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Ooooh-kay. Video sheds a different light on things. Did you strip body panels or did you get it w/o the wrap? TGhose may not be avai;lab ler and if so yhou vcan probably buy a new u nit for what they will cost you. Sounds like trash in the carb `or possibly the governor sertting is off. When removing carb go easy on the four all thread rods that hold it in place. They strip easy in the manifold .I have a book on that carb, I'll find it and send to you. I've never had to change a jet but the orings may go bad. Did you get the repair manual ordered?

Jim, I"ve only seen the double barrel. Saw the single in thge book but not sure if ASW ever used it. The Nikki double barrel is used by severa;l enginde mfg such as Briggs and Kohler. Simple to work on but the carbs are configured differently for other mfgs.Question.......Is your engine running? If it is, I would leave well enough alone until you need to get into it. Sometimes we want to take things apart and clean them and create a bigger problem than we had. Only go after troubles!

Jim I'm going to attempt to post the valve adj portion of the manual only. hope it works. Watch closely to ID which cyl is #1 and which is #2. Also be very careful wiring up the coils. The wire coming out from them is the kill wire and the key switch connect it to grd to stop engine. *****IF 12V HITS THAT WIRE IT WILL FRY THE COILS . i know because my grandson was helping me and made that mistake. Took me forever to find two coils and they were used and expensive. valve.adj.eh65.pdf

Jim, Try this link to a service manual. It will cost you 5.95 but well worth it. I tried sending my copy but couldn't get it to load correctly. You should be able to get instructions and clearances. Is it running bad or you are just checking? Does your engine have the two barrel carb? https://subaru-robin.servicemanualvault.com/Subaru-Robin-EH65-Engine-Service-Manual.html

Not sure about Vin #. Didn't get a title with mine. You probably have an older model 700. Does it have single wheel drive , 2 wheel and 4 wheel also. That engine is no longer being made or sold and parts are hard to come by. If you need anything post on here or send me a message. I'll try to help. I'm in South Louisiana.

Hi Jim, I think what you believe to be a vacuum lne is just a drain line from the carb bowl. If you look closely from the backside of carb {flywheel side) you will see a small screw that is really a valve. What model do you have (UTV not engine) and where are you located? bbirder

Never ever buy a UTV or Bike or anything requiring shipping over the internet. If you can't put your hands on it and test ride, don't pay out any funds. No one is honest like you are!

Try adjusting the shift cables. Sounds like neutral position off center.

Chris I would start by following the links from acc. pedal to carburetor. You might have a linkage come off and causing it to not accelerate. if not put in neutral and try reving the engine by hand at the carb. If itys not the engine perhaps your belt is slipping. Bbirder

might want to check the new Harbor freight 459cc engine.

Do some research on a product called Flatout. It is available in different formulas on Amazon. I use it in my mowers and have been well pleased. It supposedly is all the military uses on theit equipment, water soluble and not messy llike slime. Its main ingredient is kevlar particles and supposedly can stop a leak in a 1/2" puncture. The sportsman formula is 22 dollars a bottle. This should treat one or maybe two tires. cheap enough to try a test before spending hundreds on tires. I like the product and I am not affiliated with the sale of it. It might also be available in gal containers if you like it. https://www.amazon.com/FlatOut-Sportsman-Off-Road-Only-32-Ounce-Replacement/dp/B08X6JSXB8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=FZ49C5QIMOQ1&keywords=flat%2Bout&qid=1653102745&sprefix=flat%2Bout%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-2&th=1

Is there a member list available and can you send pm's?

shoot a pic of that starter and post it. Just wondering what that starter looks like. never changed one on a kohler,

It would prove if your small wire had 12v on it or not.

ok- lets make sure we are on the same page.If in a vise you can do this with jumper cables hooked to a good battery. Neg cable to ground on starter case. If you touch the positive cable to the stud nearest the starter case, the starter should spin. if so, starter good hook pos to upper stud where cable goes on engine. Jump a wire or screwdriver between that stud and small terminal. That should energize solenoid. If not try other starter. You should have enough parts to make one good one. there also should be a strap connecting the bottom stud to the interior of the housing. This completes the circuit in normal use. Remember these small starters take a beating in normal use. With your valve adj problem they were really overheating.

With the battery connected to the solenoid take a screwdriver or something similar and jump between the two posts This will jump the starter if good. With the screwdriver jump between the post with power and the terminal (small wire(. This should jump the solenoid. The starter has to be iinstalled on the engine or the starter needs the negative from battery grounded to the case or vise to complete the circuit.. If not installed on engine it should be in vise due o the torque when they start.

this is a way to get around fixing the solenoid. Darryl's way.

I'm at work but a quick answer. Starter was overworked and got hot trying to turn that resistance. Before I would buy a new starter I would try what I suggested...pull the solenoid and clean the contacts. It might just work. Glad you finally adjusted the valves. Book says between .oo3 and .005 so 4 is perfect. Enjoy

Another small bit of advice. Remove the plug before starting the adjustment. That will make it much easier to turn thru the cycles.And when, (IMPORTANT) you are finished and button it back up, do NOT put the plug in yet. Pull the engine thru a few turns to make sure you didnt adjust one or both on the incorrect stroke. If you were to try starting right off it make pop and bend a push rod or break the camshaft. If it turns frelly and the valves are working up and down, you can then screw the plug in and try starting it. Best of luck! Ps: I would take that starter apart and check inside the solenoid behind the two studs you battery cable goes on. They usually wcan be removed and they may look all burnt . Clean the contacts good and reassemble. It just might work.

And then get your valves adjusted.

Check your fuses. Should be one inline to the starter.

Lets go back for a minute. That picture you posted of the dirty flywheel where starter engages.............. Is that a large crack in the casting I'm seeing? I'll stop there until I hear from you.

Try this link. You can download a complete service manual for a CH440. https://kohlerpower.com/en/engines/service-manuals

Don't have a lot of experience with Kohler, but an engine is an engine and they mostly work the same, I am concerned after the starter problem you state that the rope keeps breaking. That should not be happening unless the engine is hard cranking. By the way, congrtaulations on the starter work. Shows you are thinking and making it work for you. I would first want to adjust the valves on that engine. most smallengines have some sort of automatic decompression to allow the engine to crank easier and get up to speed. This is usually accomplished by the adjustment on the exhaust valve. They have an internal component that temporarily holds the valve open for just a short while to relieve the compression. It can be off by just thousands of an inch and not open the valve Also it can be too tight and bend a pushrod. You can find youtube videos of how to adjust the valves. Make sure you understand the procedure and go easy. Remember not too tight. If the spec is .00-4 to .0006 set it on 5. After closing it up, with the sparkplug out turn the engine over by hand. If it seems to bind you have the valves too tight. Or you can take it to a local shop and have them adjust it for you. This is an important part of the maintenance and should be done every 500 hrs at least. This could also have been hard on the starter making it fail. I'm going to attach a small handbook for that engine with some starting tips for you to go over. After you get this machine working, remember to never crank one of these small starters more than 10 seconds without letting it cool for a minute. they burn up easily.OM_CMD_PRO_Hor_17 590 11_REV_B_English.pdf