didgeridoo

Hey, guys! Yes, I am in the US. The batteries from bigbattery.com are still doing well for me. There sure are a lot more options. I am happy with the cureent weight to performance ratio of the buggy for now and will probably not reconfigure until the batteries or the Hisun UTV (more likely) wears out.

John- I have not had any error codes since upgrading to Lithium. Well, not true- we live on the top of a hill, and if the battery is fully charged, I will sometimes get the "overcharged" code by the time I make it to the bottom of driveway. Have to cycle the buggy off/on again. I did use the charger that the battery manufacturer included, and removed the Delta IQ charger. I wish I could reuse the charger, as it is a quality unit. Since I changed the charger, I moved the 110v inlet charge cable to the molded-in gas cap area- no more having to open the glovebox to charge. Still extremely happy with the upgrade. Winter performance could be better, but UTV is left outside in the elements, so I can't ding it for that. I have no current plans on increasing storage by adding more battery packs. I can run around my neighborhood and woods all day with elevation changes of 800 feet from mailbox to neighbors' place, and not feel any drop in voltage. The UTV feels like it has the right balance of weight and range with the 120AH packs. Wife wishes it had more gusto, but she is a lead-foot! (It would take a new motor and some high voltage setup to make her happy!) I've still had no maintenance other than adjusting the parking brake tension every now and then, changing the brake fluid, and lubricating all the grease joints. Brake pads are still within reason, because I rely on regenerative braking on downhills (tho, wife runs it full throttle downhill, go figure!) Switched out the scratched and yellowed windshield this week, too. Hope this helps! -Gary

BuggyBoy, I went with the 120Ah pack. I am happy with the kit so far, but I am still testing it. I will say that it is much better than the lead batteries it replaced. I am not sure if it is the weight difference, or the batteries' ability to maintain higher voltage under load that is enabling this, but it is much faster up hills (we live in Eastern Tennessee) than the old batteries. As in, you can go 20MPH, vs the 10-11MPH up hills. I have used the cart to pull a powered rake (Black boar chisel plow) to rake and grade my gravel driveway and the batteries performed fine. No excessive heat, and my driveway is uphill. I have yet to permanently mount the charger inside the vehicle. Again, I wish I was able to download the profile for the DeltaQ IC1200 that would work with the new batteries, but the charger (Upgrade Fast Charger) that shipped with is working fine. The other issue, which EV Support mentioned, is that the battery dashboard "gauge" is no longer calibrated. That's fine for me, because the replacement battery pack came with a digital capacity meter, which I mounted in the dash. I should point out, it hooks into just one of the batteries, so, as you are going uphill, the meter goes way down, but recovers as you ease off the accelerator or come to a stop. To be honest, the original "gauge" never worked until the battery was struggling, then would lose a bar on the meter. In the future, I may opt for a high voltage setup, but I think that may be reserved for a different UTV. I needed to replace the aging lead-acid batteries, and this setup was as plug-and-play as I could ask for. An extra 30Ah battery is still on the table for me, which would bring me to a total of 150Ah. With the standard kit's busbar, I can add up to eight of the 48v LiFe batteries for a total of 240Ah capacity. Best of Luck! -Gary

Thanks, EVSupport- I had no idea that the DC to DC runs continuously. Am checking today. I have the US version, so no big red button, unfortunately. Again, my condolences, Akovia. Hopefully no one was injured due to the fire, or trying to put it out. I don't envy the cleanup. Best of luck!

Wow!!! I am so sorry that the "mishap" happened to you. Hisun may not care to learn what caused it, but as a current Sector E1 owner, I am very curious as to why it went up in flames. From looking at the pictures, it doesn't look like there was much left to investigate. Any clues at all? From the pictures you posted, it looks like you were fortunate the fire didn't involve more of the surroundings.

Since I created this post, I have installed the new Lithium batteries into my Hisun Sector E1. It was really not too complex. Here's what I did: Remove the seat. Remove the panel in front of the batteries (screws on top, and bottom, then loosened the outside panels to make it easier to remove). Then remove the plastic panel over the top of the batteries (you may not have to, but this gave me more room to work). I then removed the battery leads from the 6V batteries. For belt and suspender points, I wrapped the end of the battery leads as not to short anything out as I worked. The battery tie-downs were next and removed easily with a 17mm socket. The J hooks simply fell to the floor as the tie-down was removed (they are easy to put back in place). Finally, remove the batteries; it is easiest to remove the inboard batteries first, straight to the driver/passenger floorboard. The rearmost outboard battery was next, and it has to make a 90 degree turn to come out through the space vacated by the inboard batteries. Then the forward most outboard battery can come out easily. Remember, these batteries are heavy, so watch where your fingers, hands and feet are, as there may be sharp edges inside the battery compartment. Since the pack I got comes with a charger, I removed the onboard charger. Three bolts to remove from the charger from the frame, then pull the charge indicator light from the dashboard well. under the UTV, remove the plastic guard under the floorboard (4 screws), and the wires from the charger go through to the motor controller/battery harness. Once the battery compartment was cleaned, it is time to install the new batteries. I wished I could have mounted them in the inboard battery tray, but the leads I had were not long enough to place the busbar where I wanted. I mounted the 4 batteries outboard, and made sure the connectors faced inward, with the battery indicator cable on the forward passenger side tray. Since the EAGL batteries are shorter than the Discover batteries, I used a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe and a fender washer to take up some room from the battery tie-down to the J-hook. I then ran the battery indicator wire to the dash, using the tunnel under the floorboard. Ziptie or otherwise secure the cable, as the driveshaft is in the tunnel, too, and you wouldn't want the cable to rub on the spinning shaft. With a rotary cutting tool (Dremel), I made a hole for the battery indicator on the dash and connected the wire. Then, to connect the battery to the busbar, I made all the positive and negative connections for the 4 battery leads, the motor controller lead, and the charge lead (all positives together, and all negatives together). I secured all the leads with zipties, and finally make the battery connections. The EAGL batteries have disconnect switches that need to be turned on. They also have blue LED voltage indicators, which, unfortunately, I cannot read since they are too close to the edge. I checked that each pack was on, then finally, started to reassemble the seat/battery compartment. Turned on the "ignition", put it in gear, and it worked! The gauge in the dash showing amp draw works, but the battery voltage indicator is probably not calibrated for LiFe batteries. With the big battery dot com kit, the lighted battery indicator should show the pack status. I am still testing the battery packs, but I am happy so far. They allow me to keep speed up the hills (20MPH vs 10 or 12MPH). I haven't done a range test yet, but since the whole cart is nearly 350 pounds lighter, Im guessing that range will be improved over the old batteries. If I do need more range, I can install up to 3 more EAGL batteries before I have to relocate the busbar to add the 4th. The stock DeltaQ IC1200 charger on the Hisun is really good; waterproof and high-wattage capable, and I wish I could have reused it. There is a way to update the charger to change the charge profile from Lead-acid to Lithium batteries, but there is not (yet) a profile for the EAGL LiFe battery, so I am using the charger purchased from big battery dot com. Perhaps DeltaQ will make a profile in the future... Remember to wear safety equipment, (gloves, goggles, etc) as you are dealing with batteries. While the Discover batteries are sealed, they are also vented, and precautions should be made in case some acid may have made its way out. Watch for sharp edges in the compartments. Make sure you don't cause any electrical shorts by bridging any positive and negatives as you are wrenching and ratcheting. Secure all wires to prevent chafing, rubbing, or other wear against vibration or moving parts. Have fun, and good luck if you attempt a similar upgrade to Lithium packs on your Hisun EV!

Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting. I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator. If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!