Greg Kilgore

Glad you found the bolts/studs/information you need. May want to share the diameter and thread pitch with the rest of the community. In case someone else needs the info. Stainless is fun to drill. Personally, I wouldn't call Ace a good hardware store.

A BFH will fix it or fix it where it will never give you a problem again.

Make sure the one-way bearing is installed correctly.

Shouldn't double post. Take bolt to a good hardware store. Use the nut/bolt thread guild they usually have. Match up the bolt. Don't try and force it in the tool. Maybe www. Motor Cycle doctor .com may be able to help.

Yep, I'm looking.

Cool. Glad you figured it out. Could take battery to AZ. Have them charge and do a load test on the battery. Could be the start of a starter dragging. And the extra cranking amps of the bigger car battery compensated for it. Just for an extra peace of mind. Or just could have been a bad battery.

Since the linkage seems to be good. As T Fox asked, what is the RPM when trying to shift into gear while running. High RPM could be an issue. And at high RPM the clutch would be trying to engage/engaged also. Putting pressure on the shaft attached to the primary sheave. Trying to move the CVT belt. Making the secondary sheave engage. And the secondary sheave is attached to the shaft that turns gears in the transmission. And the clutch is in an oil bath also.

Check fuses they're in the battery compartment. Could also be the key switch.

I know her. 😂

BUCK, I have an Axis 500. I have no shift issues. Haven't changed anything with brake pedals. With engine running, I can go N to HI or LO with no brake LO to HI or N with no brake. LO, HI, or N to R have to have brake. R to N, HI or LO no brake. Start in any position with no brake. Don't shift to any gear rolling. I'd check the linkage on your father-in-law's machine.

X2 ⬆️ Or out of adjustment.

I know the Axis/Hisun manual says it has a low oil switch that will shut down that machine if it has low oil. And a pull start generator gave me a fit one cold day when electricity was off due to a storm. Because the oil change I did a month before. The oil was too thick when cold.

See below for fuse location and amperage. And where the fuse blew again 30 minutes later. I'd look at the wiring. and it looks like the ECU shares the fuel pump fuse. best of luck.

Well as usual I'm wrong. There is a pin that prevents it going into reverse unless the brake is applied. But didn't see anything about a separate switch on brake pedal for shifting. Could be the brake light switch has multiple purpose. I'd check it anyway just to make sure. And check the shift linkage. See pics below. Good luck.

There is a safety switch (I think) that is supposed to prevent you from shifting gears without having you foot on the brake. That switch is also supposed to prevent you from starting the machine in gear without having you foot on the brake. I'll take a quick look and see if I can locate where it is. I think it is by the brake light switch at the base of the brake pedal. Kinda like the switch that kill the engine of a riding mower if you get off the seat with the blades engaged or in gear and fall off.

Glad to hear you found PART of the problem. Reason I say part, is there is a reason that fuse blew. If the original fuse was 15 amp. And it worked for 2ish years then blew to protect the circuit. There is a short causing the fuse to blow. Hate to say it, but sounds like there is still something wrong. Something is causing the fuse to blow. If you don't find what that is. It may cost you a lot more in the future. You have narrowed it down. Now just trace down the wires in that circuit to make sure there are no chafed wires. I'd remove any tape or wire lume and inspect the wires themselves. Repair any bad spots. And put the original size fuse amperage back. Good luck. Glad I could help.

Was thinking. Dangerous I know. If it cranks but won't hit AND the display on dash isn't working also. I'd look for something common to both situation. Like fuse or key switch and such.

Could be something in the key switch shorting out and sending a kill signal. Could be a low oil level switch/sensor also. Could be bad coil. Could be bad fuse. In pages below main switch is the key switch. Q I got these pic/pages from a service manual in the download section. Hope something here helps.

Double check the battery cables, all power connections, check ground for solenoid, machine, and starter while you're at it. You can do a voltage drop test to make sure power cables are good. Almost like checking voltage on battery. Set multi-meter to DC voltage. To test positive cable from battery to solenoid. 1. Connect 1 probe (red) to positive of battery. 2. Connect other probe (black) where the cable connects to the solenoid. 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. Can check solenoid same way. 1. Leave red probe at positive of battery. 2. Move black probe to the cable going to the starter where it connects to the solenoid. 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. Check the cable going to starter the same way. 1. Move the red probe to the solenoid where the cable going to starter connects. 2. Move the black probe to where the cable connects to the starter. 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. Can check the ground in the same way. Just move the black probe to the negative side of battery. Move the red probe to the machine frame, where the negative cable attaches to the machine, or the starter housing. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. The voltage on meter will only display briefly. Anything greater than 0.5 volts indicates a bad connection in the section being tested. Best of luck. Let's us know what you find out.

Had a CFMoto, the CVT shredded and locked up the rear wheels. Doing 30ish on blacktop. Rolled onto drivers side. Me no seatbelt and wife strapped in. I didn't get a scratch (got very very lucky. Pulled arm in at last second) and wife was badly bruised from seatbelt. Installed 5-point harnesses on both driver and passenger on new Axis 500.

Mattdz86, I'm sure that is going to help somebody out. Great post. Great pics.

I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can. I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job. Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good. But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy. Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.

I did a few times. Once when on a HARD pull in high range. (I'm not calling it a transmission any longer with high and low gear cause the CVT system changes the "gear". I'm calling it a "transfer" case with high and low range.) But put it in low and had no trouble. Lately been having more and more slipping but I've got almost 3000 miles on my Axis in 2 years. Did you clean the sheaves good. Then scuff them a little with a green brillo pad. Check YouTube for cleaning any CVT belt system and they will have it on there. I'm going to have to get another belt here soon and do a change on mine.

As far as I know the oils that need changed is 1. Engine oil which also lubes the "transmission" 2. The front differential 3. The real differential. When changing the engine oil, I took the top hose off the oil cooler and used cheap, low pressure tire inflator (12v that plugs into cigarette socket) to blow the oil back through the lines. Then out the oil drain plug. It takes just a little more oil when changing. But 99% ( + - ) of the old oil is removed from the machine when changing oil.

Couldn't tell a lot from video. Did sound like a little bit of a miss. In the dark check to see if the plug wire is arcing. Check connections for coil and spark plug. Maybe check and re-gap the spark plug. Good luck and keep us informed.