Greg Kilgore

Amen brother!

Well, wife and I went for a ride the other day. She got a little chilly. I stopped and threw the valves so the heater core was open and the bypass was off. About 5 minutes later. The temp idiot light came on but the gauge showed it wasn't over heating. So I quickly pulled over. Turned off heater core and turned the bypass back on. Less than a minute the temp light went off. Tried again and same thing. So I left the heater core off and bypass on and came on to the house. Then today was checking a few things out. And remembered what Joe Breaux said about the bleed screw at the top of cylinder head. Sure enough there was air there. After burping the thing a few times while running with bypass off and heater core on. It idled fine not over heating. Putting out good heat for about an hour or so. Turned off for 30ish minutes. Started back up. Within 5 minutes the temp idiot back on. A few revs and it went off. So I'm guessing there's more air around the gooseneck for the head. Guess I'm going the have to let it run, then burp, then off, let cool, burp, run to operating temp, burp, cool, repeat. Until I get no air.

Agree with this. Rebuilt from local, reputable shop is good for local economy and you get better workmanship 99.99% of the time. 10 or more years ago, was needing a replacement alternator for car. After getting 3 or 4 from auto parts store that didn't last 1-2 months. Thankfully they had 6 month warranty. The last one I got, I took straight to the rebuild shop. Cost an additional $50 but lasted until I sold the car 2 years later.

Absolutely. Just a little here and a little there. And work the problem (if) when they appear.

Glad to hear your machine is doing good for you. Enjoy and just keep the dirty side down.

Just like an old car or truck PCV valve. PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation Basically any gasses that blow-by the piston rings into the crank case need a place to go. So the PCV valve (one-way check valve) let the gasses out but doesn't allow any in. Usually a hose runs from PCV valve to breather and sent back into combustion chamber. Since the gasses are in the crankcase some oil may be pulled up as well. Or it could be something else. Just a thought. Home this helps and good luck with the repair. Kilgore.

Probably too late. But I just installed a cab heater on my Axis 500 that uses hot coolant and a heater core. Just like a car/truck does. The radiator hoses are 7/8" and the barbed PEX 1" fittings fit pretty good.

Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it. I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans. If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. Plumbing parts list. 10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size. 2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee 1 3/4" PEX ball valve 1 1" PEX ball valve 5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over. I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely. They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving. The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon. Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater. The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees Wide view of the plumbing. The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it. I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system. Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try. Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months Kilgore.

The nasty fluid during 1st bleeding only. And was OEM fluid. Machine was manufactured Dec 2021 purchased in June 2022. About 2500 miles at the time I bleed the system. Got about 3500 miles now. Probably was contaminated from get go. Thanks for suggesting that and the complete flush. Hadn't thought about that or flushing the system. But will now. I'll keep y'all updated.

The admin need to remove that stuff. Or charge ad space. Hell they're enough ads here already. What's another 100 going to do. There was something about a OF ad or link or something. But no url. And I did report that.

Haven't had any issues on my 500. Got about 3500 miles on it in 2 years. I haven't replaced anything dealing with the CVT belt, clutch, bearing or anything on the Axis. I have replaced all items mentioned on a CFMoto UForce machine. No big deal. Just have to drain oil and refill. So if you do decide to change the bearing. Might as well get the stuff to do oil change as well. The bearing, from what I can find out, is supposed to help hold the machine back or stop when letting off the gas. I've heard the machine can be operated without the bearing. It will just not hold itself back when going down hill or letting off the gas. Don't take this as gospel, but that's what I found out. And if the bearing is installed backwards it can make a fuss as well. Possible it was installed backwards from the factory. Don't know. Let's us know how this turns out and what you do. Have a good one.

This started back in the summer. While on a ride with the wife. Applied the foot brake and the pedal went to the floor. Thought the brake pads were gone. Ordered new pads. Removed the wheels to install new pads and they were in good shape. So I bled all 4 brakes cylinders. Got thin dirty fluid out. Almost like dirty water. No air. Got a good pedal. Then about a month later, same thing, brake pedal back on the floor. Could pump the pedal and get a little pedal back. Bled again and finally got a good pedal. The fluid was nasty like before. No air. And the fluid was topped off in the reservoir before I started the bleeding process. Now same thing. Pedal going back to the floor. Reservoir still full. I'm thinking the master cylinder is bypassing. So have a new on on the way and will report back. What do you guys think. Could it be something else. I used one of those hand operated vacuum pumps to pull the fluid out of the reservoir when I was bleeding before. First time I've used one. And after a small amount of fluid filled the catch bottle. Seemed like the vacuum pump quit working. Had to close the bleed screw. Pump the brake one time. The start the vacuum thing again. Again just wondering what you guys think. Using DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid. Whatever I can get at a reasonable price at parts store.

Need an update on the issue. Others mention the seat belt switch. I'm just guessing you bought this new and it just started doing this. So I guessing you know about the seat belt safety. BUT if the wires for the seatbelt safety switch has issues, a short or open in the wires. Even if you have the seat belt connected the ECU would "think" that it wasn't because the safety switch wasn't reporting it was. You may want to trace the wires for the seatbelt safety switch and make sure they aren't shorted or broke into, aka open.

Download the shop manual. Check the wiring schematic. Start tracing wires and checking the connectors in them.

As Joe asked, if it's just a recent development, could be a valve lashing issue.

Well as usual, my numbers were wrong. LOL I forgot to mention in last post, the relay for light bar has a fuse before it connects to the battery. Got to protect circuits. Sxs sat for a week. Started after fuel pump kicked off. Reading 13.9 volts. With low beams 13 volts at idle. With high beams(includes light bar.) 12.4 volts at idle. With high beams and 3200 rpm traveling. 13.3 volts. When temp got up to 174° and fan kicked on, with high beams, and 3200ish rpm traveling. 12.3 volts I've been thinking about contacting the motorcycle doctor and inquiring about the high output voltage regulator he has on his website. But don't know if I'd have to upgrade the stator. Been thinking adding a 2nd battery. Deep cycle or deep cycle starting battery under drivers seat. But currently using that area for storage for jackets, tools, and the all important TP if we have to hit the bushes. I also have a fan strapped to the top of roll cage. Pointing down into the cab. During hot rides can turn on and cool down. I don't run it on night rides. Cause the light bar, cab fan, and radiator fan would draw way too many amps if all on at same time. I need to change the incandescent factory headlights to LED headlights. That would help save some amps on night rides. Also want to install a stereo so upgrading the charging system is definitely going to have to happen.

I've got light bar on my Axis 500. Wired it on a relay. The main hot for relay of course goes to battery. The activate wire for relay goes to high beam of headlights. That way I don't blind on coming traffic. Just hit the low beam and light bar is off. High beam light bar is on. It's a Nilight 13" (I think) bar. Came with 2 4" lights also. But haven't got them installed. As far as voltage goes. The voltage stays good 13.7-14 running down the road. Does drop to 12ish at idle. We ( wife and I) are fixing to take a ride right now and I'll double check my numbers.

Was at Lowe's over the weekend. The wife and I seen they have a new Axis 550. That thing is sharp. Has a complete door. Speakers in door. Bigger engine. Bench seats. New styling all the way around. Looks to be more air tight than my 2022 model. I really like the looks but $10k is out of my price range for now. Unless I could sell mine. And the resale on the Axis 500 is nothing. Went to the local wally world today. See a 4 person Polaris General 1000 on the back of a trailer. That Polaris looked exactly like a stretched version of the Axis 550. Even down to the vents in the windshield. Just wondering if anyone can confirm or deny the Axis 550 is a copy of the Polaris?

Could try this. Simple and easy to do. Make sure the battery has a good charge. Since you've been trying to start with no luck. I'd charge overnight with a 2 amp trickle charger. Then. Reset the ECU. Easy to do. At times, my machine is hard to start and I have to hold down the throttle a little to get started. I reset the ECU and I'm good for 1-3 months. With the machine off. 1. Turn machine on but don't try to start. Just so the fuel pump kicks on. Leave key on until fuel pump builds up pressure and kicks off. 2. Cycle the key off and on 5 times within 30 seconds. Make sure the fuel pumps runs each time. 3. After the 5th time in on position. Turn back off and wait 30-60 seconds. 4. Turn key on. Wait for fuel pump to kick off. Try and start machine.

Is this the same fuse going to ECU and fuel pump? If you have checked and found nothing bare or touching. It could be a fuel pump going bad or a bad ground. Causing the pump to pull more amps to try and make the circuit. I don't know the steps to test. But YouTube or a Google search should show how to test amp draw on a circuit. Best of luck

When I made the post you quoted, it had to be approved. Maybe the link? Maybe setup if a link in posted the Admin has to make sure it's not an outside post? IDK Was it detergent oil? But that oil froth is interesting. Good to know.

Well that is what I thought as well, overfilling was a bad thing. But they sell those extension tubes. To allow more oil to be added to the crank case. I've even heard of them being installed on brand-r-new machines straight from the dealer. These guys are talking about the added oil and extension tube.

Right, but figured it wasn't completely airlocked. Thought there may have been some coolant circulation. I know on the Axis 500 (different I know) there is a sending unit in the radiator. That the only one I know of. And coot said the radiator fan kicked on. So there should have been some circulation. But maybe not.

Cootupnorth, Need to start your on thread. Don't highjack somebody else's. With that said. I'd get a infrared thermal readers and see what it reads. Could just be a bad sensor. I put a digital temp gauge on Axis 500. They make a sleeve of a thing that can go online with the radiator hose. It has an opening to insert a sending unit. Can then install a digital or manual temp gauge and not have to rely on trying to determine what a bar graph might be trying to tell you. And you can leave the OEM sender in place for the computer to do its thing. And if needed replace the OEM sender with a new one if it's bad. Brent4a, Just keep bleeding with the radiator/front end jacked up as best ya can. Hope you don't have to replace head gasket again either. Good luck.

Like chase said I don't know, not familiar with those either. But if it has an internal wet oil bathed clutch. Be sure you use a oil designed for motor cycle or atu/UTV clutches. As far as oil weight. Should be able to find that info in the owners manual. Or maybe use 10w30 or 10w40. The 1st number, 10 means both oil weights are the same thickness in cold temps. The 2nd number 30 or 40 is the thickness when they get hot. And the 40 is thicker than the 30. I made the mistake and put 10w30 in my blazer and it knocked for about 5 minutes until the engine warmed up. Immediately drained and put the recommended 5w30 in and had no trouble. 5 is thinner than 10 cold and I guess the tolerances were too tight for the 10w30 when engine was cold. Kept that blazer for another 10 or so years after that. Some people say don't use synthetic oil with wet clutches some say it's fine. Personally I won't use synthetic oil in anything. But to each his own I guess. But if it is an oil bathed clutch it will definitely need oil formulated for wet clutches. And welcome to the site.