aefron88

I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar. Tools: First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment. Technique: Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear. Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty. If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease. Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess. Greasepoints: Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.

I assume you looked thru all the 500 manuals in the download section and theyre all for the carbed version? It should be substantially similar to the 550 model, all the EFI, and mechanical is essentially the same AFAIK just a slightly different size piston, infact all the Hisun models are very mechanically simila, with differences in bodies, accessories, and minor driveline changes due to spacing requirements. Do you have anything in particular you need help with?

Does the bearing look like it physically failed? If it's intermittently failing it could cause drivability issues. I haven't experienced it myself so I can't comment on exact symptoms. The failures I've read about it seems to start locking/unlocking at random and making a grinding noise before it shortly catastrophically fails. Motorcycle Dr recommends cutting the spring shorter on the factory one way bearing to give it more spring pressure, if you dig around on their website you can find the pdf. Yes you can ditch the one way bearing if you want.

Service manuals are in the download section of this website. Parts are available, worst case you could just jump it out so the fan stays on when the key is on.

Rey, here is the relevant section from the service manual. I skipped the ignition switch and battery parts since we know it runs. If I had to place a bet I would bet on the thermal switch on the rad being disconnected or failed.

Not sure the exact year for cutoff on engine designs, i think the only major change is going from cabed to EFI. Not aware of any short blocks available. Unfortunately might be better off looking at a new SxS.

Before you tear it apart...they have history of trapping air in the lines. I would go ahead and fill the radiator and run it. There's a bleeder port on the driver side of the engine where the coolant hose goes in. Crack the little plug on the fitting to bleed the air while running. Once it's all bled fill it up to the top again. Once you bleed the air out let us know if it's still burning coolant and we'll go from there.

It's not abnormal. The winch uses a lot of power, the charging light indicates battery voltage is low to tell you the battery isn't charging at that moment. I'm not sure what voltage the light turns on at, but typically you should have 12.5-12.8V not running, and if the charging circuit is running right 14-15V. Below that the light will come on. As you use a lot of power the voltage will drop, triggering the light. You may find your battery is near the end of its life cycle. If you don't run the machine at least weekly I highly recommend a battery tender to get a reasonable life out of the battery, and make sure it starts when you need it. All of my infrequently used "toys" have battery tenders.

I have never seen a complete hisun engine sold aside from a few random one off sales on ebay. Did you get a look and determine its dead? What exactly is wrong with it? There are certainly parts available depending on the exact issue. It you want to swap it anyway I would go ahead and remove it and try to figure out exactly what failed first.

Marcus, Glad you got it back running. For future people reading this thread: Spark plug is on the back of the engine under the bed on all the newer hisuns. The cylinder faces backwards with the plug at the top. Older carb models it's on the fwd side of the engine.

Just to be clear for future readers, when you said EPS you meant EFI correct? I was trying to trouble shoot a power steering issue since you said EPS, not sure if the 500 even has that...

It may or may not have damaged the valves. Either way it's a fairly large project to replace. Not sure on the 500, but complete assembled heads for these things are not crazy expensive (a couple hundred $) so for then right price if you're willing to put the time and labor in it could be a good deal.

Good to know, hopefully that will help someone with the same symptoms in the future. If you've got more issues or questions feel free to create a new post and we can try to help you thru any other issues.

Looks good. Can you provide any details on construction? Materials, dimensions, tips, etc for people who might want to do similar. (You can also post pics directly to the post by clicking the photo button and uploading)

I'm not familiar with the EPS but I wonder if it blew a fuse that it shares with something else. These things only have 5 fuses and some are shared between different circuits. First thing I would do is open the fuse box and check all the fuses.

Looks like you got your issue figured out. There's no u-joint in the rear driveline of the 500? My 400 has a u-joint you can remove the pop the whole shaft out without having to dissasemble half the rear end. And yeah may as well do the valve lash while you've got everything out of the way.

Sounds like you need to crawl under and take a look and see what's broken, where its leaking, etc. Unfortunately we can not do that for you over the internet. Post a picture of where the oil is leaking from and we can help identify the issue.

You say cranking but won't turn over? Do you mean it won't fire, or it won't crank? First check your battery voltage is about 12.5V, make sure you have fuel in the tank. From there you can check for spark the spark plug is on the back of the motor under the bed. Connect an inline spark tester and make sure you have spark when cranking. Then I would remove the fuel injector and verify fuel pulses when cranking. If all that's good I would check the valve lash & timing.

Definitely seems to have quieted the exhaust noise, if not so effective in the cab itself. Be interesting to see what you get with the sound deadening.

I would steer clear of a belt driven machine for heavy towing and steep hills. Under load the belts can start to slip, and once they start you will burn em up fast. These things are really meant to tow light loads, if any. Skidding smaller logs with a log arch might be doable on flattish terrain. If it's actually 45 degrees you aren't likely to find a vehicle that's safe to operate on it. Coleman/Axis are both rebadged Hisuns. Massimo is the other major Chinese brand. When looking at Massimo be aware that the numbers don't always correspond with the motor CCs like they do with most other brands, for example a T-Boss 410 is 352 CCs. Tracker is made by Textron/Arctic Cat. What's the issue with the Kawi?

It would depend on what the size of stuff you want to carry, conditions, UTV size, etc. There are the little metal tow behind 10 cubic ft dump trailers with a pin hitch available from a number of places for around $100-200. These are for intended for low speed offroad use. There are some bigger offroad style trailers in the $300-800 range depending on how fancy you want to get. These typically still have the pin hitch, some include nice features for off grade work, such as articulated axles. These still aren't meant for higher speeds or on road use. You mentioned some larger stuff so another option would be buying a small kit trailer from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. They're usually more like $250-500 and require you to supply a piece of plywood for decking. They usually have an automotive style hitch so they won't handle too much angle difference between the towing vehicle and the trailer if you're "offroading". They also tend to be wider than most UTVs so you will have to be careful that they fit on the trails you want to use. They are however able to be titled in most states, and are legal for road use. The best bet is to look at exactly what you want to carry, and conditions, path width, etc and start looking at trailers from there. Northern Tool caries a good selection of all three styles mentioned above with various features. Harbor Freight has the first and third styles mentioned also.

Yep that's the starter relay. Just to confirm you checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the seat? Once you confirm those are good, do you have a way to charge the battery or jump start it using a car battery? If all the fuses are ok the battery may be shot, even if it shows good voltage. My thought process is it's very possible there's an issue with the charging circuit and your battery may not have been charging while the engine was running, but we can cross that bridge once we get it running again.

I don't think pulling the driveshaft back together is going to fix anything, more than likely the splines on the engine end of the shaft are toast, which will require replacement of the shaft. This is likely going to require two trips by the mobile tech, one to remove and a second once the new shaft arrives. I would just go ahead and remove it, and see what you see, and go from there as far as warranty, and repair options based in what you see.

Well that sounds like an entirely different issue if it died well running. Have you checked the fuses inside the fuse box as well as the inline fuse on the battery cable?

One thing you can do is swap to snowmobile trailer tires, which are wider and will float over soft spots better. That's the setup I have on my sailboat trailer. I have two Boston whalers also (a 15 classic and V-20 Revenge), but those both get launched on concrete ramps.