Charles Hines

The only non stock item is the heater,which is designed for this utv.

I have a 2022 Coleman 400 utv. I have added a heater with a 3 speed fan. I notice that while running with nothing on, the battery voltage gets to about 13,7 volts when funning at speed. If I turn on the lights, the voltage drops to about 12.3,if I turn on the heater fan with the lights on, the battery light will come on. I have replaced the battery with a higher capacity one and have replaced the regulator/rectifier, both have made no difference. I have measured the ac voltage at 22 vac at idle across all 3 phases, so the stator is charging. I have never had any issues with not starting or running poorly due to low voltage. Just wondering if there is anything I can do to increase the voltage from the regulator or is this just a underachieving system?

Buckle the seat belt and it will run to full speed. The seat belt icon on the dash should go out.

A good rule of thumb for buying anything from a big box outlet is to buy new, check cartons for damage, and expect to go over every nut and bolt before trusting that somebody else did it for you. I found a few loose fasteners, a misaligned steering wheel and the tires misaligned. It’s not so much ability to afford a particular side by side as it is how much you value what the vehicle will do for you and how you intend to use it. I figured starting with a fully equipped vehicle that would actually fit down the trails I use was a must. I did a lot to quiet it down and make it a true all weather ride. I am under $8000 all in for a vehicle I am very happy with.

I’m about your age and also bought a UT 400 from TSC. I got it on sale for $6999 and it’s a 2023 model. For what it’s worth, I love mine and have made several improvements to it over the last year,such as a cab enclosure and heat. Just about any part you could possibly ever need can be found quickly and cheaply on Ebay or Amazon. No need to hot wire or cobble anything. Keep in mind that these are made for Coleman by Hisun, so parts are readily available.

Looks better than the one in the tool box, I couldn’t get the rear spring adjuster to move using the one in the kit, but it came on the second softest notch, so I just left it.

Mine had the wrench included in the tool pack in the glove box.

Utvs have a side hip bar that can be removed to give a lot easier access to the seat. Maybe a golf cart would be another consideration. Good luck with whatever you choose.

I removed my anti roll bar today and immediately noticed a better ride over bumps. The bar worked as it was designed, but maybe it was overkill. The bar really stopped the independent front suspension from working independently. For now I’ll leave it off.

What is with all the ads on this site? Getting out of hand.

I had a cover made for my UT 400 to keep things dry and out of sight. Seems like a handy addition. I’ll add some pics when I can.

Can’t disagree with getting all you can out of it. If you do find anything performance oriented, let us all know.

JMHO, but I think you bought the wrong machine if you are looking to hop something up. Whatever you could do wouldn’t overcome the fact that you have a single speed un changeable gearing in a 1100 lb platform powered by a little “400” engine. Most owners focus on noise reduction and trying to make it more comfortable.

I bought the Hisun led bulbs on Amazon, just google Coleman utv led bulbs, they are Really a lot brighter than the originals. Worth the money.

My next pre-emptive mod will be this 3/4” extension.

I really like the enclosure, it is very well made out of top quality materials. You do-need to take off the roof and windshield for installation as well as having a warm place to work because the velcro needs a warm surface to bond. I tried a few ways to fill those big gaps above the windshield, and ended up using round foam pipe insulation for 1-1/2” pipe which is about 3” od and stuffed it with smaller insulation to get it large enough to wedge securely in place. The front edge of the roof acted like a wing and the air would try to push the foam out at speed. I noticed on my roof, the center of the front was pushed down and not flat looking across the roof line. The foam is tight enough to flatten the roof back out and stays put. I also addressed all the smaller air leaks around the mirrors and at the shifter and parking brake levers, maybe overkill, but I can stay warm running at full speed now. I changed out the original spark plug for the iridium plug and the motor runs smoother too. Waiting for ice so I can get this thing out on the lake.

I have the same enclosure, while you wait for shipping, take some time to get some round foam pipe insulation in various sizes and seal the openings around the rollbar and roof gap front and rear. When traveling at speed, those gaps are just cold air ducts.

That is basically the same heater I bought as a kit, you will be happy with that. No need to wait for the enclosure, the warm air is nice anytime.

I would suggest you go with a heater that uses a heatercore for the heat, the only electrical draw-is from the fan. plenty of heat and You cant see any effect when the fan is running such as dim lights etc. Kits are fairly pricey ($399) for the Ice Crusher I bought, but if you are really handy, you could do an install from generic units on ebay and the like.

A few pics and a short write up on my installation of the Ice Crusher heater kit for the Coleman / Hisun 400. Ice Crusher makes a kit for the Coleman 400 which includes a dash mounted heater core mounted in a compact housing that includes 2 heat outlets that can be aimed wherever you want or closed, a built in coolant shutoff valve for summer use and a 3 speed fan. The kit has all needed hoses,fittings,clamps and hardware so you don't need to hunt around for anything else in theory. The unit is well made and everything seems solid and sturdy enough to live in a UTV. Installation is pretty straight forward,raise the front about a foot and start planning where things need to go. Detailed instructions are included as well as a template on where to position the holes where the 2 hoses pass through the "firewall". There are instructions on exactly where to position the mounting screws etc for the heater unit etc. I did encounter a problem with the hose positioning template which positioned the holes about 1" too low and caused a problem with mounting the rear support bracket. I contacted the company and worked with their engineers to amend the template for future buyers. The coolant tap ins are basically cutting the original coolant hoses going to (passenger side) and from (driver side) and installing the supplied 3/4" to 1/2" tee fitting. One 1/2" hose connects to each of the two heater core pipes. The theory is that some of the coolant is directed through the heater,which should be adequate for cab heat. I found that the original radiator is quite large for the little 400 motor and didn't really allow the heater to provide heat for very long before getting too cool to help much. The solution was to add a 3/4" heater shut off valve in the passenger side radiator hose between the tee fitting and the radiator. This allows me the option of directing all of the hot coolant through the heater or a blend depending on conditions. This valve is a cable operated style with a simple push pull knob installed in the dash.Having the front end raised makes it easy to simply refill the radiator without the need to bleed the system. Very effective. After sealing up the soft enclosure, the heater is about as effective as a regular car of truck unit. The blend valve is available at any auto parts store as a kit with the cable and hardware for about $25. I have had zero issues with overheating even when running for a hour on the roads with all the coolant going through only the heater The heater kit sells for $399,which isn't cheap, but I figured with as fully equipped the Colman 400 is at the price I paid ($6999), why not make it as comfortable as possible? https://photos.app.goo.gl/L64ECvfTKDPjje4KA

These Coleman 400's are LOUD, so loud I wear earplugs when cruising. With that in mind,I added a secondary Kolpin silencer to the stock muffler. It helped a bit but the thing that has helped the most is foam sound deadener. I added the foam deadener to the inside of the plastic front seat base,covering the whole surface. I also added a piece on the driver side plastic cover and the side of the gas tank facing the motor. I used standard acoustic foam known as eggcrate and contact cemented it in place. Very noticeable reduction in the noise from the engine and drivetrain. Much more enjoyable ride for just a few bucks.

Having had extensive years of drag racing snowmobiles and having used all types of clutching,I can tell you that Polaris clutching is known as the best stock clutching in the business,followed by Bombardier. STM makes quality aftermarket clutching,but you really need to know how to tune them yourself and have a real reason to move from stock clutching. The best plan for mods is to use the original setup and then figure out what you NEED to change rather than take that new machine and change things.

I just put a 3 Star soft door and rear window kit on my Coleman 400. I got the zippered rear window and door window options. Top quality and fit perfectly. I added heat, so I had to do a lot of sealing up the air leaks to get it where I wanted it. There is a top option which would have probably sealed the gaps up but I didn't get that. Expect about 4 hours to get it installed and fitted correctly if working alone.

I bought a 2021 Coleman 400 UTV from Tractor supply mainly because of the $2000 off black Friday sale ($6999). I wanted something to do some light hauling around the boat shop and figured this would be a better choice than a golf cart. Initial review is that for the money,it's got to be the best deal going. Fully equipped right out of the box with a lot of nice features. First off,everything worked,that's a good thing. First thing I noticed is that this thing is LOUD,so loud that I use foam ear plugs to run it. The rear axle is locked,like most 4 wheelers,so the tires scrub on tight turns and will tear up the lawn. I found some loose bolts and did a general inspection of everything and tightened up the loose ones as I found them. It's cold here in SE Michigan and I want to do some recreational use during the winter. I bought a 3 Star door and rear window soft enclosure and installed it. Top quality materials and fit great. I added some foam to close off all the gaps and it really does the job. Next I added a Ice Crusher heater kit that uses the coolant to provide heat in the cab. Quality parts and the kit was pretty much complete,I also added a coolant shutoff valve so I can direct all the coolant through the heater instead of the radiator,or blend it as I wish. The heater has a 3 speed fan and 2 directional outlets for this model and with the enclosure will warm it up to shirt sleeve temps at speed with the outside temps in the low 30's. I also added a Kolpin Stealth 2 auxiliary silencer, the exhaust note is definitely quieter and less raspy, but this rig is still noisy enough at speed that you need ear muffs or plugs. I changed out the headlight bulbs to LED's which are a big improvement from the halogens. I figured out a trailer hitch adapter for the oddball thing Colman provides. Now it's just run it in and break it in. For a 400, it is actually quicker and faster than I expected,the specs say 38, but it's closer to 50. Brakes are powerful and smooth. The solid rear axle makes this thing pretty capable,but you also have the push button 4 wheel drive and a push button front diff locker if you need it. All in, it's set up just the way I wanted it for under $8000.