Andy Dickerson

https://motorcycledoctor.com/parts/utv-500-bench-seat/ You can purchase the service manual from the link above. He will sell it to you on a thumb drive and the thumb drive has a ton of other information on it. It's worth the money. You might have to call to purchase the manual.

The codes are at the bottom of the ECU manual page 66. The ECU manual does have some T/S stuff in it. You could be missing a ground to the components listed below. Possibly inside a connector i.e. male to female connector not making contact. https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/Delphi MT05 & MC21 Manual.pdf P0108 MAP Circuit High Voltage P0113 IAT Circuit High Voltage or Open P0123 TPS Circuit High Voltage P0132 O2A Circuit High Voltage P0650 MIL Circuit Malfunction

Sales Rep: NC Activity Qty Rate Amount 660 Sheave Combo 1 425.00 425.00T I don't know if this will fit the 500. I think you will have to do a little research to compare if the same CVT clutch is used on the 500/700 axis machine. I think it is.

I just went through this with my axis 700 and ended up purchasing a Hunterworks cvt upgrade. I also use mine in the mountains of NC and even the 700 isn't geared for the mountains. No chip is going to makeup for this as they are just under powered for this purpose. The CVT clutch upgrade changes the gearing I would say significantly lowering the gearing for climbing hills. It will also drop your top end as well. If you go with a Hunterworks upgrade clutch you'll need a new belt as well. If you are running this in the mountains you need to keep your UTV in lower gear. If you run it in high hear you'll destroy your clutch quickly.

https://motorcycledoctor.com/parts/utv-500-bucket-seat/ Go to the bottom of the page and print the schematic and you'll find how the fuel pump is wired in.

https://motorcycledoctor.com/hisun-parts/magneto-400/ Here one at the motorcycledoctor website.

This is really pointing to something common like a wire, either ground or power. It's pretty much calling out codes for all of the sensors that provide information to the ECU. If you look at the schematic I gave you a link to, look for a common wire connection or possibly a loose or corroded ground wire. For all the codes to come back there has to be a common source. A no signal and low voltage warning indicate no voltage present or a missing ground i.e. a lack of reference to ground.

The other thing to consider is that the IAC is sticking up inside the throttle body due to build carbon buildup. Even if you replaced it and there was build up the new one would stick as well. If the IAC sticks shut it won't idle and will only stay running if you give it throttle. Mine stuck again a month ago but is ok now. I'm going to polish the end and clean up side the throttle body with the spray carbon remover. I might even put a little dry lube PTFE on the end after I polish it.

You can use the software to clear all the old error codes and start from a clean slate. If the TPS continues to fault out it could be a connection issue i.e. a pin in a connector pushed in creating an open. If you leave the TPS in will it still throw the TPS error code? The TPS is nothing more that a potentiometer and you should be able to check it with a volt ohm meter. It should have three wires going to it 12V from the battery, center tap that goes to the ECU and ground. The ECU uses the center tap to determine the position of the throttle and adjusts everything accordingly. I would check the TPS with the key turned on and use volts on the meter. Place one lead on ground the other on the center tap then press the throttle and the voltage should change incrementally as the throttle is pressed and then return back to the idle setting. You can find a schematic on this page at the bottom https://motorcycledoctor.com/parts/utv-700-bucket-seat/

Something else you might want to consider is the hudhacker software tool for our ECU. More than likely it would have been cheaper and easier to diagnose with the software and the adaptors. This is the link for the software which I have and have used. HUD ECU Hacker (netcult.ch) It will probably tell you want sensor is actually bad as it's scans the ECU and ECU faults. There's a write up how to here on the coleman UTV forum.

If your model is fuel injected then look at the AIC valve/servo motor that is located under the throttle body. My 2021 Hisun i.e. Axis 700 periodically does the same thing and the cause is the AIC sticking. The AIC has a small mushroom shaped piston that is internal threaded that opens and closes based on the input to the ECU. The symptom's you described are exactly what I have when it sticks. It did it again to me this last week. The fix for me is to remove it very carefully as it has some small part that can get lost rather easily and clean the carbon off the piston. This time I think I'm going to add a little grease to see if it stops sticking. I might even polish it up gently with buffing compound using a Dremel. I actually loosen the throttle body and turn it to get access to the thing.

It might not be a charging issue. It could be drain on the battery. Put a volt meter on the battery while it's running, if you are getting 13.5V or higher then the battery is being charged. If you are getting less than that i.e. the battery reads 12.5v then you do have a charging problem. I just found a .450ma drain on my axis 700 that is coming from the ECU and it drains my battery in a very short time period. If the battery is charging you'll need a volt meter capable of reading amps. Search youtube for parasitic drain on a battery and there's clear instructions how to find it.

My other question would be installing the shim moves the outer clutch closer to the engine thus raising the belt higher in the sheave producing more low-end torque? This change would help for better climbing ability along with the higher-pressure spring on the secondary clutch that would also help in the same manner? How noticeable was the change in climbing/takeoff etc... for you? Do you ride in hilly areas?

So the heavier the weight the quicker the belt drops under a given RPM because the centrifugal force forces the weights out away from the center of the shaft? So lighter weights slow that process down resulting in the need for more RPM's from the motor to force the clutch outward dropping the belt down.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get your information from about the Hisun modifications? I've looked and the modifications are pretty much nonexistent other than on this forum. Hunterworks gave me the same information as JBS.

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to contact hunter performance and talk to Todd I believe is his name. Hopefully he has some experience with what he offers for Rhino's that have been used on the Hisun. I'll report back what I find. I talked to JBS and didn't have any direct experience with Hisun's except he said he's sold quite a few kits to Hisun owners. I wasn't comfortable with spending that amount of money without some direct experience with what worked. Do you have the link to the ship kit you purchased and where you purchased the spring? Thanks,

Does anyone know which JBS Clutch kit will work on the Hisun 700. I talked to JBS and he said he knows they sell them to Hisun owners and the 660 kits will fit the 700 but he's not sure which items in the kit Hisun owners have had success with. Not sure if there are any other Hisun forums where I could find this information. Anyone here used a JBS kit for a Hisun? Thanks

Try Motorcycledoctor.com

Go to Motorcycledoctor.com click on advice & knowledge and scroll down until you see your model. Click on your model and at the bottom of the page he will have schematics of your system. You'll need to be able to use a voltage/ohm meter and read a schematic.

https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.

On the motorcycle doctor website UTV-700-Bucket – Motorcycle Doctor he has schematics. Use the link and go to the bottom of the page and you'll see the links to schematics.

UTV-700-Bucket – Motorcycle Doctor The link above is the schematic for your UTV. You can see that on that 10 amp fuse you have brakes, lights, turn signals, winch, speed limit fuse, parking drive alarm. Any one of these could have a short to ground caused by either a bad device or a nick in a wire during assembly. I would start using an ohm meter on the fuse to ground with power off and then do some wiggling of wires until you get a low ohm short.

I don't think that is a valid error code. You can look on this website to verify HUD ECU Hacker (netcult.ch) I have this software along with the real Tetris adaptor and I can connect to the dephi ECU, read and reset error codes. I tried the cheap route as far as adaptors go but ended up buying the real thing. Here's the link to the delphi ECU manual. Microsoft Word - Delphi_CTC_Small_Engine_EMS_Service_Manual_Rev1_Eng.doc (netcult.ch) At the end of the manual are all the error codes and there isn't a 1111 listed.

This is a closed system, the fuel ratio is controlled by the Delphi fuel management system so no adjustments are possible. You'd need to be able to reflash the ECU.