aefron88

The fan cover is so you can spin the motor by hand to TDC. You need to be at TDC for both rockers to be loose to check the lash.

I'm not aware of a specific gates, or other well known belt manufacturer cross reference. You can get OEM parts from shipped from motorcycle doctor or alpha-sports if you want to avoid the dealer. There are also dozens of cheapy no name choices from Amazon or ebay. I don't have any incite into the quality or longevity of those.

I'm not familiar with the 500, but if you're talking about the pinion nut (#6) to replace seal (#8) I believe you're going to have to remove the u-joint. The service manual for these things says to put the u-joint in a press, not sure about you, but I don't have a press large enough to get the whole UTV into, and the driveshaft isn't bolted to a flange like on a bigger vehicle, so we're going to need an alternate method. If you google how to remove a u-joint without a press several methods come up for you to try. Sorry I can't offer you better advice, but let us know how you manage so the next guy has an easier time. Pictures are always helpful too.

It's a coleman (hisun) 400. the engine/drivetrain & maine schedule seems to be identical to the 550/750s. It's got a whole whopping 5 hrs on it. I had it for about 10 days before I had to go back to work on my ship. Be back home soon and planned on doing that and the first oil change in a couple more hours run time.

I've read a couple people saying they found em out of spec from the factory. Just got my UTV recently and it's on my list here in the next couple weeks. As far as tools should be easy: Allen wrench to pull the covers, 10mm box wrench for the lock nuts, a wrench for the adjuster, and a flat feeler gage set. Pull the fan cover, pull the valve covers and spin it over check, and adjust as needed. The covers use an o-ring that should be reusable. Hardest part is going to be contorting my body to fit.

It's probably worth replacing both front and rear axles. They don't take much fluid. I would also plan on checking various fasteners and going thru the full grease routine. My Coleman 400 (Hisun) came greased, albeit very lightly. If you haven't greased all the zerks they're definitely due. They also recommend the valve lash be checked at the first service. I've read several reports of tight-to-0 valve lash on new models off the factory floor. Not sure on the 500, but the 550 service manual is available from the downloads section, and has a good table of service hours as well as detailed procedures for each service, including the more technical ones missing from the user manual. I believe all the various hisun models (aside from, the kids 250s) use the same service schedule, and have the same basic parts layouts.

Might get better responses in the hisun forum. Presumably this is an EFI model. If so they need all the wiring. Replacement harnesses are available for a responsible cost ($150ish) for most hisun models. If it's EFI it needs all that stuff to function without throwing codes and going into limp mode. There's a good description on the various hisun repair manuals (download section) towards the back explaining how the Delphi EFI system ties all the inputs and outputs together and what each piece does.

Fwiw I've seen three different versions of the user manual for this model. One from here, one from tsc, and one from hisun for the essentially identical model, and it's pretty shocking how different they are.

Cliffyk, Looks like a couple awesome and useful files. Any recommendations on print material or printer settings before I give this a go? Most of my (successful) printing experience is with PLA, will that hold up sufficiently?

That is very strange. You could try removing the rear part of the seat and see if that allows you more wiggle room to get the seat up. All I can think is something got bent. To remove the back part of the seat is just a couple bolts into the roll cage on either side. They can be accessed from behind by raising the bed. The seat bottom has two tabs in the rear that go into that and the two vertical pins. If the rear tabs didn't end up in the holes I wonder if it's binding just enough to not want to lift.

I attached a screenshot from the manual of some grease points (steering knuckle, steering shaft, and sway bars). In addition to those pictured both driveshafts have greasable u-joints and I believe the upper/lower a-arms have grease points on the frame side.

Val, There is just a peg on either side of the seat that goes into a rubber grommets hole. Not sure how it could have gotten stuck. I would try pulling harder or more you can get a flat prybar in next to the peg (it's location is mirrored to the passenger side). As far as checking the oil, I find it's easier to lift the bed. It's just a bit forward from there.

Heidi, As far as adjustment lf the shifting lights see https://www.utvboard.com/topic/7522-outfitter-ut400-shiftcable-adjustment/ There is a factory bulletin on shifter adjustment that may help. as for puttering and feeling like its going to die, make sure ylu have both seat belts buckled. If they arent the fuel supply cuts off for aafety at 10mph. This results in a bucking/surging and feeling like you have fuel issues. The gas gauge it can be a little confusing as it is two colors. Of you just see a single red bar and the gas symbol is flashing it is indicating low fuel. All the other bars on the gauge are white. Note that they will only show if the fuel is that high. If you see, I believe 6 bars total, the tank is full.