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The cable for the charger DC side is normally quite adequate. You will struggle to get larger in to the housing easily. Dont solder only crimp. If you cant crimp get someone who can. And you will need to ensure the negative side has the temp sensor connection. Im not connected to Hisun, but I do Hisun E1 Li Ion conversions in the UK. So see them on an almost constant basis.

Suggest you check all the cabling back to the main connections to the battery pack. They are under the central hoop under the seat look for the connector with the plastic block and two leads, thats one of the charge cables. The second lead is the temp sensor lead in that plastic block. But check all the battery connections. Also check under the cover of the Delta Q charger on the right (passenger side ) side are all the wire connections take off the cover (two torx screws) and then carefully check the tightness of the torx screws holding the two larger charge leads . Its easier to take the front wheel off than simply inserting your head between the wheel and the front arch.

Check the 12v battery and the connections to the DC to DC converter. Also the fuses. But most of all check each main traction battery connection , the big red button connections and the sevcon connections before and after the main contactor. Also check any connections on the back of the ign switch. Does rocking the key gently in the ign switch do it as well.

https://www.barrus.co.uk/divisions/vehicle/hisun/the-hisun-product-range/electric-utvs/sector-15kw-lithium-ion/

They do have the higher power / voltage li ion vehicle. But as far as I am aware the importers have no intention of offering a formal factory conversion, and none are being considered. Most of the conversions I have carried out have been through the Hisun dealers, having seen the prototype which was a very early UK import, and which has been loaned to a lot of existing owners. Its certainly engendering a degree of brand loyalty, as shown by the new one, which went to an existing owner of a li ion conversion. The change was so good for their usage, they bought another . So Hisun UK importers are seeing the benefits of a Li ion conversion in terms of ensuring sales. Virtually all of the Li ion conversions are going into heavily used vehicles, where the owners can see the financial advantage of going li ion. Im not sure I will ever get to the point of offering the current conversion as a self fit. Perhaps I should look at a redesign. The problem is access, Its not easy which means you have to build the two halves of the pack in separate stages, into the chassis.

I am doing a Li ion conversion on a brand new E1, all the others have been 2019 to 2020 vehicles. There are a lot of small detail changes. The dash now uses the std engine light to signify a fault, Not sure why but they do. The running gear seems the same, with overall a bit tidier placement of cables etc. But the main motor cable now have a braided shielded out covering that is all earthed to the neutral post on the Sevcon. It will be interesting to test in a day or so if this get rid of some of the EMI (Electro magnetic Interference) the sevcons put out (I have found this on Rangers and the E1s) . Some things I dont like are still there, like the small head m6 screws holding the belly pan on, and they have gone from plated screws holding the cable lugs onto the sevcon, to painted screws with small 10mm heads. I dont like this as this then relies purely on the face to face contact of the lug rather than both faces and the threads. I have never seen any EV (UTV or automobile) using this approach. There is a large variance in the placement of the chassis components ie the under battery support and out riggers are all over the place. This makes a lot of work making fixings align. But its a fact of life and one that just has to be dealt with. The Ranger has a very tight placement of parts in comparison. Overall It looks a bit neater and tidier in the build. The one feature I think they really ought to deal with is the awful access to the propshaft grease points. This just means none ever appear to get greased. .

To reduce the amount of crud that gets thrown up under the seats / battery area of the Rangers, I do some mods when doing my UK Li ion conversions. The big one is the complete change of the battery trays, these are built as part of the new battery casings and fill the floor up to the back of the seat panel. But the most annoying feature is the big gap between the side panels and the arch liners, so I add a fill strip and a top cap. You can fit a rubber flap over the join, but I find these are more prone to getting ripped off by twigs etc. These are made from a plastic thats as virtually as indestructible as polycarbonate , but easier to heat and form. And lastly I now fit a flat panel between the antiroll bar mounts and the upright. This all helps to reduce the muck getting into the battery area. I would recommend that once a year you drop the belly pan and clean out all the stuff that goes up through the pan holes. If you drive over grass a lot then lift the floor / tunnel panel and take the mess out. The holes act like a cheese grater and you can get a lot of seeds etc crammed in that space. Now looking at a top panel to cover between the cab back and the underside of the bed, but the set up will be different between the earlier and later vehicles.

Just get it made up. You really dont want it on a reel anyway, thats a temptation not to un reel it and thats a disaster. They will melt with a high continual load when still even partially coiled. Its easier for us with 230v and access to decent 16a outdoor covered sockets. If you have access to 230v(or whatever your split phase is) then use that as the charges will work on 120/ 240. Smaller cable size / better availability. This is whats ideal for us in Europe. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113729489250? They are covered, and hold the plug in as well. So much safer than the system you have in the states.

The problem isnt the outlet. On small cables you get a big voltage drop under load. On other DeltaQ chargers (as used on the Polaris Ranger EVs) they wont charge if the voltage drop is too big when the charger kicks in. So you need an adequate cable size to reduce the voltage drop. Its not so bad for us in the UK as we have 240v mains and so dont need such large cable. It will charge from a regular power outlet, just not with a very long extension lead that isnt large enough. What is an outdoor grounded 15volt outlet?

The cable is fairly long with a number of sharp curves in it. Leaving it tight on will cause stretch, and then its going to need adjustment. Its not the greatest, but just consider it as part of regular maintenance, along with greasing the suspension grease points . I guess people dont do that either. The E1 may be electric but you still need to do maintenance. It does help with longer term ownership. Greasing the suspension bushes is really important and almost never done. Greasing pushes out the dirt that acts like grinding paste. Regularly pressure wash the bushes/ arms. It will help. Dry conditions with dust and sand can be really bad, wash off the excess grease / dust, re grease and wipe away the excess. If you are really into maintenance, then strip wash and re grease all the suspension bushes annually. The propshaft has a number of grease points, and it may be easier to do this with the belly pan removed. If you catch the belly pan at the front edge. Dont leave this, I have had a couple with this and it then acts as a scoop , result even more crud inside. .

When new take it easy and light usage for about 20 charge cycles, if you do the life of the batteries will be longer. If you thrash it from new and heavily deplete the battery pack the life will be significantly shortened. Check all the battery and power connections regularly for tightness. I do Li ion conversions on these in the UK, and all have huge amounts of crud under the seats between and down the side of the batteries, as well as under the floor in the drive tunnel hump. It helps to clear that out regularly. The small belly pan can be dropped of and let some of the stuff out, but you have to lift the floor / tunnel to get that out. I also change the bolts that hold the belly pan for std (although stainless) m6 screws, as for some reason they use screws with small heads, that easily wring round. Only use 6 point sockets on the originals, 12points will round off much easier. Occasionally check that the fan on the charger at the front hasnt got clogged up with mud.

Sector E1 12v battery. Just been doing a Li ion conversion on a customers E1, and with the old pack disconnected (DC to DC runs all the while with pack connected) the 12v battery was showing 4v. Its worth shutting off the main pack occasionally (big red button near your right leg on UK spec machines) and checking the 12v battery. Once the pack is off measure the 12v battery with a multimeter, its under the opening beneath the drivers seat behind the drivers legs. . Its important if you use the winch, as the DC to DC isnt man enough on its own to power the winch under load. Its important for me as I need a decent 12v supply to run the Electronics on the conversion. The battery is a YTX20L-BS

Sevcon list 52c2 as an over current fault. and comment check motor wiring. I would check all the cable connections, from each battery in the string, to the Sevcon and then all those to and on the motor.

I just looked at the Intimidator web site. It makes a lot about it being built of "American Steel" but like all such vehicles, most of the components will be unlikely to originate in the US. The point being mature foreign built vehicles can be good value and use many of the same components. As an example The US constructed Ranger uses a motor controller from Poland , the Hisun uses the same make. The Canadian "Designed" Delta Q chargers used by both Polaris and Hisun (different models) are actually made in China. Just dont count something out before really looking at it . Made in USA doesnt really mean its all made in US it means assembled in USA using parts sourced elsewhere. An issue with the Ranger and wet lead batteries in general, is chassis corrosion from the gas condensate. Its a real issue, and American Steel wont save you from having a rusty chassis once the paint has peeled away.

I am in the UK and only see these vehicles as real working vehicles, we dont have the leisure market here. My interest, is that I build and install Li ion conversions to Polaris Ranger EVs and Hisun E1. The Ranger (current model not the forthcoming re launch / Li ion / Expensive version) is a well established and fairly robust vehicle, but has wet lead acid batteries that need to be regularly watered. WIth all lead you get around 500 charge cycles. My commercial / landowners that equates to less than 2 years of ownership. If you dont maintain the batteries properly they might only last 6 months. With the Hisun, they have a slightly smaller motor power and a smaller sealed GEL battery pack. The Gel batteries must be treated gently for around the first 20 charges. or they fail very quickly. These too are then lasting under two years of hard usage. If you are considering long term ownership, and use such a vehicle hard then consider Li ion when the battery pack needs replacing. Its cost effective over longer and harder usage. Hard to justify when used occasionally as a leisure vehicle . Conversion does allow you to spread the capital cost, rather than the really high initial cost of a Li ion from new. Although Hisun have now launched their own Li ion vehicle, but at a much higher cost. They also have a higher power faster vehicle (demo vehicles only here in the UK so far) You need a decent power supply and dont even consider running off long extension leads. Do it properly. With all UTV maintenance is important, and keeping the suspension clean and greased is vital for long life. Hisun has a slightly complex drive shaft with a number of bearings requiring grease. With both consider dropping the belly pans / lifting the drive tunnel to clear out the crud every 6 months. Its staggering just how much can get under the floors and never cleaned out. Worst is long grass with rangers, as the plastic belly pan has holes in it and acts like a cheese grater on grass. For ride quality, I am staggered by the Hisun E1, they have used (at least in the UK market) some expensive coil overs with gas reservoirs, and the ride is brilliant. I think overall build quality of the Ranger is higher, but here they are almost twice the cost of the Hisun E1. Just dont expect a set of lead Acid or GEL to last more than two years (may be less) if you are using such a vehicle on a regular/ hard use basis (Ie charging every day after a full days use). Consider Li ion Conversions at 1stPack replacement, add that into the budget when doing your cost analysis. If replacing the pack with lead, do not expect cheap batteries to last. You really do get what you pay for, treat the first 20 charges with care and dont thrash them when new. A new set of GEL can be destroyed in a couple of months, if you dont break them in.

Main contactor is one part, Its what connects the battery pack to the main Sevcon, . You turn on the ign, that puts pack voltage to the Sevcon, if all OK the sevcon then turns on the main contactor connecting itself to the main pack. If there is a fault with the contactor (actually fairly rare) then you get either a brief drive or no drive at all. You would have got a fault come up on the main display if it was a contactor fault. If the sevcon doesnt see voltage after turning on the main contactor, it throws a fault, if the contactor has a fault giving poor voltage under load it will also give a fault code. As a point the make of contactor (Allbright) are actually a decent high quality part. Much more reliable than the ones used by Polaris to do the same job.

Interesting words the dealer has used. There is no main board. The sevcon motor controller is the only device thats involved with the drive system (other than switches and throttle etc. ) Its not a servicable item, except by the makers, so not a board replacement. It will be interesting to see the outcome. You actually get very few sevcon failures., You do however get a lot of faults caused by poor but not totally duff batteries. Rangers use the same make of controller, and like the slightly larger version they use the sevcon in the E1 is normally made in Poland. Its actually fairly straighforward to diagnose faults with the Sevcon, but you do need specific kit (IXXAT Can compact ) and software, DVT (the latter is licenced from Sevcon) to talk to the Sevcon, No other kit is supported by the software, which does allow you to change parameters, load the configuration files and download etc. Do let us know what the outcome was. And how many batteries they end up replacing.

Check all the battery terminal connections. To ensure you dont cause too many problems, use the big red cut out to split the pack and ensure the circuit is unable to be complete. Follow the circuit from the negative end on the Sevcon controller, through all of the batteries, the big red cut out, and then through the contactor to the Sevcon + becareful dont touch the =+and - and dont drop any metal tools onto the battery terminals. Add a bit of safety and wrap your spanner with insulating tape. Only have one end open. Check the 3 connections from the sevcon to the motor. Check each battery voltage as you go. Again start at the negative end of the pack. Note the voltages. Put them on here.

So on a ICE UTV engine replacement not much less than the cost of a new pack, and probably at considerably less hours than the average Li ion pack life. Thats also assuming the rest of the systems are not required to be changed, a bit like changing the engine to find the EFI and the main processor also needs changing. Dont forget no drive belts, no engine oil changes, no fuel filters, no oil filters and disposal costs. Its not so unrealistic. Companies tend to make products to price, as consumers we tend to assume that you are still getting the high quality we had years ago when the product was made in a higher cost economy. So much of what we buy and the waste associated with its creation is now shifted to the far east. Dont just talk about battery waste being put into Asian land fill, think about all the waste that gave you your lap top, the kitchen utensils, your TV etc etc etc, oh and a high proportion of parts that are in the GM and Ford Vehicles that are made in the US. You have already left that waste behind, and the pollution from the coal fired power station making it. We are all now so disconnected from the stuff we buy. Michigan may have cleaner skys now that the industry has gone, but other places now have it instead. The Article is full of un substantiated "Facts" and figures. Many of which I dont see any research to support. The MI doesnt apear to be an organisation inclined towards the Climate change agenda or any move to sutainability. I had assumed it was an Educational establishment from the title rather than what is in effect a lobby organisation, for big business. For many of us the other side of the Pond we feel fortunate not to have had 4 years of alternative facts. Thanks for sharing the source it does help to understand someones viewpoint. I have been to the US a few times, mostly to Montana and Wyoming and it is such a different world to us in Europe. I live in a village with a population of about 700. we are about 8 miles from a town of 7000, 12 miles from one of 30,000 and 10 miles from one heading to 200000. We are 50 miles from London and no one is ever more than about 3 hours drive from the coast. We have no accessible trails to ride. A very different life from much of the US. We do however have a national power grid, so Offshore power is put into the UK wide grid, as does Solar, Nuclear, Hydro power and Gas and we are actively encouraged to generate our own power (wind or solar) feed it back to the grid and get paid for it. I gather the US is very different. Oh and we have no coal power stations now. But we dont have to drive 80 miles to the supermarket. We share a language but live in very different ways. I worked in flood risk management for close on 20 years and even in that short time we saw dramatic changes. With so many of our population at risk of coastal and river flooding, and an increasing frequency of very major flooding, climate change is a reality for many of us here. In fact we all end up paying the costs of such things. People here are definitely more in tune with our changing world. This year EVs out sold DIesel vehicles for the first time ever. All makers will be selling mostly EVs in less than 5 years. But back to my original question. What would you need to consider a shift to an electric EV, forget the claims and counter claims. Is low running costs, limited maintenance, no exhaust fumes or noise something that would be an advantage.?

Thank you Travis, thats a really interesting insight into what people think. Its also useful to perhaps address some of the points. Dont rely on here say, its often not well informed. As we move forward the Li ion battery will become the mainstay of all EVs, and they have a lifespan in complete charges , ie virtually empty to virtually full of something like 4000 cycles. Some cheaper versions like Lifepo4 may have half that. Partial charges extend the life considerably. One OEM company I have worked with has vehicles using the Li ion Cell blocks I use, that have passed the 300000Km mark. A taxi I had a ride in in Amsterdam works the airport route 24/7 , a Tesla, its 18months old and already passed 200000km. So achieving 1000 hours of use really isnt a problem. I have a number of owners who use their Polaris rangers and were killing a set of lead acid in around 2 years . Thats probably heading towards around 500 hours of use. Now they have shifted to Li ion and already well past the 2 year stage. As many people who use these vehicles in the UK also have Solar PV systems on their properties (They feed the grid and get paid for it) they effectively get the power for nothing. But even if you pay for the electricity at an average of £0.2 /kwh (most pay considerably less) then that equates to around £0.04 per mile or less. Here petrol (Gas) costs £6.5 per 5 ltrs and rising daily. In Automobile terms ,the energy cost of producing gas is around the equivalent of being able to drive around 25miles in an EV, thats the energy cost of production . the energy used to refine one US gallon of fuel. The weight issue is interesting, back to Rangers, if we shift to Li ion from Lead acid we lose over 160kg of weight , but gain around 50% extra range over lead acid. The motor weighs around 30kg and the Li ion pack around 100kg. There is no gearbox so weight is lost there as well. fully charged makes no difference. If you have 20ltrs of fuel then thats about 20kg of weight. its no longer such a big issue. On the cobalt front, its a few grams used in only some of the battery chemistry. Cobalt is heavily used in the petro chemical industry as well as in many of the steels and alloy components. Its just convenient for some who wish to rubbish EVs to forget about such things. Reality is very inconvenient. Some countries do have some really awful cobalt mines, but industry and the public have not worried about it in the past. Most cobalt does not come from such clearly bad places. The production of Diamond however is however mostly reliant on very low wage economies, but that doesnt stop the sale or concerns on that front. Its all about what you what to portray and how you wish to see the world. Cobalt is used to increase the energy denist, ie more charge for a given volume of cell. I dont understand the " 5 pounds of raw earth per mile" point. Could you explain that please. The recycling of Li ion batteries is moving forward, its not good at the moment. Mainly because the volumes have been so small so far that people havnt seen how they can make money from it. Thats changing. But put that into perspective. The bulk of a li ion battery is aluminium and copper foil. A thin layer (think photocopy black print) of carbon in which is a small % of lithium and the other compounds. That can be recovered, and gives the bulk of the value. Its interesting that you appear to be saying that countries like the US simply ship their waste abroad. Thats been banned for some time in Europe, we can only hope that the US will deal with its waste at home. The originator of Tesla , JB Straubel is going out in a big scale to develop li Ion recycling technologies and equipment. Stuff generally goes to landfill because people wont pay the cost of proper disposal. Thats their choice. Again that phrase is one we keep coming back to. Choice. But choice needs to have people willing to understand the issue and not rely on here say. We should all take some responsibility to pass through life and understand the world, unfortunately we tend to only listen to those re-enforcing the views we already have. Thats a challenge in life in general, not just EV v ICE. As to burning batteries, on EVs it makes great news to show a burning TESLA, but not good news to show the hundreds of conventional fueled vehicles that burn every day. That is also changing as curiously its the cobalt in the cells that causes the burn. In the chemistry that doesnt use Cobalt, and there are loads that dont , (lifepo4) they dont ignite. They do get hot they do melt plastic they do give of huge amounts of vapour. But lifepo4 dont burn. Thanks for taking the time to comment, and keep enjoying repairing your internal combustion engines. They will be with you for many years to come. Out of interest what is the cost of a replacement engine in an average UTV? 1000 even 2000 hours is a really short lifespan.

What would you need from a UTV to make you go electric? We have the likes of The ranger EV and the Hisun E1, which when coupled with Li ion packs actually do what many people want. Im in the UK and here the UTV market is mostly for Landowners and Farmers, who use them as work vehicles, . We dont have the same leisure market as the US. But with world markets, we only get what will sell in the US. In the same way the market for lift kits is small as are non utility extras. So what would you need from an Electric UTV to encourage you to change from Petrol or Diesel? Some thoughts, Reliability, virtually no drive train maintenance, No drive belt change,. No clutches. Lack of exhaust fumes. Virtually no noise. Instant response. The power source available in virtually every garage . No more filling up cans of fuel. And of course saving the Planet, mustnt forget that. But seriously what would you need to enable you to make the shift. How many hours a day do you run, how many miles, what implements do you use? Throw it all in.

Never take a 12v tap off the main traction pack. However tempting that may be. If you tap off from a single battery (or two on the Hisuns 6v batteries) that 12v battery (6v batteries) will end up at a lower state of charge than the rest of the pack. This will then impact on the way the vehicle drives , as that lower voltage battery (ies) will reduce the overall performance. Unless you then do significant over charging (All batteries will then get hot) they will never get re balanced again. And excessive overcharging will cause damage to all the traction pack batteries. Anything attached to the 12v battery or accessory should have its own fuse. As a guide dont put anything on that pulls more than 10a without talking to the dealer as how best to do that. Especially if the vehicle is still under warranty.

The fault code is a fan problem. Firstly check there is no debris stuck in the fan. Dont just poke the fan, if there is debris, then you need to clear it all out, otherwise the fault will just return. The next fault I have dealt with was because the connection block (top left as you look at the charger) was full of mud and dirt. Pull out the mains plug or ensure the charge lead is unplugged. Remove the cover, two torx screws. Pull the cover forward. Dont put anything in the crud yet. The two large wires are attached to the battery. Short them and you will cause some damage. You could disconnect the main battery connections if you are unsure. So only excavate using a small plastic item, slowly and gently clear the muck out, use an air line with low pressure, a small brush may help. or a plastic ended vacuum cleaner nozzle (Tape a piece of plastic garden hose into the vacuum cleaner nozzle)When all is clear you will see the small wires entering the junction box from the right these are the fan wires. They are polarity conscious. So take a photo or note which wire goes where. Now with a set of long nose pliers pull off the spade terminals, do not pull the wires. I found that the spade terminals were not clean and ended up replacing the female connectors on the leads. The negative was however oxidised, so you have to clean that off. I use a scotch bright pad or very fine sand paper. You will find this easier to do with the fan out. But thats a bit more work to get the cover off and the fan out. The original connectors were crimped and soldered. I repeated that. Dont use insulated crimps as the electrical contact may be poor and the oxidisation insufficiently removed. The std crimp is a better all round crimp rather than the insulated which is really a two side squash. Before you reconnect the fan test it with a 12v supply. (note the polarity again). WIth the connectors off the spade terminals, try and clean them. A non metallic nail sanding strip/file can be useful. Clean the inside of the plastic cover before you put it back. Test. hopefully all is good. If not then its a service time with the DeltaQ charger. The photos show some of the problems with dirt in the charger.

Any update on this?

Take the time to change the m6 horrid cross head screws that hold the side panels underneath. Once the head is unusable, having the nice dome head you cant grip them to undo. I have had to cut flats on either side to get them out, I change these for m6 screws with either flange heads or larger washers. Do it while you can you wont regret it. Same with the awful m6 8mm head bolts on the under pan.