mfendley

Not the same, but my Axis 700 (made by Hisun) gets up to 54, but it does take a bit to get up to speed.

Albert21 - where are you located? Perhaps one of us that has done the adjustment will be located near you.

HISUN is now monitoring the HISUN users facebook page, and has been active in a couple of threads. Maybe you can start a conversation with them there and find a resolution. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1617178145223407

I think the current configuration has the fan on the right side of the engine blow across the cylinder head and exhaust to assist in cooling. After that I think the air goes via a tube directly downwards. Is there a way to duct this air to the windshield? You can also look for a defroster for the old air-cooled VWs. Back in the 60s and 70s we used to add these little 12v units to help defrost the windshield. A word or caution, as this may be more of a load than the stock stator can support, so if you go this route, I would add a 12v battery under the driver's seat, and power the defroster from that, You can charge the battery while you are not driving the Tracker. Here's a link to the type of defroster/fan unit I am referring to: https://smile.amazon.com/QUUREN-Portable-Windshield-Defroster-Demister/dp/B09FDP55ZT/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2BL8P5W2SI68X&keywords=12v+defroster+for+car+windshield&qid=1641556750&sprefix=12v+defros%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-4

You can get a quart of the Rustoleum bedliner from Walmart for less than $20. Prep the surface first, and it will last forever. Or at least longer that the UATV. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Rust-Oleum-Automotive-Truck-Bed-Coating-1-Qt/633904280?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=977&adid=22222222277633904280_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-293946777986&wl5=1015401&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=633904280&wl13=977&veh=sem_LIA&gclid=Cj0KCQiAlMCOBhCZARIsANLid6a91GFMNbtGg4IbzJ_wBcirMURT5hLhNRpSQhGS-fsEewZl-v0Kz-IaArEwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Here is a video for the oil change on a Rhino; like you said yours is essentially the same.

https://www.501parts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/2004-2007-Rhino-660-Manual.pdf

Here is troubleshooting procedure:

I think this diagram is better. When you lock the differential, the servo motor turns, engages the teeth on part #7, slides it to the left in your picture, or right in the picture below, riding on rod #6, so that the forks on #7 that engage on part #11 cause it to move to the right in the picture below and engage inside part #9, locking the differential.

Here's the procedure for checking the gear motor:

I think this is all referring to the front differential; my understanding is that the rear is always engaged, and that 2 wheel, 4 wheel, and 4 wheel locked is all done in the front differential. I don't see that piece in the parts diagram, but I understand the resistance to move the slider to the left. Many times, the 4WD locked command is sent, and the indicator will flash, but it takes some rotation of the left and right wheels at different rates to allow everything to line up so that the servo can lock the differential and the indicator shows locked. Keep one of your front wheels on the ground and jack up the other so that you can rotate it slowly until you are able to move the slider over fully. Understand that if you are able to do that, and the servo is working properly, this won't answer why you aren't able to go into 4 wheel drive, or lock your differential.