a mount for a slow moving vehicle placard on the tailgate. Also, when I emailed Coleman for my MSO I was able to get the rep to send me a current manual. The one that came with my buggy had an entirely different control layout than what is used ibn my model.

View File 3d aux switch plate and placard mount Here is a couple more 3d printed goodies, a plate that uses the existing knockouts in the dash plus some Velcro pads to mount some rocker switches for a no-drill solution, and a mount for a slow moving vehicle placard on the tailgate. Submitter tsheh4 Submitted 04/25/2021 Category Coleman  

For whats its worth, I emailed Coleman about getting my MSO and the guy there was able to send me a current manual for my buggy, the one it cane with and the one on Tractor supplies website seems to be for an older model. Nothing seems to have changed except for the column mounted controls.

View File Coleman HS400 3D printed parts Here are a few little parts I made for my new coleman 400. One is a dummy seat belt clip to make the speed limiter think a belt is engaged (for diagnostic purposes only, do not ride without your seat belt on.) Another is a replacment for the circular grommets in the front corner of the bed. The last is a replacement for the rectangular cap at the rear of the frame near the hitch. Parts may need a little sanding depending on your print settings. Enjoy! Submitter tsheh4 Submitted 04/16/2021 Category Coleman  

Hey everyone, new to the forum, just picked up a coleman 400 from tractor supply this week, and of course it was missing a couple small plastic parts. Being as I have a handy 3d printer laying around, I just made new ones. In the downloads portion of this site under the coleman section I uploaded files to print new circular caps for the tie-down holes at the front of the bed, a new cap for the end of the frame near the hitch, and a dummy clip for the seat belts. Disclaimer, always wear your seat belt while riding. That being said feel free to download and print! Check your local library for a printer if you don't have one, or there are online printing services available.