Greg Kilgore

Possibly the one-way bearing is slipping or warn. That is what hold the machine back.

There should be a rubber O-ring around the fuel pump. Between the fuel pump and tank. Put a little grease around the O-ring. That will help the ring turn to lock. Yes it should be a little hard to turn since you have to compress that O-ring. Once you get the ring started in the locking tabs. Get a brass hammer or solid rubber hammer. If needed you can use a brass punch against the ring. And tap with the brass or rubber hammer. Reason for rubber or brass is those material don't cause sparks. You don't want sparks around the fuel pump or fuel tank. Let us know how it goes for you. Send pics. Greg

I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter. 1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter. And an electric temp gauge. Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow. I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.) Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door. The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it. The voltage gauge . Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.

I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter. 1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter. And an electric temp gauge. Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow. I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.) Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door. The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it. The voltage gauge . Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.

Well I installed this variable speed switch to control one fan. It has a hard off position and variable stages of on. I don't think the Axis charge system can handle the power needs of 2 of the fans that I installed. Without some sort of upgrade to the charging system. I tapped into the positive and negative wires that feed the 12v power port on the dash. That way I'd be sure not to accidentally leave the fan on when the machine is off . The switch is installed to the left of the steering wheel. Think I'm going to modify the dual fan and just have one fan in the center OR upgrade the the charge system. But it's getting cooler now and "Winter is coming". So a cab enclosure/doors and the heater is next on the list. And finishing the fans will be a spring project.

Here is a post I made about the cfmoto over on their forum. Can see what could happen if the cvt belt gets wrapped around the sheaves https://cfmoto-forum.com/uforce-600/2013-uforce-transmission-locked-up/

Clean the sheaves with soap and water. Then lightly scuff the sides with a brillo pad. Watch a few YouTube videos on replacing the cvt belt. Doesn't have to be same model or same machine. You are just wanting a general look at how to clean up the sheaves. Replaced the clutch 2 times on a cfmoto 600 uforce. Once just ofter I purchased the used machine. Then 8 months later after a catastrophic cvt belt failure flipped me and the wife on its side do8ng about 30mph down the highway. The belt came apart in pieces and chunks and wrapped around the sheaves. Locking the transmission/rear wheels. Then we went sliding down the blacktop. I turned the steering wheel to ease off the highway onto a grass area. Then we flipped on the driver side. Just some bruises and a few scratches. Nothing serious. After getting machine back on its wheels was able to put in neutral and push around. Then called brother-in-law to bring a trailer and load. Repaired the machine and sold at wife's request. Then got a Axis 500. Same cvt belt setup. But in her mind it hadn't tried to kill us. Lol Look at a diy tool for the secondary sheave for a cfmoto. There's a lot of guys that a tool for adjusting the clocking to remove the HD spring. I'm not familiar with your setup. But most are similar. There is a lot of force under that spring. Becareful that spring can seriously hurt or kill you. Also when I got the new Axis I put on a 5-point harness simply because the cfmoto flipped us and the lap belt wasn't enough to keep the wife from getting hurt.

The after market 2nd muffler is $$$. If you don't mind dumpster diving. Run by a new construction site. I'm sure you could find a piece of flex in the dumpster the sparkies threw out. That's what I did.

I'm no expert by any means. But I'm 99.9% sure that there should be no where near that much grease inside the Primary sheave area. From what I've seen. There should only be grease on the plastic pieces that fit over the opening on the roller plate. Where the plastic pieces meet the wall of the sheave. Where the red is in your pic below. Reason for only minimum grease. That gets belt gets HOT. If a lot of grease then it could liquify and get all over the belt. That would cause the belt to slip. Even water will cause the belt to slip. As you know the rollers are weights. The weights roll to the outside. Making the outer part of sheave move in. Making the belt ride higher. From reading other sites. A gram of weight per roller makes a big difference. Motor cycle dr should have replacement parts for that machine. Or ever upgraded slider setups. But on the good side. People buy shims to put between the sheave and sheave nut. To make the belt ride a little lower. It does subtract from the top end. But puts a little more pulling power to the rear wheels. Hope your ride goes well. And be careful with the cvt belts. Had a cvt belt had a catastrophic failure on me and the wife. Belt wrapped around the main and secondary sheaves. Locked the rear end. We sent sliding down the blacktop. We landed on the driverside on edge of road. Got very lucky. Belt was barely a year old. The threads just came lose from the rubber. It wasn't a Hisun product but a 2013 CFmoto Uforce. But still same basic setup.

Just a FYI while we're talking about the exhaust. I had to replace the rear driveshaft on my Axis. Removed the exhaust completely, in sections. When I put everything back together. It was quieter than before. Then I took a 3ft scrap piece of 1" metal flex conduit from the job site. Stuck it on the end of the muffler. Just used bailing wire to secure under the bed toward the tailgate. Then a long the underside of tail gate until I ran out of flex conduit. Made a big difference in noise out the back. Even helped some in the cab. Don't use the weather tight flex. It WILL MELT. The metal flex will act as a baffle. And I don't think it adds any back pressure. If it does, it couldn't be much.

Try reseting the computer. 1. Begin with the key in the off position. 2. Cycle the key to run and then the off position 5 times within 30 seconds. But do not start the engine. Make sure the fuel pump start. Before turning back off. 3. After the 5th on. Turn the key off and leave off at least 30 seconds. That will reset the computer. I have had to do this to my Axis every now and then. I probably need to install a new injector and clean the MAF sensor. I have changed the fuel filter already. The OEM filter was clogged with paint chips from the factory.

Could have tried to loosen the exhaust. Then adjust the exhaust up and out of the way. You may want to look at the drive shaft bearings or something of that nature. That could cause the rotor to move up into the exhaust. Just a thought.

Somebody ripped off my ideal about the fan mounted overhead. The link for their product is in the video description and it $500. Mine might not be as pretty but it was less than $50. Looks like they used the same 12V 80 watt fans also. I knew I should have mass produced and patented the ideal. My millions gone. Just like the hair on the top of my head. 😂

Just Mark, got pics?

Thanks for the reply KLM. In the pics 7,8,9, and 10 in the 1st post. The air box is removed and a thin plastic flex hose. (Almost like the ones used for a dryer vent hose.) Is attached and going thru the drive shaft tunnel and into the hood area. That is where I stopped the mock-up. When I make the permanent install I will use solid wall pipe as much as possible. I have a heat gun that will be used to make bends and pre-made bends where needed. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress. As well as the fans I'm installing. The fans are on another post. Then I'm going to make doors and installing a heater. Plan on taking pics and posting all progress.

Nobody has a comment Nobody has input

My bad. The PVC hose would be sucking in air from crankcase and not outside air. 2nd my bad. The oil, if any, does not drip on ground. There is a plug in the bottom of that tube/hose. So it would just fill with oil. See pics.

At 185 hours while do a little riding noticed using a little more fuel that the trip should have taken and running a little rough. Thought it might be time to clean the air filter. I while back, I bought a filter kit for another sxs I had but never installed. I was going to do the snorkel thing. Anyway, while I was as cleaning the air filter for the Axis 500. I mocked up this filter kit and wanted to know if anyone could give a reason why this wouldn't work. I plan on removing the air box completely. Moving the PCV valve hose to the side of the large hose going to the throttle body instead of the way it is now. Now it connects to the air box. There is already a hole in that hose and it just has a 90° fitting on it and then a plug. Then route some pipe thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses. Then up under the hood and mount the new filter there. I even bought a hood scoop to use. See pics below. Here is the way it is from the factory. Notice the hose plugged into the top of the air box. That is for the PCV valve. It provides suction for the crankcase to keep from blowing seals. You can't see in the pic, but there is a hose that connects to the crank case. That hose connects to a box with 2 hoses coming off. One of those hoses goes down to under the sxs to let any oil that is sucked up drip on the ground. The other hose connects to the air box. Here is the passenger side of the air box. Notice the 90° nipple on the large hose running between the air box and the throttle body. Here is a pic of the kit I got off Amazon. Here are some pics with the air box removed, PCV hose relocated, and the hose coming up into the hood area thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses. I will probably have to relocate the radiator overflow jug. I know I will probably have to use solid pipe instead of that plastic flex stuff. And will have to keep it clear of the drive shaft. The only issue I see it the air coming in thru the PVC hose is not filtered. It also could cause more suction on the crankcase and cause the sxs to use some oil. Those little square boxes on top to the throttle hose are empty. I may have to connect the PCV hose to that and add a filter in that square box. But other than that. Does anyone know of any reason this shouldn't work? Once I get it installed I can close off the holes in the engine cover that is currently uses by the air box. That will help keep noise and heat out of the cab in the summer.

Had a similar issue with a used Yamaha 4-wheeler I bought off a friend. Except going into the deal I knew it wasn't charging. The voltage regulator where the wires plugged in were bent badly. Anyway I bought a off brand voltage regulator and stator for it. Installed both and after a week or so the voltage regulator quit working. After going through 3 voltage regulators. I tested the stator. The stator wasn't sending the correct AC voltage to the regulator. I replaced the stator and regulator and all was fine. Sold the 4-wheeler 2 years later and unit was still charging fine. I would check the 3 wires coming from the stator going to the regulator. Be CAREFUL cause as stated. The stator sends AC voltage. Take multi meter. And set the AC voltage. I don't have the numbers in front of me. But should between 80-130 volts AC between all 3 sets of wires. All wires are probably the same color. Just lable them 1, 2, and 3. Using mult meter set for AC volts. Clip the leads to 1 and 2 and record reading. Then clip leads to 2 and 3 and record reading. Finally clip the leads to 1 and 3 and record reading. I using the word clip instead of touch or hold. You want to get the alligator adapter clips the you push the probes of the meter into. Then using the alligator clips to connect the wires from stator. Remember the stator produces AC voltage. AC voltage from a stator can give a bad zap or even KILL. So be careful. Post the results here and we will help determine the next course of action.

My bad. Don't read so good. LoL Glad you got it fixed. My Axis had a tie rod lock nut loose at 75hr. You are correct. The toe is the life of the tires and should be checked before hour 1 is put on it. 1/4 inch is 6.3mm (+ -) Enjoy the ride and be safe this summer

I hate to disappoint but the way you have the tires now. With the front of the tires further from each other with the back closer, is called toe-out. Toe-out will make the sxs roadwalk easier. (Also if the rear tires stick out further that the front. The string shouldn't touch any of the front tires. The rear of the front tires should be equal distance from the string. And the front of the front tires should be equal distance from the string. And the front of the front tires should be further away from the string than the rear of the front tires.) See pic I find it hard to adjust the toe-in/toe-out with the string method. I use 2 pieces of U-strut. Make sure the machine is level front to back and side to side. Make sure the steering wheel is secured in the center position. Jack up the machine, remove all wheels, set the weight of the machine on jack stands as close to the ball joint as possible so the weight of the machine is still on the suspension. Then I bolt the u-strut on the rear rotor (enlarge holes u-strut if needed). So the u-strut is on the bottom two lug nuts. Extends all the way past the front rotors. Make sure the u-strut is level front to back. Now you can use a tape measure to adjust the front of the rotor is slightly further away from the u-strut than the back of the rotor. I try to have 1/4 toe-in on each side or 1/2 overall toe-in. This will give solid materials to take measurements off of. After making adjustment, take for a test drive at low speeds to try it out. And re-adjust if needed.

We all know summer is hot inside the cabs of our SXS. So I've rigged up a couple of fans to help cool down the cab. I didn't want to drill the fan's "support rails" into the ROPS (Roll Over Protection System), aka roll bars. So I used water clamps to hold them in place. I just need to replace the wires I ran with bigger gauge. Then finish the wiring to switches, relays, and battery. But the hardest part. The actual mounting of the fans is complete. Also just in case anyone plans on doing this. I may have to only use 1 fan in the middle instead on 2. Due the the draw on the battery. The fans are 12", 12V 80W. So I'm figured they were 6.7 amps apiece. Used the WAVe formula to get unknown values Watts=Amps*Volts then solve for unknown. I know the watts and volts from sticker on fan. So just used above formula to get amps. So a 7 amp fuse should be OK and a 10 amp fuse will be good. So pulling 14 amps from the battery all day may be too much for the charging system to keep up with. And I haven't even installed the radio yet. So I will have to test and let you know. See pics below.

I sure you know this. But just in case you haven't thought of it. The manual switch should not be feed from the sensor. That would cause all sorts of issues. I'm sure your going to use a relay to supply the power to the rad fan. Then use the sensor as the trigger to turn the relay on and off. The manual switch your going to install would be fine going to the same relay. Just don't feed the manual switch from the sensor wire. Also I tapped into the power wire going to the 12v accessory plug. That is only has power when the key is on. Then I can tap off that wire to switches to use as triggers going to relays controlling other electric devices. That way when the key is off nothing is accidentally left on and drains the battery. Relays are wonderful. I installed a LED light bar on the front of my Axis. Used a relay of course. Instead of using a switch as the trigger for the relay. I used the HI beam of the headlights. That way when I meet another vehicle all I have to do is dim the high beams back to dim and automatically turn off light bar. And when Axis key is off so are the headlights. So even if I turn on the high beam headlights/LED light bar during the day. When I turned it off don't have to worry about killing the battery accidentally. Thank you for the information. I plan on installing a heater on my Axis. I was wanting to get all parts before starting and was wondering the ID of the hose in order to purchase the "T". I've looked several places and couldn't find the info. Also plan on installing a temp gauge as well. So you saved me the trouble of digging and digging trying to find the info. Also when installing I'm going to install valves inorder to by-pass the heater in the summer.

Wetclutch? Soak in oil for 24hrs. In a clean container. Don't waste oil. After soaking pour oil in engine. Double and triple check that the one-way bearing or engine brake is installed correctly. If it has engine brake. Good luck and take your time and pics to post for a sorta how to.

Got my Axis 500 in June 2022. Build date shows 12/2021. So they do make them year round. BUT I don't think they change anything from one model year to the next. The Axis is the same thing as the Hisun. I've had to go to alpha-sports to get a few parts. The parts diagrams for the 500 says 2016 and up. So I don't think anything has changed on them in a while.