Greg Kilgore

Have you watched the driveshaft when this is happening. I have an Axis 500. And had the splines on the drive shaft bad and the cup on engine bad. Replaced both and have been great for almost a year. If not the drive shaft/cup, then I going to guess it is something inside the rear differential. As far as the video goes. It would be better to upload to YouTube. Set it to anyone with a link and post a link to it. I had to download and play with VLC to watch. Were you on a hard pull, level or going uphill when it 1st happen?

My 500 Axis about 2 years old and about 3200 miles. Have to check the hours. Have lived 90% of its miles on blacktop and gravel/hard pack roads. Not a lot of trails. Wife don't like them but I do. On blacktop I can hit 45 mph on level ground and about 4700 RPM on regular basis. Slight downhill grade have hit 50mph 5100 rpm. Low gear I've hit 35ish on blacktop 6700 rpm. Still on the 1st belt though it probably needs changed. Got a new one just haven't changed it. And could probably do a valve adjustment. Just haven't took the time. I did have to change the cup and rear drive shaft last November (I think).That was a pain. Had to bleed all 4 brakes last month. Need 4 tires but the Axis is still going good. I made a bottom plate. So I could put seats from a RZR in it. And made the driver side seat adjustable sliding front to back for wife's short legs. Added 4 points harness. Added temp and voltage gauges. Got an oil pressure gauge just haven't installed yet. Mac66, glad you were able to enjoy your machine out with the big boys. I started with the cheap muffs also. Then put a 3ft piece of 3/4 inch flex metal conduit on the end of muffler. That helped a little. Had to remove the exhaust in pieces from engine when I did the rear axle. When I put it back on it seemed quieter. Maybe when I put it back together I tightened up the bolts better. IDK. I've got plans to move the air intake from between the seats to under the hood. Using thin wall plastic conduit. (Like on newer rhinos). After that I plan on adding sound deading inside engine compartment and under the seats. I'll make a post when that is done. But sounds like you have a good one. Hope you enjoy it for a good long time. Just make sure you keep an eye on the oil. I also add about 1qt past full and it helps quiet the engine also.

I resemble that remark. 😂 😂

Ya know, for someone that came here looking for help and information on how to repair their machine and locate parts. THEN spit in the face of people trying to help. Isn't a very friendly thing to do. I couldn't give 2 shits if you fix this POS now. Sincerely An Eastern Kentucky HILLBILLY.

Glad you found the bolts/studs/information you need. May want to share the diameter and thread pitch with the rest of the community. In case someone else needs the info. Stainless is fun to drill. Personally, I wouldn't call Ace a good hardware store.

A BFH will fix it or fix it where it will never give you a problem again.

Make sure the one-way bearing is installed correctly.

Shouldn't double post. Take bolt to a good hardware store. Use the nut/bolt thread guild they usually have. Match up the bolt. Don't try and force it in the tool. Maybe www. Motor Cycle doctor .com may be able to help.

Yep, I'm looking.

Cool. Glad you figured it out. Could take battery to AZ. Have them charge and do a load test on the battery. Could be the start of a starter dragging. And the extra cranking amps of the bigger car battery compensated for it. Just for an extra peace of mind. Or just could have been a bad battery.

Since the linkage seems to be good. As T Fox asked, what is the RPM when trying to shift into gear while running. High RPM could be an issue. And at high RPM the clutch would be trying to engage/engaged also. Putting pressure on the shaft attached to the primary sheave. Trying to move the CVT belt. Making the secondary sheave engage. And the secondary sheave is attached to the shaft that turns gears in the transmission. And the clutch is in an oil bath also.

Check fuses they're in the battery compartment. Could also be the key switch.

I know her. 😂

BUCK, I have an Axis 500. I have no shift issues. Haven't changed anything with brake pedals. With engine running, I can go N to HI or LO with no brake LO to HI or N with no brake. LO, HI, or N to R have to have brake. R to N, HI or LO no brake. Start in any position with no brake. Don't shift to any gear rolling. I'd check the linkage on your father-in-law's machine.

X2 ⬆️ Or out of adjustment.

I know the Axis/Hisun manual says it has a low oil switch that will shut down that machine if it has low oil. And a pull start generator gave me a fit one cold day when electricity was off due to a storm. Because the oil change I did a month before. The oil was too thick when cold.

See below for fuse location and amperage. And where the fuse blew again 30 minutes later. I'd look at the wiring. and it looks like the ECU shares the fuel pump fuse. best of luck.

Well as usual I'm wrong. There is a pin that prevents it going into reverse unless the brake is applied. But didn't see anything about a separate switch on brake pedal for shifting. Could be the brake light switch has multiple purpose. I'd check it anyway just to make sure. And check the shift linkage. See pics below. Good luck.

There is a safety switch (I think) that is supposed to prevent you from shifting gears without having you foot on the brake. That switch is also supposed to prevent you from starting the machine in gear without having you foot on the brake. I'll take a quick look and see if I can locate where it is. I think it is by the brake light switch at the base of the brake pedal. Kinda like the switch that kill the engine of a riding mower if you get off the seat with the blades engaged or in gear and fall off.

Glad to hear you found PART of the problem. Reason I say part, is there is a reason that fuse blew. If the original fuse was 15 amp. And it worked for 2ish years then blew to protect the circuit. There is a short causing the fuse to blow. Hate to say it, but sounds like there is still something wrong. Something is causing the fuse to blow. If you don't find what that is. It may cost you a lot more in the future. You have narrowed it down. Now just trace down the wires in that circuit to make sure there are no chafed wires. I'd remove any tape or wire lume and inspect the wires themselves. Repair any bad spots. And put the original size fuse amperage back. Good luck. Glad I could help.

Was thinking. Dangerous I know. If it cranks but won't hit AND the display on dash isn't working also. I'd look for something common to both situation. Like fuse or key switch and such.

Could be something in the key switch shorting out and sending a kill signal. Could be a low oil level switch/sensor also. Could be bad coil. Could be bad fuse. In pages below main switch is the key switch. Q I got these pic/pages from a service manual in the download section. Hope something here helps.

Double check the battery cables, all power connections, check ground for solenoid, machine, and starter while you're at it. You can do a voltage drop test to make sure power cables are good. Almost like checking voltage on battery. Set multi-meter to DC voltage. To test positive cable from battery to solenoid. 1. Connect 1 probe (red) to positive of battery. 2. Connect other probe (black) where the cable connects to the solenoid. 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. Can check solenoid same way. 1. Leave red probe at positive of battery. 2. Move black probe to the cable going to the starter where it connects to the solenoid. 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. Check the cable going to starter the same way. 1. Move the red probe to the solenoid where the cable going to starter connects. 2. Move the black probe to where the cable connects to the starter. 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. Can check the ground in the same way. Just move the black probe to the negative side of battery. Move the red probe to the machine frame, where the negative cable attaches to the machine, or the starter housing. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. The voltage on meter will only display briefly. Anything greater than 0.5 volts indicates a bad connection in the section being tested. Best of luck. Let's us know what you find out.

Had a CFMoto, the CVT shredded and locked up the rear wheels. Doing 30ish on blacktop. Rolled onto drivers side. Me no seatbelt and wife strapped in. I didn't get a scratch (got very very lucky. Pulled arm in at last second) and wife was badly bruised from seatbelt. Installed 5-point harnesses on both driver and passenger on new Axis 500.

Mattdz86, I'm sure that is going to help somebody out. Great post. Great pics.