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EVSupport

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EVSupport last won the day on February 22

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  1. EVSupport
    You have just found your Duff 12v , its not a good idea to use a li 12v as they have a simple BMS inside that will simply cut off if too high a voltage, the DC to DC will then see open circuit. Not sure they will like that much, but constant disconnection and re connection isnt ideal. For what a 12v battery costs and perhaps 3 years life, I dont see the Li units as being of any value as a replacement.
  2. EVSupport
    What are the fault codes. Either on the dash, flashes on the sevcon controller , or downladed from the sevcon.
  3. EVSupport
    The 12v is not a take off / partial pack bleed off. Its created from the 48V Pack by the DC to DC converter (Silver finned block under the center of the seat in front of the Sevcon motor controller. The DC to DC runs all the while . Ie not turned on by the ign key or the charger.
  4. EVSupport
    The 12v provides the dash power and the std 12v stuff. The Main motor controller isnt supplied by 12v. Its fed with Pack voltage (48V) that pre charges the Sevcon Motor controller internal capacitors and then the Sevcon Turns on the main Contactor under the seat when the caps are charged. Hence the slight delay from turning the ign key (thats at a pack voltage) until you hear the clonk from the main contactor. The Pack voltage that is seen by the Delta Q charger is also fed to the Sevcon during charge to disable the drive if charging. (green wire to the charger ).
  5. EVSupport
    Its a std motorcycle battery. Markings of the one used will be on its side. but UK ones use a ntx20l-bx make will vary the number. They are constantly topped up from the constantly running DC to DC converter. (even when ign off the DC to DC runs.
  6. EVSupport
    !2v is continuously charged from the pack via the DC to DC, this is rated to a pack voltage of well over 80v . Its really worth turning off the pack (lead or Li ) and checking the 12v battery after about 10 mins. If its showing under 12v replace it. We are seeing a lot of the 12v battery dying at two to three years old. You dont see it normally as the DC to DC just tops it up., but that will flatten a pack in about two weeks.
  7. EVSupport
    We use one that does not appear on the list. Came directly from DeltaQ, as we use a pack that finishes charge at around 63 volt. But the last 3 volts are at a much reduced charge rate, otherwise the charger would be over rated. But it works ok for us. It also has the issue that the charger will give a fault code(but still works) if it the pack is connected to he charger at over 60v. Voltage has to drop below 59v and then it resets. We also re profile the cutback table in the Sevcon to reflect a safe use of the pack, cutting back in a series of stages, and cutting back at the top end (deals with overcharge from regen when charged) .
  8. EVSupport
    You will need the appropriate algorithm from the DeltaQ website (if they have one) you also need to have a way of stopping the charge by integration with the BMS. You can also get a on/ off addition thats from DeltaQ and that enables the ic1200 to be externally controlled by using the temp sensor connections. Follow the IC1200 instructions . Its often really hard to do as the push switch is hard find and a pain to operate
  9. EVSupport started following Hisun Sector E1 remove limiter , Question about the Delta-Q charger and Charging issue with a Sector E1
  10. EVSupport
    There is a short to stop option that can be loaded , in the same was as adding an algorithm. This then uses the two Temp senor pins and when shorted starts the charger and when open, stops it. No power switching, no removal of load.
  11. EVSupport

    EVSupport

    EVSupport posted a Community Map marker in Members

  12. EVSupport
    We change the fuses (Also a lot of E1s dont actually have a fuse on the charger) on the Hisun and the Ranger for a maxi bladed fuse https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143778366533 like these , not for high value fuses, but as they have large blades the connection is much better and the heat generated is virtually none. The ranger is the worst, they use the mini automotive fuses, The only issue is connecting them into your loom. So make the terminal to the contactor the longest leg of the fuse holder with an 8mm crimped terminal, and the other end ideally crimped to the original loom section. Any join should ideally have one or more layers of heat shrink sleeve.
  13. EVSupport
    We always assume the obvious. Glad you have found the problem.
  14. EVSupport
    If it is E013 There is no 3.E01 code, then first thing is to check all of the battery connections, These have m8 bolts but with 10mm, 13mm and 14mm heads . I have seen all on E1s most do seem to be 13mm heads but a lot of the latest have had the 10mm these are a horrible bolt, and appear to have been painted. I would change these for m8x 20mm stainless screws. Dont just try the cable to see if its loose, actually put a socket on and tighten them. Ideally you should use an insulated Ratchet and socket etc. But if you dont have that , at least lessen any shorting issues by using heat shrink sleeve on the socket and extension and tape up the ratchet. Shorting across batteries can make a real mess, and there is a good chance that you will hurt yourself trying to remove the sparking melting ratchet.
  15. EVSupport
    Not really a possibility. You may get a couple of MPG. The motor has only one bearing (like the Ranger ) and uses the gearbox input shaft as the front bearing . Upping the RPM by anything significant really does need a better bearing / front support and the field weakening mapping would need changing to get the Higher RPM. It also would have a lot lower power output at the Higher RPM. They really are what they are, and anything significant would take a lot of rework to achieve it.
  16. EVSupport
    The charger is at the front underneath the front compartment. On the drivers side is a power light and fault code display. The mains inlet is on the other end. You must have an adequate sized extension lead, (most are not) or the voltage drop causes the charger to not run. When plugged into the mains are you seeing any lights on the drivers side of the charger, is there a error or fault code being scrolled across the small screen. If you look under the seat you will see a cable with a white , black and green wire set. check these out, one will have the fuse attached to it. just follow the wires,check that fuse. If your mains plug is not a moulded one, check the connections inside. The key to not charging is to see the fault code.

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