aefron88

Check the valve lash? It's fairly common for it to be off from the factory, and it does change as the engine wears over time.

yes, it would be an issue. the R light tells the speed limiter to kick in. The speed limiter keeps the speed low when reversing because if you cut the wheels over suddenly when reversing at high speed it can easily cause a rollover. This is a pretty common safety feature among most brands of UTV/ATV.

Usually on a dry clutch you can get away with cleaning em up like you did if it's not too bad. The belt itself usually just rides on the sides, not on the flat bottom, which allows the CVT sheaves to grip the belt as they change sizes dynamically. Any chance you're hauling heavy loads/plowing snow/towing or lots of low speed driving? Most of these things likely use a wet centrifugal clutch because of glazing/heat issues. Usually dry clutches are limited to really low HP applications like go karts or chainsaws because they tend to overheat and glaze like what you're seeing under heavy loads.

Trails? Motorcycle helmet. Riding around the yard at lowish speeds doing yardwork? Nothing or maybe a logging style hardhat if i'm doing chainsaw work

I work on a ship that travels between Houston, Southern Lousiana, and Florida...miserable all summer. I dont know how you guys manage it. I never seem to find the right balance between staying hydrated and peeing constantly. I have worked asphalt barges in Lousiana in the summer too. 300 degree cargo means the temperatures on deck are even hotter since it radiates through the steel. Much nicer at home in Maine the other half of the year.

If my understanding is correct Honda uses mostly what would be considered a conventional transmission in their models, where as most SxS's use a belt driven CTV. The belt drive will be a lot less efficient at transmitting power from the engine to the wheels. More friction + heat = less MPG. OP, if you're really stuck on MPG your best bet would be to buy something like a Honda (I believe there are some other models from other manufacturers too) that isnt belt driven. Realistically the price difference between models likely works out to more than the savings in gas costs though

Which light are you referring to? post a picture. These SxS's have a full time locking rear axle which is common with a lot of ATVs and UTVs by design.

Seth, why not start a new thread instead of posting on an old dead one. Give us a better description of exactly what happened and any troubleshooting you've done and we can try to help

got a picture so we can see where we're talking about, where was this thing roughly? the exhaust takes up the whole rear of the vehicle if you include the muffler. The starter relay is right next to the battery.

Not sure why you're seeing a link, one isnt posted. Yes US MPG. Yes its a general guess that i've read for 500ish CC UTVs. Like I said a heay emphasis on +- i'm sure its possible to get way way less with heavy acceleration, hills, or low speed driving/idling. I would not base anything on it other than maybe saying for trail riding it gives you a rough tank estimate. I would plan on half that for range between gas stations to be safe unless carying a fuel can. I dont have any first hand experience as I typically do a lot of low speed & idling in the yard hauling stuff around, so my MPG is way below that maybe as low as 5.

grease "needle" not the sharp kind for ball joints, but a slightly less pointy one that clips into the end of your grease gun. Theyre sub $10 on amazon and you can sneak into the hard to reach tiny u-joints on these things.

you can get bluetooth helmet speaker/mics that are meant for motorcycles that communicate with each other directly (no phone or radio required). there are several brands in the sub $40 (each) price range on amazon with good reviews.

One is for the overheat light, and one feeds the ECU coolant temp for fuel mapping adjustments. I believe the one on the head itself is the ECU one. There's also a third one in the radiator that controlls the fan.

Its going to vary on driving style, conditions, acceleration. I've read a very general 20ish MPG for ggenerallonger range mid speed cruising on UTVs in this engine class. Obviously that will vary quite a bit.

The factory installed filters are above the fuel tank and shouldnt really be exposed to heat. Due to it being EFI and having higher fuel pressures I would recommend a metal filter. On the carbed models the fuel pressures are a lot lower and a plastic filter is ok. The price difference is negligible between the two, the only advantage of plastic is you can usually see the condition of the filter.

you may need to adjust it wears they are not self adjusting like on a car. theres a bolt and locknut on that center caliper. With the parking brake released, loosen the locknut and tighten the bolt with your fingers till sung, then back off a turn, and tighten the locknut. Check that the parking brake pedal doesnt bottom out, and you dont get any squealing when driving or you may need to re-adjust.

sounds like you figured it out, but for others who come across this thread: it's the black finned thing under the hood just to the drivers side of center.

There are probably more than one set of contacts. Glad you got it all sorted.

If you have a powersports shop that works on clutches you could get them to put heavier rollers that will keep the cvt in lower "gearing" at the expense of top speed.

Can't really tell from the video, but it's not uncommon to "stretch" the timing chain and have it jump timing. It would run poorly and make a rattling from the chain case. Can you check the timing? There are manuals in the download section. Most timing chain stretching is due to wear on the chain pins, probably due to bad lubrication or excessive wear metals in the oil.

Relay sticking? Any corrosion visible? If it does it again give it a sharp tap with the bandle of a screwdriver and see if it resolves temporary. Most relay failures I've seen are due to arcing on the contacts or corrosion from water getting inside. They're not well sealed.

Highly recommend you get the setup described in this post for further troubleshooting: Is it overheating? Does the fan come on? Any other symptoms? Any codes on the display? The scanner info above will allow you to see what all the ECU sensors are seeing and you can troubleshoot what could be a sensor issue, as well as codes and pending codes (which won't show on the display)

I don't believe it would fit. Any particular reason why? Are you just towing/plowing at low speeds?

Yep. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Probably something stupid we're missing, but hard to guess. You could try swapping your fuse box and ecu to your buddies rig and see if it starts. I would bet something else got disconnected, or it's possible you just have a bad crank position sensor, but like I said troubleshooting that is hard, without an oscilloscope. That would be my most likely guess, but I don't know that I would throw parts at it without being able to determine it was bad.

Not the stator, these get spark electronically controlled by the ECU. On the stator side there is a crankshaft position sensor that signals the ECU where TDC is, and that's how the ECU knows when to spark. It's possible that's either unplugged or failed. There's not a good way to test it without an oscilloscope. I would be reluctant to keep throwing parts at it just guessing too, but assuming all fuses are still good, and everything else is plugged in with no broken wires, we're down to crankshaft position sensor and ECU causing a no spark.