aefron88

Directly under your pinky is the fusebox. Pull the screws to remove the cover and check in there 😉

The fuel and speed sensors don't share a plug, which is why I'm leaning towards another issue. Can you confirm you have checked all fuses are good and not blown or corroded? Specifically fuse #1?

I don't. I use a universal style strap wrench when changing mine. It was a pain the first time as it comes from the factory extremely tight, but it's doable.

Are you getting all the other indicator lights on the dash? Is the fuel indicator still showing full as in your pic from January? If you're just missing speed/miles I believe the speed sensor is in the rear diff. Take a look at the plug that connects to that first.

I believe several people have had luck with one or more of the universal kits. Not sure if there's a plow kit made specifically for these models.

I doubt bad fuel/filter would cause an injector circuit electrical error. It's likely either a failed injector (internal coil) or a wiring issue going to the injector.

Yes the transmission is lubricated by engine oil just like a motorcycle. Also like most motorcycles it transmits power using a wet clutch. Due to the wet clutch you need an oil that is compatable to prevent slipping. Use oils that are rated MA or MA2. A lot of automotive oils have special viscosity modifiers that will cause slipping. The drive squealing is likely a drive belt or primary/secondary clutch. They are under the plastic cover on the left side of the motor. They operate the same way a snowmobile or belt driven ATV does. There is a service manual in the downloads section for instructions on how to replace.

I'm not familiar with the strainer on the 550, but you will have a lot better luck creating a new thread with a good title, than piggybacking on an unrelated thread.

They should match the "genders" in the diagram. You can test to confirm you get 12v+ on the correct one. Connecting it to one of the others will either reel in or out, and the 3rd will do the opposite. If you do confirm the colors feel free to post here and help the next guy out.

It's also possible you have an air pocket in the coolant causing the switch not to heat up enough. Did you burp to confirm? These things are prone to air pockets when filling and ive read a number of people having air in the shstem from the factory. There's a small burping port on where the coolant goes into the engine.

201 is the fuel injector circuit error code. Check the wires going to the injector, and if they're OK, and connected properly I would try a new injector, the coil in the injector may be failing.

Gotcha. You said no blown fuses in your first post so I skipped that troubleshooting step. Glad you got her back working.

The open vent you posted is connected to the engine fan. The black case it connects to has the flywheel, magneto and a few other bits under it.

Unfortunately my HS400 doesn't have the switch. There may be a wiring diagram in the back of the service manual, check the coleman/hisun sections of the download page. I know some of the manuals have them, and also list what model of connector is used on each plug. Or option two is you can use your multimeter and find out and let us know so that future searchers can find the info. Check voltage at the wires with the switch of and on and see what you get.

Sounds like the battery cables are good. Ok you've checked the simple stuff, I would contact the seller and ask for an exchange at this point. It's only done a mile I don't think that's an unreasonable expectation. If you want to keep going let me know, but from here you're likely looking at replacing parts and possibly voiding the warranty, as well as a bunch of time and labor.

Hi Nypto, How are you with electrical troubleshooting? Since you know the battery is good, Have you checked the cables? Check continuity between the negative terminal and the engine case, you should have close to 0 ohms if the ground connection is good. Check between the positive terminal and the starter relay on the other end of the positive batt cable. I would be surprised if there wasnt a loose connection somewhere in there. Likely connected at the factory and not tightened, and it just rattled loose. Past that I would try to lean on the people who sold it, and see if you can exchange it for a new one since you only got a mile out of it. Let me know how the troubleshooting goes, and if you want to continue digging past that.

Yes, unfortunately they seem to come on the slow boat. The good news is once you have them troubleshooting sensor issues will be a lot easier. These things seem to have a fair number of sensor issues, and they can be very hard to troubleshoot. Let me know once them come how the reset goes, if that resolves the issue, or if you need further help troubleshooting.

The other option is some cabling and free software called "Hud ECU Hacker". I have a post in another thread about code reading that explains what you need and how to set it up. Once you get it going: -Click on the "Control" tab -Click the "reset EPROM" button This will reset the ECU back to factory and clear any codes. The software is also a way to further troubleshoot sensor issues, as you can see what the sensors are reading in the software. After resetting the ECU the next troubleshooting step, if you're still having issues, would be to see what your coolant temp sensor is reading. If it is failed or way off it can cause issues with idling due to the fuel mixture being too rich or lean. It is a good possibility since you only have issues idling at certain ambiant temps.

Interesting. the shift shaft and driveshaft are under where the secondary is also. I wonder if the shifter adjustment is off, and its popping slightly out of gear, and then popping back in? I'm thinking maybe the grind is it slightly out of gear, and the clunk is it popping into gear under load. Not sure which model exactly you're talking about? Is it the console shifter or a dash mounter shifter?

Is the tensioner wound up and installed properly? does there seem to be good tension on the chain when installed? How are you determining initial timing? and how are you determining it has jumped?

sky pilot, it would be helpful if you could post updates on your first thread instead of random threads, and starting multiple posts in different sections. when multiple people are posting issues in the same thread it gets confusing trying to track whats been done/symptoms etc. It also gives a linear timeline of whats happening instead of having to chase posts down.

E means error code, not electrical. All the low 200's codes are having to do with fuel & fuel injection. 201 is injector #1 circuit error. There is no 200 listed in the coleman/hisun/delphi literature. you can download the Delphi mt-05 manual online, but 90% of it is already tacked onto the end of the hisun service manuals anyway. The ecu is a Delphi mt-05. There is no flashing. There is a way to read the parameters and codes using $25 in cabling and free software. I have a thread below that explains the process. You can also adjust some parameters, but there shouldn't be a need to do that it should run off the shelf. If there's backpressure coming out the intake I would suspect the timing is way off or the valve lash is too tight and the intake valve is staying open thru the compression stroke. I have seen a number of people have timing chain tension issues so it's possible that it's skipped several teeth and is off timing. If you pull the plug, and the fan cover you can spin it over by hand to TDC and check the valve lash easily, so that's where I'd start. You can see the cam from there so it should be obvious if it's way out of time.

Are you the same as user "Illbethere" with two different threads going or is this on the wrong thread? I don't see e200 in any service manuals, but 201 is an injector circuit malfunction

Ok so it has spark. Next up fuel and compression. Fuel: Do you have fuel in the tank? When you turn the key to on (don't start it) do you hear the fuel pump run for 5 seconds then turn off? Should be a hum from under the passenger seat area. If those are both good pull the fuel line from the injector. It is right on top of engine. With the key switched on you should get a good fuel flow from that. If that's good reconnect it and remove the injector. Ground the spark plug to prevent inadvertent sparks. Hold a rag over the eng of the injector and have someone crank the motor over. You should get sprays out of the injector. Compression: Check the engine compression by installing a compression tester in the spark plug hole. Ground out the sparkplug again, and crank the motor over for a few seconds. If the motor is in good shape you should get 150+psi. Below 120 psi it likely won't run at all. If the compression is lowI would check the valve lash adjustment, if that's ok I would add little oil to the cylinder and check compression again to see if the rings might be the issue. Tools: You can make a spark plug grounding tool with a bolt, a ring terminal, some short wire, and an alligator clip. The bolt goes in the spark plug boot, ring terminal attaches the wire to the bolt, and alligator clip attaches the wire to a metal spot on the engine. This will prevent damage to the coil from having to jump a long gap, and prevent sparking when working with atomized fuel checking the injector. You can buy a cheap compression tester from Amazon or harbor freight. Let me know where you get to and we can further troubleshoot as you narrow down any issues.

First have you checked all the fuses are intact and the battery is charged?