Greg Kilgore

I've got bubble coming up in the overflow bottle. Not Alka Seltzer. But I have got a steady 1/4 inch bubbles coming up about 2 bubbles a second.

Exactly, just didn't put it as you did. Didn't know about the gas tester. I'll see if the parts store has something. Thanks. I've used the radiator pressure tester from auto parts before on my GMC truck. So I should get it again and test the Axis. I have checked. Can't be in two places at the same time. I'm good but not that good. LOL I'll have the put something on the gas pedal and watch. I didn't get the wife come out and hold the gas or anything. I'm afraid of what she would've hit with when I told her that the sxs was messed up. Riding around these side roads is about the only pleasure she gets. Doesn't say much about me does it. LOL There could be a bubble but not likely. Just today I used a clamp. Clamped off the hose coming from the goose neck. Opened the bleed screw at goose neck. Just in case there was a bubble that way like you said. And the coolant still came out. Got to laugh about it to keep from crying. Was no coolant in the combustion chamber when I took out spark plug. The paper towel came out clean. I also disconnected the fuel pump and cranked and nothing came out while cranking. I've got it running now with the ball valve for the heater off and the regular coolant hose on. So far all seem good No idiot light. The temp gauge say the the temp is good. Fan turn on at 175 and off at 165 according the gauge I installed on the radiator hose.

Get big bubble in radiator with cap off. It's in the video. I don't think it builds up the pressure to come past the cap. But I'll check in a few and report back. Thanks.

I got 120lbs that then bled down to 105 in 15 minutes of sitting. I get air bubbles bubbling up in the radiator while the engine is running. The Idiot temp light on dash came on after I installed the cab heater and refilled the radiator (thought I had all air out). Has done that a few times but was able to rev engine a few times and it went off while riding 3 days after the heater was installed. I bleed the coolant system at the bleed screw on the goose neck at the head. Until coolant start to come out. Then run the engine. Then watch the bubbles come to the top of the radiator fill opening. That is shown in the video. I may have some blow by but not a lot. No I don't think so. Can't hear or fill anything. Guess I could use soapy water to make sure. But the head is nice and dusty. I'm getting something bubbling of the radiator with cap off. Guess I could hold a lighter there and see if I get an increase in flame when bubbles pop to see if fuel is present. The bubbling is seen in video. When I open radiator cap when it has been setting for a day or two. There is pressure present. And the radiator is full. No drop nor increase as far as I can tell. I'll check here in a few. I topped off the overflow jug when I added that cab heater. I should drain it back to normal and monitor. No change color. No oil floating. Thanks I'll need it. I'm currently giving it the twice over. Been setting a week or so. Radiator topped off. Air at goose neck. I'm pulling the spark plug. Going to stick a white paper towel in and see what come out. Post after.

Thanks for the input. I have the know-how, (with some help, hopefully, from this forum and YT if I have trouble). Don't have a enclosed work space. And it's winter. So I'll probably have to send to a shop. The closest authorized shop is 3ish hours away and a 2 month wait. May see if any shop is willing to work on it. Didn't have any issues until I installed that heater. Then it got hot enough to turn on idiot temp light on dash. Because I didn't bleed where coolant line comes out of the head. Just wondering if I should remove the heater. The heater pipes are about 16mm and the radiator hoses are about 22mm. And the way I plumed the thing was to force all the coolant through the heater, but also left a heater bypass. Hand controlled by ball valves. Either way the wife blames me for f-ing around with it. LOL Every married man knows how that goes. Got a sign in the yard that says "Property Protected by PMS Security System". LOL Any way may have to restore coolant system back to stock or build something that will allow the same flow and still go through the heater. I don't know. Anybody have any input.

Just want to stress the importance of bleeding that coolant system if you cut any hoses. Be sure to bleed the system good. Having the front raised off the ground will help. I think I blew a head gasket on mine. By not bleeding directly after opening the coolant system.

Glad you figured it out and got it fixed. Did you make that video? If so, or if not, doesn't matter either way, I have beard envy. 😂 Glad you got it going. And have a Merry Christmas and a Happy Hangover.

I'm 99.9% sure head gasket is blown. Don't have coolant in oil. That a good thing. But think coolant is getting in combustion chamber. I did compression test. Got 120psi walked away. Came back to 105psi 15 minutes later. How hard is it to replace? https://youtu.be/N31mOtOPuKI?si=nSnuF4-weRU2T10t Advise?

Fingers, toes, and eyes crossed. 😂

Hate to hear about your son's condition. I hope all goes well for y'all. I got a $50 heater a year ago and just installed in my 2021 Axis 500. Here is the link on my install. www.utvboard.com/topic/51705-heater-installed-2021-axis-500/ If you do yourself, you will probably have to burp the coolant line on top of the engine to get all the air out of the coolant system after the install. There is a bleed screw on top of the "goose neck" that comes out of the engine. I had to do mine about 5 times to get all the air out. That's once a day over 5 days. Each day before the wife and I went for a ride. Good luck. Let us know how it goes and welcome to the forum.

I'd still try the on/off cycle thing first. If that doesn't work the full throttle thing is an option as long as the rev limiter works. You could try to put machine in reverse and see how fast it go backwards. My axis 500 will only do about 8 mph due to the rev limiter works on my Axis 500. If you're doesn't go above 10 or so, I'd guess 99% that the rev limiter works and your machine won't blow up. But again I can't be 100% sure. So do AT YOUR OWN RISK. Check with others. Check on the motor cycle doctor website. There may be a contact number to call and ask an actual mechanic about it. He may charge for a phone consult. I don't know. But even if he does, it will be cheaper than replacing or rebuilding an engine. Then post so others may be in the same situation. Good luck.

Anyway I'll quit posting and wait for a reply. Later, Kilgore.

Also to find manuals and so on. At the very top of this site click on the 3 bars on the top right side. In the menu that appears, click on downloads. On the downloads screen, in the selector box there it says "category " select "Hisun".(or what manufacturer) Once the screen changes, select the manual(s) you wish.

From what I could tell from the video. The guy just adjusted the shift rod, gear selector, and the indicator light to be lit for whatever gear the transmission was actually it. And not adjusting the actual transmission for the shifter. If that makes any sense. In other words he had the transmission shifted into high, then moved the shifter itself into high before loosening the shift rod to adjust the high lamp indicator to be lit. In doing so, he may have actually changed the position of the transmission into low or neutral. If so, the transmission could have been in low, for example and the shifter and indicator light could have indicated high. Make sense? I'd still remove the shift rod, then make sure the transmission shift easily into low, high, neutral, and reverse. You may need to rock the machine forward and/or backward just a little. And make sure there is not a lot of slop/slack in between the positions. Then move the transmission into reverse (or low), then move the gear shift handle into reverse (or low), then eyeball and adjust the shift rod to fit into the location. Then adjust the rod length to make sure the correct directional indicator lamp is lit. Then move the selector into the other positions and adjust the rod as needed. I haven't looked at mine and the diagram doesn't say. But I'd bet the shift indicator selector switch is located somewhere near the shift selector handle. Does any of this makes sense? I'm not a mechanic, so take the advice as someone that is just trying to help. Remember listen to me at your own risk. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

There is an actual service manual for these machines on this site. Can't remember who posted, the name, or download link. But search the manual library and you can find it. Here are some diagrams. 0 (The items numbers are off according to the description on 261 and 262) I didn't view the posted video. If it was me, after following the directions above to adjust the linkage and still was having issues. I'd completely disconnect the adjustment rod. (Item 5 on page 261.) Then check item 7 and item 9 on page 261 to make sure item 7 is engaged cause it looks like item 7 has a oblong slot that fits around the shift lever 1 assembly circuled in red in red in bottom picture (cover removed). That actually shifts transmission. Item 9 is the nut that holds item 7 in place. Then see if the transmission will shift into a forward gear by moving item 7 by hand instead of the shift handle. If so, then reattach the shift rod and adjust accordingly. When I shift my 500 into low, I have to apply just a little throttle to make the transition. I probably need to adjust my shift rod as well. Hope this helps some or at least points you in the right direction to resolve your issue. I'll watch the link and repost if I think of something else. I'm not a mechanic, so take the advice as someone that is just trying to help. Remember listen to me at your own risk. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Have you checked the cable adjustment. When shifter is in neutral, is the neutral light lit on dash. And is the trans actually in neutral. Same question for reverse? How far does the shifter move when trying to go from neutral to forward. I'm sure you are pressing the brake when trying to shift into a forward gear.

I've seen those advertise on the net. Seen a guy on YT that installed one. He said they work. But like you, I would like to hear from others before I installed. They are kinda expensive. There's a writeup here on how to get into the ECU to read codes and get the engine parameters (parts and software required). From my understanding the ECU also has flash memory that some parameters can be changed and saved. I haven't tried it. If you do let us all know how it goes. Good luck.

Just because your machine is a coleman it is made by Hisun. Just like the Massimo, (my) Axis, and others. The computer reset is the same. Hisun uses the delphi MT05 ECU. There is 2 ways. I like option 2. And should always wait for fuel pump to build up pressure and kick off before attempting to start engine Option 1 (From MotorCycleDoctor . Com) . Start machine. Leave it in park. Warm engine for at least 2 minuits. Hold throttle wide open for 5 seconds. The rev limiter will prevent it from blowing up the engine. Turn off engine for at least 15 seconds. Then start machine and allow the computer to re-learn the computer. Option 2. Start with the machine off. Turn keyswitch to on. Make sure the fuel pumps kicks on. Then turn the key back off. Do the on off thing 5 times within 30 seconds. Make sure the fuel pump kicks on each time. Once the 5th time off, leave off 30 seconds. Then start and allow computer to re-learn. ECU-Reset-5.pdf

I removed the oil drain plug from the bottom of engine. Then took the rubber hose off the metal hose that runs to the top of oil cooler in front of radiator. Then took a cheap 12V air compressor. The $10 kind that from the dollar general that plugs into 12V car cigarette lighter port. And the adapter that is used to air up a beach ball. To push out the old oil from the cooler. Once the oil is gone you can hear the gurgles from the drain hole. Don't really have to worry about any kind of air bubbles in the cooler. The oil pump will take care of that when running. Just reattach everything and fill to oil level, run engine checking for leaks, turn off and let sit for 5 minutes or so, check oil level again and add as needed. Suppose to check oil before every start anyway. And any air in cooler can escape into the crankcase.

Allen10, I think he ment it was dark out and couldn't tell if steam was coming from the exhaust or not. That's the way I read it anyway. Homeowner A Since it was bought 2nd or third hand and the oil was that nasty. You may want to completely remove all the liquid in the fuel tank. Just to make sure nothing stupid is in there. If this machine was a display model, where the public, (kids), could put anything anywhere might not be a bad idea. Could change the fuel filter, fuel injector ($20ish on Amazon), spark plug (I got the same as what was listed on OEM plug for my axis 500), and reset the computer. Then see how it acts. And hopefully all is good.

Could also do compression check. Once compression gauge is up. See if it leaks down and how long it takes to lose 10, or 20 psi. Write down the max and the drop over 10, 30, and 60 minutes. Report back. If just dirty oil, will need another oil change soon. Cause the lines and oil cooler in front of radiator still was full of that nasty oil. Not mentioned, but usually overheating is what causes head gasket issues. Best of luck.

Amen brother!

Well, wife and I went for a ride the other day. She got a little chilly. I stopped and threw the valves so the heater core was open and the bypass was off. About 5 minutes later. The temp idiot light came on but the gauge showed it wasn't over heating. So I quickly pulled over. Turned off heater core and turned the bypass back on. Less than a minute the temp light went off. Tried again and same thing. So I left the heater core off and bypass on and came on to the house. Then today was checking a few things out. And remembered what Joe Breaux said about the bleed screw at the top of cylinder head. Sure enough there was air there. After burping the thing a few times while running with bypass off and heater core on. It idled fine not over heating. Putting out good heat for about an hour or so. Turned off for 30ish minutes. Started back up. Within 5 minutes the temp idiot back on. A few revs and it went off. So I'm guessing there's more air around the gooseneck for the head. Guess I'm going the have to let it run, then burp, then off, let cool, burp, run to operating temp, burp, cool, repeat. Until I get no air.

Agree with this. Rebuilt from local, reputable shop is good for local economy and you get better workmanship 99.99% of the time. 10 or more years ago, was needing a replacement alternator for car. After getting 3 or 4 from auto parts store that didn't last 1-2 months. Thankfully they had 6 month warranty. The last one I got, I took straight to the rebuild shop. Cost an additional $50 but lasted until I sold the car 2 years later.

Absolutely. Just a little here and a little there. And work the problem (if) when they appear.