Greg Kilgore

6 round trips of 400 feet in a day. That is a lot of strain on a small battery and 400 ft is not enough run time to charge the battery. When trying to start, did you try pressing the gas pedal. Had similar happen and had to give it some gas to start and keep running. Changed the fuel filter and it did help. Maybe a fuel injector issue. Read somewhere there was an issue with the 400ut shifter popping out maybe on this board. The guy gave the fix. Said could be diy or actual fix from Coleman. I'll look and see if I can find it again.

Also wanted to mention this. Putting the exhaust back together and back on. Cause to get it out, I had to disassembly all 3 pieces and remove sections at a time. When I reassembled and got the machine started. It was quieter than before. So for anyone that wants to try to make their machine a little more quiet. Try to tighten all nuts and bolts dealing with the exhaust. Don't use gorilla strength. Just snug a little. You don't want to break a stud or bolt or strip a nut/bolt. And a little penetrating fluid. Sprayed for a few days (each day) before the adjustments are made wouldn't hurt. And most important, don't blame me if something goes wrong.

It took about 3 days 2-3 hours per day. To get the machine back together. Did not adjust valve lashing. Didn't want to take tank out so I could make sure I had top dead center. Didn't want to stick anything into spark plug hole to determine TDC. So I just put the valve and blower covers back on. And did an oil change. Anyway got the machine completely put back together 12/1. Wife and I went for a few rides before I had to leave town for work. Now the good stuff. On 11/23, same day I took it apart, I replied to the one and only email from hisun support again. Sent them the pics and asked for replacement parts On 12/8 the mobile tech finally called. Asked for the year and size. I was kinda a smart as and told him he had the workorder from hisun. That should have had the year, model, and serial number on it. He said it was there but he wanted to verify so he could order parts for hisun to send me. (Meaning he could charge hisun for a service call that he "verified" the info. Don't know just guessing.) The tech said a new seal wasn't necessary unless old one was leaking. HA! But I asked that one be sent just in case I needed it. Tech added that the seal wasn't easy to put back in cause of the location. Told him I think I should be able to get it. Tech said OK he'd order parts (engine cup, drive shaft, spring, and seal) and have hisun send them to me. To put a coat of grease on splines when putting back together. I didn't tell the tech I already had the repairs completed and the machine back together. I have another set just in case this ever happens again. Now if I had waited for the tech to schedule an actual visit, take the machine apart, then order parts, then schedule revisit to assemble. It would probably be February or later before the machine would be back together. BUT I have to say this much. Hisun did find and schedule a mobile tech to resolve the issue. And his number was Indiana area code. At lease 4 hours to the Indiana state line. Maybe if I had requested that I do the work and the replacement parts during my initial email. I would have been down so long. So I'll take part of the blame for the machine being down as long as it was. But hind site is 20/20 as they say. I just want to know how the damage was done in the first place. The way everything fits together. The only way for the drive line to slip the way it did. Either the engine or the differential has to move. And all bolts holding both in were there and tight. Also there is no flex in the frame around that area. Just don't know how that damage could happen. The tech did say from looking at the pics I sent. Looked like a circle clip was missing from the messed up spline end of the driveshaft. I didn't take any pics of the new part before I stuck it in. But I still have the bad one. (I'm a packrat.) So I guess I could compare rhe old one with the new one that is on its way here. Thoughts? Comments?

May a moderator can make this a sticky or something. The fuel gauge seems to be misunderstood on these machines. All blocks of bars (red and white) represent the fuel level. When the tank is empty the red bar AND the fuel pump icon flash. In the pic below, the fuel gauge indicates a full tank. In this pic the fuel gauge reads about 1/2 a tank. Notice in the 1st pic there is one red bar AND 5 white bars = full tank of gas. In the 2nd pic there is 1 red bar and 3 white bars = about 1/2 tank of gas. The tank holds about 7 gallons. I put 60 miles that trip and used about 3 gallons or so. Your MPG may vary. Hope this helps the new owners and soon-to-be owners.

Remove spark plug. Ground the spark plug to the engine. Remove the electrical connection on fuel injector (so not spraying fuel into cylinder. Less of a fire risk.). Check for spark at spark plug gap. Let us know.

Cool glad you got it back operational.

Explain the process on checking the battery please. Not familiar with that machine but the owners manual should tell where spark plug is. The battery needs to have a charge of about 12.6 volts to be considered good. Less than 12.2 and it probably won't kick in the starter. The stator charging system is not the best. Can you hear fuel pump? Any codes on dash?

Thought you were still having trouble and was about to reply. Then got the post where you replied to aefron88. 😆 Glad you got it fixed.

Glad all worked out. Your turn around time with hisun has been better than mine. I got a reply 8 day after I sent request for mobile tech. Replied 1hr later to email asking for parts and I'd fix it myself. Haven't heard back. That was over a week ago. Found parts (hopefully they fit) on Amazon and are currently on their way. Dude, that sxs has 4x4, diff lock, and a winch. Bundle up, maybe take a tarp or clear plastic or buy cab enclosure and enjoy playing in the snow. Usually we get 2-3 good snows here in KY (on WV boarder) in my area. I hoping to have mine back together in a couple of weeks and enjoy the snow when it gets here. Thanks for the reply, hope you and yours had a good turkey day and best wishes for a merry Christmas and a happy hangover.

RickinMT, Any progress? I finally got around to taking mine apart. It looks like the same damage as yours. Did you gets parts from hisun?

Cool. Glad it's running. Mines down for now but it's 65 out and wife and I went for a 30ish minute ride on 4-wheeler. If it's warm out go for a ride if not warm, bundle up. Enjoy yourself. Glad it's running.

Still having trouble? Just saw the post. Are you getting spark?

Well it got warm today. I got boarded also. Took about 3 hours and this is what I found. Transmission side. Notice some of the splines laying there. And chunks missing at the bottom. Drive shaft transmission side. What did they make this out of pot metal, aluminum, and the axle says it for a 700. The cab I have on the machine says 700 also. And paperwork says 500. Think most parts are interchangeable. Still haven't heard back from Texas since I offered to fix the machine if they would send parts. But I went on Amazon and found this. Says it should be here Nov 30th or so. Staying out of town so much I racked up a lot of hotel points. Used points to buy Amazon gift cards. So basically it's free. Part numbers don't match BUT I can always return if it doesn't work. And at least I can see a faint light at the end. It was a PITA to get that far. 1 Take wiring loose for bed lights. 2.Remove bed. Take heat shield under bed off. 3. Take exhaust hangers loose. Disconnect all parts of the exhaust. Disconnect exhaust from engine also. 4. Take heat shield off that protects the rear diff. 5. Take e-brake off. 6. Take bolts that hold rear diff out and one rear diff mount. 7. Wiggle and jiggle and a few 4-letter words and finally got drive line out. 8. Still have to take the cup out of transmission. Will wait for new parts do there's no chance of contaminants getting in the trans. Will prob have to take the rotor for the e-brake off the boss but will wait and see. I also have 65ish hours on the machine. And the way the valves sit. Now would be a good time to adjust them also. Really can't start the machine since the manifold is now off the head. I'll keep everyone informed.

The winch takes a lot of voltage to run it. The stator charging system charges a lot less than an alternator does. If you were using the winch even with the machine running. Without increasing the RPMs could drain the battery to low to start. A battery with 11.7 volts is considered very weak / dead. See the chart. I would not start adjusting the shift cable until the machine was running. A trickle charger can be picked up at Walmart or Amazon for about $20-$30. They charge at low amps (2-3 usually) and new ones have a microprocessor to monitor battery state. And if hooked up for months will kick on and off to maintain the battery. It will take a little while to charge since the trickle charger charges slowly. Also the longer a battery sits in a discharged state. The more of a chance of hurting the battery. That is the reason boaters charge their deep cycle trolling batteries after a day of fishing. A battery can also freeze if not charged in cold weather. I got a phone charger that plugs into the 12volt power socket. It also shows the battery voltage. So I can monitor the charge in the battery. Since these machines don't have a gauge. Once you get the battery charged and the machine running. You can put the multimeter on the battery. Write down the voltage. Have someone increase the rpm and watch the meter. It should also increase. So let's 1. Charge the battery. Get the machine running. 2. Then check the battery volts while running to make sure it is charging. 3. Shut it off. Remove the fuel pump. Make sure the float arm moves freely. Put fuel pump back in and make sure machine starts. I usually wait after turning key on for the fuel pump to cut off. Before trying to start. 4. Then adjust a little at a time on the shift cable. 5. Hopefully enjoy without any more troble.

Adam, that is some good info. Thanks for sharing.

Had similar situation. Road a nice long ride. Stopped to get a drink at a store. Machine started but wouldn't idle and died. Had to give it gas to keep running. Got home sat a little and all was good. Changed the fuel filter and even though it's a new machine. Looked like paint chips inside the filter on the output nipple. I put a plastic filter on and haven't had any trouble with idle since. I'm going to get another injector and replace just to be safe. Once I get other issues taken care of.

I rewatched the video you posted with the clicking. I think I could hear the starter turn over for 1/2 second before it started clicking. Battery weak. The popping out of gear I'm going to say is a shift linkage adjustment. Simple enough to adjust. Just got to get it running first. If you don't have a battery charger or jumper cables. Take battery out and take to local auto zone or advance auto parts. They can charge battery and test at same time. And the service is FREE. They might try and sale you a battery. But you can always say no. Here is a replacement shift linkage cable. Zoom in on the ends. It looks as if there is adjustments on both ends of the cable. Haven't looked at the manual but I'd say there are directions in there on how to adjust it

The starter solenoid works like a electric magnet. The key switch supply a small amount of positive current to the solenoid. Usually the negative comes from how the solenoid is bolted or secured to the frame. When the key is turned to the start position and the current from key switch is routed to the solenoid. It creates a electric magnet that pulls or pushes on a bar. That bar causes a connection on the large wires that go the battery and the starter. That is just a simple explanation of how a typical solenoid works.

It took over 8 business days for Hisun to send me an email. And this is a short week. So it may take a little longer. Since the starter relay solenoid is clicking. There is voltage going to the relay from the key switch. Since the lights dim/go out on the dash. There is a large amount of voltage going through the relay to the starter. Since the starter isn't spinning and bendix isn't engaging the flywheel on the engine. I'm going to say the battery is weak. The engine will run as long as the battery has voltage even if the charging system (stator, rectifier, regulator) isn't charging the battery. Usually the rectifier and regulator is one unit. To trouble shoot you need to get the machine running first. Charge the battery. Put a multimeter set to DC volts and see the volts the battery has. Should be 12.5 to 13 volts. Disconnect multimeter and start the engine. Once the engine is running for a few minutes. Check voltage again. Should be 13.5 to 14.5. But either way write down the reading. Have someone increase the RPM and write down voltage again. With engine running and lights on. Write down voltage. Leave lights on and increase the RPM and write down voltage. Unlike a car the sxs has a stator that generates variable AC voltage. The rectifier converts AC to DC voltage. The regulator gives a steadier amount of DC voltage (less than 15 DC volts). It's possible when you were working on the fuel sending unit. Disconnecting hoses and electrical connections. Or checking the connections on the dash. That the voltage regulator may have gotten disconnected by accident and not reconnected. Item 2 on this page https://alpha-sports.com/coleman_parts.htm?q=coleman_parts Show to be the voltage regulator under the hood. Part 24 shows to be a 30 amp fuse and from the looks of it. Should be on the starter relay solenoid. I'm not at all familiar with this machine. This is just from general knowledge of simular engines from yamahas to outboards. I will try to help where I can. There are ways to check voltage from the stator but requires more dedicated equipment. Not a lot of money. Less than $30 but can be a little dangerous since it is AC voltage. But we can troubleshoot that later if needed. First would be to check all fuses, check all connections and grounds. A multimeter is a must. Let me/us know what you find out. When you first turn the key switch to on, do you hear the fuel pump kick on, then kick off?

I've had both. A 2013 CFMoto Uforce 600 and currently a HiSun Axis 500. Bought the cfmoto used. After I got the thing reliable it was a decent machine. But the belt had a catastrophic failure and locked up the sheaves while wife and I were on the road. The wife didn't/wouldn't ride any longer. So we got the axis. After repairing the cfmoto, we sold it. The parts for the cfmoto were a little harder to source. But I think that was because of the year. There seem to be a lot of cfmoto dealers/shops in this area. But that could be this area. As stated belt machines are a little different. They don't like being bogged down. The belt or clutch slipping is not good. It doesn't take a lot of trying to pull or push something. With the wheels not spinning. To wear out the belt or clutch. Also remember there is a break in period. That the machines should not be ran above 50% throttle, throttle position should vary and other things. For the snow you plan on pushing, I'd go with as big of machine you could afford/find. I wished the wife wasn't afraid of the cfmoto. I personally think it was the better machine of the two. But the axis is a nice machine as well. Both are loud. Both have air intake in center console. Both have heat issues in the cab during the summer. Running some pipe and moving the air intake so sound deadening material can be added to the center console would help but may void the warranty on either machine. The axis had turn signals. Axis hasn't laid us over on our side (yet). Both have seat belts. But I bought 5-point harnesses for both passenger and driver and added the the axis. (Only installed 4-points) Left the original seat belt in. Only modification I made. Hope above info helps.

I have heard about machine setting in shops for months as well. And I'm kinda impatient also. Bad combination. I did receive an email stating that they are trying to locate and schedule a mobile tech. That was 4 days ago and haven't heard anything since. I did reply to the email. Stating I can work on the machine and have the ability. If HiSun would supply the parts and disassemble advice as needed. 2 hrs after receiving the initial email. Haven't heard a response about that either. Didn't say anything about compensation for my time. I'm going to give a call Monday and see if I can talk the the lady that sent the email since I have her extension now. I've taken the next 2 weeks off since I've been working out of state, 6 days a week since the middle of Sept. And kinda burnt out. Last week paycheck had 98hr on it. That is with 8hr holiday pay but still that a lot in 6 days. But what am I to do. Go back to hotel and stare at the walls. If I out of town for work, it's to work, and work I shall. But that includes driving 11 hr home on Fridays and 11 hrs back to hotel on Sundays. It's a little chilly outside now. But suppose to warm up to the 50s first part of the week. So at least I can take a look at what will be needed to tackle this issue and get this thing apart. I may be able to just a strap and pull the driveshaft back into the cup but will have to wait and see. I'll let ya know. Thanks for the replay and advise. I'll post pics as I can.

Brent, The Axis has a wet clutch and then a belt. If the engine is running then the clutch is spinning. There are paws the sling outward on the clutch that engages the clutch drum. There's not a lot of friction material on the paws. The clutch drum has a shaft. That shaft spins the primary sheave. The primary sheave spins the cvt belt. The cvt belt spins the secondary sheave. The gearing is determined by how Hi or low the belt rides on the primary and secondary sheaves. The primary sheaves has weights that will move outward so the space between the inner and outer section of the primary sheave varies so the belt can move up and down. Same thing happens on the secondary sheave except it is controlled by a spring. If the engine is running, machine running and in gear. And machine isn't moving. Either the wet clutch or cvt belt is slipping. Either is bad. Usually if the belt is slipping there is usually smoke and a smell. The weights in the primary sheave and spring in the secondary can be changed. This changes how the cvt belt travels up and down the sheaves and the gearing. I don't know enough to tell you how to change the weights or spring for better performance for what your needing. Just kinda the basic operation. I have read on other boards about a spacer between the outer primary sheave and nut. That will lower the top speed a little to give a little more torque when riding up hills. But for what your needing I'd say it probably a combination of weights and spring in the sheaves. Now most important thing. I'm no expert. And I may have explained things completely wrong. If I'm wrong someone let me know and I'll delete this post. I don't want to spread misinformation or point people in the wrong direction. Brent, start your own post if you decide to tackle the pulling issue you have. I would like to know your solution. I live 10 minutes from the lake. And 15-20 minutes from 3 different boat ramps. I would like to take my Axis 500 and launch a boat. (Have 3. 16ft pontoon 25hp, 15ft bass 110hp, 14ft V bottom 5hp.) There's also a few places that I could launch, not a ramp, just the shore but I'd have to back out into the lake a little more that I like. And don't want to get stuck or sink up. Good luck.

I understand your frustration. You may want to check the terminal connections AND the big power connections on the frame, solenoid, and starter. Possible put a trickle charger on the battery. My brother puts permanent leads on his motorcycle battery with a quick connect plug. Quick connect plug similar to a trailer light connector. That he leaves connected to the battery and just tucks the plug out of the way when not riding. Then he just connects to one of those solar panel chargers or trickle charger. Just to maintain the battery. I noticed the snow flying so temps are a little cold. The battery could be a little weak. Anything less the 12.4 volts with a sitting battery and the battery is considered drained. It's possible that a little charge and the machine will fire right up. My mower has a weak battery. It spins the starter fine. But not fast enough to "spin" the gear up the shaft of the starter to engage the flywheel. Every now and then I have to charge it. I hope you get a response and they make you happy. It took me 10 days to get a response for my request for a mobile tech visit for my warranty issue. No tech yet just a response saying they are trying to schedule someone. Just a thought. Hope all works out for the best.

My 2022 Axis 500 can get about 30 MPH in low and 41 MPH in high. 45 + MPH down hill. Has about 62 hours. 1082 miles. All stock. Except I did put in 4-point harness for driver and passenger.

What's the level in the tank now. When it was flashing the red bar and fuel pump icon. That indicated an empty tank. Then it started walking to full tank. Never seen that before. Was cool. Hopefully just disconnecting and reconnecting helped to clean the connections. Did you take multi meter reading on the sending unit/float side?