Greg Kilgore

Hate to hear about your son's condition. I hope all goes well for y'all.
 
I got a $50 heater a year ago and just installed in my 2021 Axis 500.
Here is the link on my install.
www.utvboard.com/topic/51705-heater-installed-2021-axis-500/
If you do yourself, you will probably have to burp the coolant line on top of the engine to get all the air out of the coolant system after the install. There is a bleed screw on top of the "goose neck" that comes out of the engine. I had to do mine about 5 times to get all the air out. That's once a day over 5 days.  Each day before the wife and I went for a ride.
Good luck. Let us know how it goes and welcome to the forum.

Just because your machine is a coleman it is made by Hisun. Just like the Massimo, (my) Axis, and others. The computer reset is the same.
Hisun uses the delphi MT05 ECU.
There is 2 ways. I like option 2.
And should always wait for fuel pump to build up pressure and kick off before attempting to start engine
Option 1 (From MotorCycleDoctor . Com) . Start machine. Leave it in park. Warm engine for at least 2 minuits. Hold throttle wide open for 5 seconds. The rev limiter will prevent it from blowing up the engine. Turn off engine for at least 15 seconds. Then start machine and allow the computer to re-learn the computer.
 
Option 2. Start with the machine off. Turn keyswitch to on. Make sure the fuel pumps kicks on. Then turn the key back off. Do the on off thing 5 times within 30 seconds. Make sure the fuel pump kicks on each time. Once the 5th time off, leave off 30 seconds.  Then start and allow computer to re-learn.
 
ECU-Reset-5.pdf
 

Was thinking. Dangerous I know. If it cranks but won't hit AND the display on dash isn't working also. I'd look for something common to both situation. 
Like fuse or key switch and such.

Could have tried to loosen the exhaust. Then adjust the exhaust up and out of the way. 
You may want to look at the drive shaft bearings or something of that nature. That could cause the rotor to move up into the exhaust. 
 
Just a thought.

Well finally got the driver's side seat so wife will be able to slide seat forward.
Couldn't find my jigsaw metal blades, so had to use the wood blade I had installed in jigsaw. Wasted a lot of time looking for metal blades. Was only able to get the driver's side done. But I have the seat to put in passenger side.
I got a new-to-me set of RZR seats off eBay. Then a set of seat sliders off eBay. I used the existing seat base and made a new one out of a piece of 1/16 metal I had laying around. (Old data cabinet side panel) then took the latch off the old seat base and put on new metal base. The only issue is I need to make the rear "fingers" a little thicker. The rear of the base has a little play when seat is empty. But not enough to cause any issue when riding. Also may need a few washers between the base plate and latch. When the seat is installed. The latch keeps the plate from setting all the way down. But I just pull up on the latch and let it side down a little lower on the locking post.
 
Not to mention the harness will keep you in the seat. Got the harnesses off Amazon. 
Below are pics. 
Before.

 
After.

 
New seat all the way back.



 
The slide slid all the way forward.



 
Pic of lock

Here is the seat sliders.

Well it got warm today. I got boarded also.
Took about 3 hours and this is what I found.
Transmission side. Notice some of the splines laying there. And chunks missing at the bottom.

 
Drive shaft transmission side.


 
What did they make this out of pot metal, aluminum,  and the axle says it for a 700. The cab I have on the machine says 700 also. And paperwork says 500. Think most parts are interchangeable.  
Still haven't heard back from Texas since I offered to fix the machine if they would send parts. But I went on Amazon and found this.

 
Says it should be here Nov 30th or so. Staying out of town so much I racked up a lot of hotel points. Used points to buy Amazon gift cards. So basically it's free.
Part numbers don't match BUT I can always return if it doesn't work. And at least I can see a faint light at the end.
 
It was a PITA to get that far. 
1 Take wiring loose for bed lights.
2.Remove bed. Take heat shield under bed off.
3. Take exhaust hangers loose. Disconnect all parts of the exhaust. Disconnect exhaust from engine also.
4. Take heat shield off that protects the rear diff.
5. Take e-brake off.
6. Take bolts that hold rear diff out and one rear diff mount.
7. Wiggle and jiggle and a few 4-letter words and finally got drive line out.
8. Still have to take the cup out of transmission. Will wait for new parts do there's no chance of contaminants getting in the trans.
Will prob have to take the rotor for the e-brake off the boss but will wait and see.
I also have 65ish hours on the machine. And the way the valves sit. Now would be a good time to adjust them also. Really can't start the machine since the manifold is now off the head. 
I'll keep everyone informed.