Dale Stansbery

I bought generic cover from Amazon that was designed for SXS UTV's. It has tie down anchors and straps. I used it for 2 winters and it worked well. I subsequently found space in my machinery shed for it.

If it's like the outfitter 550, pull the center and right side access panels under the seat for best view and access to the dipstick. Unfortunately the aftermarket dipstick extension tubes won't work since they extend up under the non removable portion between the access panels.

Bolt M9x109, for instance this head bolt is available at Motorcycle Doctor.

Did you take a look at the parts diagram?...https://alpha-sports.com/massimo_parts.htm?q=massimo-parts I suppose there may be a unique situation that only a 1 off bolt or screw may work, but everything I see on the parts diagrams are standard metric bolts. They are after all trying to minimize costs, and creating unique hardware hardly seems productive.

Since you mentioned TSC, I assume you're talking about a Coleman. If I recall, both scales are on the screen, but I'd have to look again to be sure.

Make sure it's not in 4-wheel drive, it gets much stiffer to turn on pavement or solid ground. Also, make sure your toe in isn't way off.

I imagine my 550 linkage is similar to your 500. I have to be sure my engine is at complete idle, and sometimes have to press hard on my brake to get it to shift into reverse. Now it may be the adjustment is a little off, but so far the above steps has allowed me to get it into reverse.

Nods may be correct, but a weak battery can cause the problem, as well as dirty battery terminals, or a weak or dead charging system. I'd first test the battery voltage and if it's less than 12.6 volts, then check the battery terminals for corrosion/looseness, then charge the battery. Start it and check the output of the charging system for >12.6 volts, ~13v+. If it won't start at this point and you're still getting clicking, you'd need to test the solenoid and circuitry to the solenoid from the switch.

Sounds like a loose connection somewhere in your primary 12 volt supply or ground. Do you have a service manual with a circuit diagram and a good volt meter? I'd start at the battery, test for 12 volts from the positive terminal to a ground somewhere on the engine or frame. If you read 12 volts, your ground is probably OK. Then start testing from your battery ground to the ignition switch to see if you're getting 12 volts there. Someone with other ideas will hopefully chime in. You'll need a wiring diagram to check much further than that. Looking at the diagram for my 550, it looks like the horn is hot all the time, yours may be also, does it work with the key off?

If you look at the Hisun parts catalog (Alpha-Sports.com) it shows a cap for a carb engine and a different one one for an EFI engine. I'm certain they can assist you in getting the correct gas cap. It sounds like you have enough time invested now with the 400 that you should just fix it and enjoy it. Unless it had an excessive amount of hours on the hour meter or you find something major wrong, I think you did OK on the price. I bought a 2021 (in 2021) outfitter 550 and love it.

I sounds like it could be a loose or corroded terminal. When you start the engine, does the speedo kick up every time? I have 2021 Coleman 550 with low hours and the speedometer quit working while I'm driving. But,it kicks up to max and back down when I initially start it. I think that's telling me that electronic control unit is going through a test sequence at start up and the dash component is fine. I have a replacement sending unit but haven't installed it yet. Don't assume that your new sending unit is not also faulty. I don't know if there's anyway to test it unfortunately. Another thing I haven't explored are error codes and if they could shed any light on the problem.

The photos I showed are what it was when I started, and indeed with a lot of toe out, especially the left tire. I didn't take photos after correcting to10mm toe in. Thanks for the added drawings, they will be very instructive for others who may be interested. I only have about 40 -50 hours on the machine so I'm pretty sure it came with the excessive toe out. I should have labeled my photos better, but I wanted to show how you can measure toe in(out) with the string method . The steering is noticeably easier with the correct toe in. It would be wise to check any machine's alignment if one hasn't done so already. The manual suggests checking every 100 hours, but I'd also suggest doing it at 0 hours. The advantage I saw with the string method is being able to get the front tires parallel with the rear, and when properly adjusted, the string was not touching the rear; cleared ~ 7-8mm (15mm/2), and the front cleared an additional 5mm to get a total of 10mm toe in.

Toe-in adjustment successful. I used the string method since there's almost no way to follow the manual and measure the distance between the tire centers at the rear of the tire. Also using the string method allows 1 person to set the toe-in. The string method uses a string stretched along the sides of the rear tires to the front tires. The string just touches the front and back of the rear tire and should be parallel to the side of the front tire if the toe-in is neutral. One caveat, the front track on the Outfitter 550 is 15mm narrower than the rear tires, so the string shouldn't touch the front tires, but be parallel and about 7.5mm (15mm/2) away.. I'm attaching three photos to help describe the procedure. First, the string stretched along the side rear to front tires. Second and third are the left and right front tires showing the misalignment before I started. The gaps between the string at the back of the tires in photos 2 and 3 is the amount the tires were toed out, the string at the front of the tire is just touching the tire. As can be seen in the photos, the toe-out was considerable on the left front and not as bad on the right front. The specs are for ~0 to 18mm toe-in. I set mine at 10mm toe in. I didn't take photos of the final string position but it was 5mm closer to the rear of the tire than the front giving me a total 10mm toe-in. One caveat, before adjusting the tie rod, slide the boot clamp out on the tie rod off the boot freeing the tie rod to rotate without winding the boot around the tie rod. I didn't and was watching the string and tire and didn't see the boot being twisted around. I had to adjust the left tie rod so far that I had the boot twisted tightly around the tie rod. I also suggest using two sets of jack stands and string both sides at the same time. It makes it easy to set the tires parallel and straight ahead with the steering wheel centered.

It looks like I have a steering toe in(out) issue with my Outfitter 550. It's a 2021 with pretty low hours so nothing should be too worn. After slowly driving the left front tire over a mound of dirt today, making tight turns has become much more difficult. Just eye balling it, it looks like the tires toe out. I suspect they always have some, but some how I made it worse today. My question is, do the tie rods only use one lock nut on the outer end which is visible, or is there a second lock nut on the inner end under the boot? The maintenance manual doesn't address the tie rod configuration, though I suspect there is only one. If anyone has actually made this adjustment, is there any thing to look out for? The manual makes it look like a pretty straight forward procedure. Edit: I was able to find the parts diagram for the steering and there is only one lock nut on the outboard end of tie rod. That will make life easier.

If you can read electric schematics, the wiring for the 550 is at the back of the repair manual.

Ummm, I don't think the 550's came with power steering, at least the Outfitter 550 doesn't, only the 750's. Do they make a 550 called something other than Outfitter? I have a 2021 outfitter 550 and no PS.

When I run mine on the farm, the speed is usually 15 MPH or slower, always in lo. Only when I hit the paved road to go between properties do I use hi, and I run 35-40 MPH.

I'll try again, I typed a lengthy reply, but it disappeared. According to the Owners Manual, section 10-15, every 400 hours in answer to your question. When you change the engine oil, the drain plug will have a spring and screen sitting on top. The spring will be under compression and will want to pop out and go flying if you're not expecting it. To reinstall it, get your machine as high as you can to have room to put it in. The trick will be to balance the spring and screen, cup side down in the spring, on the plug. then press the whole thing into the hole until the spring is compressed and the plug threads are flush with the hole threads, and screw it in. The spring compression will fight you so when you push it in be sure you can rotate your wrist far enough to start the threads. There's also an o ring on the plug so be sure not to lose it.

I just looked at the parts diagram for the oil pump and it also shows an o ring on the plug itself. Be sure it's still on your plug. I don't remember what mine looked like when I changed oil this summer, but it must have been there, at least it doesn't leak. Motor Cycle Doctor has very good parts diagrams for the Coleman UTV's.

I think you have it like it is in the photo. The spring sits in the filler plug. It's difficult on your back underneath with little room, but you can carefully balance it on the plug. Then compress it into the drain hole until the plug is in full contact with the pan, and then rotate to thread in. The spring wants to resist your effort, but if you're careful and hold it up flush with the pan, it will thread right in. The trick I found was to position my hand and arm so I could press it up and still have enough range of motion left to rotate it. I have an Outfitter 550 with an identical setup.

Here's a photo of my noise reducer on my outfitter 550. It made a big difference in overall noise level.

Hmm, I start my outfitter 550 in low, haven't tried High or Reverse, and won't. I use it in the barnyard on level ground a lot and since it won't start without the brake depressed, I don't shift to neutral every stop just to save a little wear and tear on the linkage. I guess I wouldn't recommend it as general practice though.

I have a 2021 outfitter 550 and the first thing I did for the noise was hang a coil of about 3 feet of 1.125 inch flex exhaust hose on the end of the muffler. I've been running it for a year with no problems and no perceived loss of power. I had to play around with some copper plumbing fittings to make the connection. After reading about aefron88's use of sound deadening material, that may be my next effort.

Yep, I have the same complaint with mine (2021). I'm thinking eventually I'll try to add an inch or so to the length to see if it will still clear the floor.

Ha, we have the same problems, as my 76 year old body has the same problem.