aefron88

You can either get a buckle end to plug in or rewire it to bypass. There is a 3d printing file for the buckle end in the files section if you have a 3d printer. I did see a thread on either the hisun or coleman forum that someone found a comparable buckle end you could buy for a few dollars on amazon (do a search, it was older). The other option is to disconnect the connector under the seat, and connect the two wires in the plug together, which will fool ecu into thinking the belt is always buckled.

Hey Trevor, Do you have a picture so we can try to help figure out what it is? Don't run it low on oil, it only holds like 2.5L so 2 low is more or less empty. Running it empty of oil may cause it to self destruct rapidly, which may explain the rattle.

I did .005 inches cold for both, yes. Not sure on the 500. I would imagine it would be similar. Check the manual and see what it says. It may be under the coleman or hisun parts of the download section.

Good to hear you got it running. Not sure if you reset the ecu, it may be compensating for how the engine was mechanically before the rebuild. As the engine operates it adjusts the fuel trim over time. It may be way out of wack vs what the newly rebuilt engine needs to properly run. In order to reset the ECU, while running push the throttle down and bring the engine to redline and turn the key to off. Let off the throttle and wait 30 seconds restarting. That will bring the ecu back to factory settings. If you're still having issues after that I have a post in the Coleman forum explaining bow to buy and use $25ish dollars worth of cables to access the ecu with your computer. You can see what all the sensors show and troubleshoot any ECU or sensor issues from there.

Joe, everyone on here is well aware of your opinion. Feel free to share useful technical info or answer questions. You have contributed plenty of useful posts over the years, but showing up just to post garbage bashing certain brands isn't useful to the discourse. We are all aware we bought cheaper machines and made compromises in doing so. This forum can be a useful place where we can all come together and share helpful info about these machines.

Couldn't have said it better myself. For a guy who hates Hisun he sure spends a lot of time posting in the Hisun forum...

So far so good. No signs of any issues.

Playing on some crappy gravel roads I've noticed a fair bit of rattling from the bed area. I decided to try adding some soundproofing mat under the bed. Here's what I did: I got some peel and stick sound matting with a foil backing off Amazon. It's meant for sound deadening in automotive applications. I Cut the pieces to size so they would fit between the framing and applied. I only did the middle as the sides of the bed are part of the wheelwell and subject to mud spray and splashing. It has eliminated all the bed rattle and seems to have reduced some of the engine noise. I've done a few test drives and have no heat issues on the matting.

Have you seen the service buletin ut400 shifter adjustment? assuming you're running the proper wet clutch approved oil.. What RPM is your unit idling at when you try to shift. If all of the above are good some people have modified the back side of the shifter pawl to give the cable more movement.

No worries. Good luck getting her back together and let us know how it goes.

Unfortunately there isn't a manual for that year on this site. 99% chance the spec is the same which is why I posted it. Believe it or not all these hisuns are all very similar mechanically and have very few changes year to year. Look thru the service manual and see if it looks like the same vehicle. If so you should be good to use it.

These unit have a wet clutch. Modern car oils have energy conserving slip modifiers that prevent the wet clutch from working properly. Switch to a "MA" approved wet clutch oil and it will likely fix your issue and keep from destroying your wet clutch in short order.

Is it a "motorcycle" oil with the MA or MA2 rating? If not the clutch is likely sticking. What oil is it specifically?

Sorry I missed where you already replaced it. Below are the starting system diagram troubleshooting flow chart from the service manual from the 400. I believe is the same for all of the various sizes.

Phil, it would be helpful if you want to start your own thread and we can help you there. My guess would be the battery is shot and can't put out enough cranking amps to get the motor spun over. Go ahead and start a thread and we can work on the issue there.

Based on those symptoms I would remove and bench test the starter next. It sounds like there may be an internal short. Remove it and clamp it to the workbench. Connect a battery with jumper cables to the ground, and tap the terminal briefly with the positive cable and see if it spins like it should. My guess would be it doesn't.

Assuming that it's made by Hisun there is an older service manual for the 800 downloadable here

Candl, For little more information: What year and model? When did this start? Did you have any prior recent issues? Do you own a volt meter or 12v circuit probe so I can walk you thru troubleshooting?

The next thing I would do is check the fuel injector. Ground the spark plug wire. You can make grounding apparatus with a bolt, a ring terminal, a wire, and an alligator clip. The ring terminal goes on the bolt, bolt into the boot wire, and clip the other end of the wire alligator clip on a body bolt. This ground will prevent ignition damage, as well as sparking during the FI test. Once that's done remove the fuel injector, put it over a rag with the wires and fuel hose attached, and try cranking the engine over. Check for good flow and an even pattern. If you are unsure it's probably worth throwing a new injector in to be safe. I would go back to driving at this point and see if the issue reoccur. If it dies my next step would be to get an engine scanner setup. The cabling is only around $25. Read my post on how to set up code scanner in the Coleman forum. What you can do with that is bring a laptop along and use the recording mode. Drive until the drivability issues reoccur, and you can then go back and replay the file and see what changes over that time frame. It's possible a sensor is failing.

I would guess it's running lean and overheating. Does it have an inline fuel filter?

I would rather have the winch. Pulling anything with a come always sketchy, and you're right there if something breaks. There are so many cheap winch options on the market today, that are more than adequate for occasional use. Either way I would go with webbing straps over chains. You need at least a strap to keep from damaging the tree. Rigging SWL should match or exceed the winch/come along rating. So a 4000 lb come along should have 4000 swl chain/strap. That would be something like 5/16" or larger in chain. All shackles, hooks, etc should have a similar or greater SWL.

You mean between high low and reverse? How high is the idle speed? It should be ~1400. If it's too high it may have issues. What are you using for engine oil? Is the level high enough? Is it MA approved for the wet clutch? If not the clutch may be engaging partally at idle causing it to be dissicult to shift.

They're pretty much all on/around the throttle body area. IAT is intake air temp it's a shared sensor with the MAPlb the suction side the throttle body. You can use a small amount of dielectric grease to help seal the connectors, don't need any on the physical connections themselves. Like I mentioned the errors seem to be all over the place which leads me to suspect a weak ground or other shared electrical connection, rather than a specific sensor. I'm hardly a hisun expert, bit I have a good logical troubeshooting process (rather than throwing parts) and am happy to help where I can. Let me know how it goes and we can try to troubleshoot further.

Hey Rick, It's strange it would throw so many random codes. I know it will throw the first two if you leave the key in the on position with the engine not running for a few minutes, not sure about the rest. Was it still running (seemingly) normally? I wonder if they're old codes. I would probably start at battery cables, and then on the cables going into the ECU and work my way thru the EFI harness (especially all the sensors) looking for anything loose, corroded, or bent. I have a post in the coleman forum that explains how to use HUD ECU hacker to see what the ECU sees that may be helpful in tracking down a random issue like this. It will also allow you to see pending codes, clear codes, etc.

I've been looking for a cross to a filter from a known manufacturer since I bought this machine. Both from a cost standpoint, and a known quality standpoint. The factory filters are just plain black with no markings. Due to price point on these machines I would assume that the factory filter would be made as.cheap as possible I have not had any real luck finding a cross, so In doing my first oil change I decided to cut the factory filter and see what is inside. I don't have a fancy oil filter cutting set up, so I just clamped it in the vise and went to town with my portaband. Excuse the rough cuts and metal shavings. Looks like a good quality filter, plenty of pleats/surface area. Metal endcaps. Excuse the crushing, that's from the vise/strap wrench to remove it. Relief valve And a spring in the bottom of the can to keep the top silicone anti-drainback pressed in place. Overall looks like a surprisingly good quality filter for a no name. At least we can know that using the factory filters on these should be acceptable. I feel better about paying $10 for this filter at least knowing it's good quality.