k-bo

Update on my T-Boss 410: It has been a San Marcos Powersports for over a month. They started evaluating it about 2 weeks ago. The mechanic there determined that it has a broken crankshaft chain. This explains the low compression readings and the computer confusion. Parts are now on order and an end to this saga is in sight. It'll cost me less than I thought, but it is still quite a chunk of change nonetheless. More to come... k-bo

The OEM ignition switch may well come with wire and a harness plug on the end, but if you go to something different, you will have to cut those wires at the back of the switch. I don't recall seeing the plug and how accessible it was. k-bo

I think that's right, but don't get me lying! You will have to solder a new OEM switch in and that could be a bit challenging, but certainly doable. k-bo

Loosen the whole dash panel. There are quite a few screws and some on the corners are hidden. Undo all of the center panel screws and open it up enough to get a hand behind the ignition switch. The wires are soldered to it, so work on getting the switch off of the panel first. I can't remember what it took to get the switch off of the panel, but it wasn't hard. Once you can hold the switch in your hand, you can cut the wires. Make sure you have disconnected the battery beforehand! Using the wiring diagram, you'll notice that 2 of the wires are for the starter function. When you buy an off the shelf ignition switch, make sure it fits in the existing hole to avoid cutting the dash. You will probably also have to put ring connectors on the wires to attach them to the switch. After I had done all of that work and because I had an unused push button switch laying around, I added a hole in the dash above the existing switch hole to install a push button starter. Make good connections and all that's left to contend with is the switch quality. Don't buy the cheapest crap hanging on the rack! Go for it! Good luck! k-bo

My bad ignition switch had a sweet spot that if you didn't hold it exactly right, the vehicle wouldn't crank. I believe the intermittent connection caused the starter to burn out and probably led to the current existing issue of not starting at all, yet to be resolved. There may be more on that soon, however. I will post an update when it does. So, it's probably a good idea to change out a bad ignition switch. k-bo

Current status: On 3/7, I put everything on the vehicle back together and took it to San Marcos Powersports, a Massimo dealer. As anticipated, they are backed up with repairs for weeks and are having labor issues just like most small businesses these days. Prior to packing it up, I did a proper compression test and got 105 psi. So, this still seems low. Here's the summary of it all now: cranks and will not start, has initial one time fire at beginning, throws P0201 (injector malfunction) and P0351 (ignition coil issue) codes, has spark and fuel, ignition coil and pickup coil have good resistance readings as does the stator, no visible mechanical issue - everything engages and turns, and wire harness is delivering voltage to ignition related circuits. ECU function and electromechanical ignition triggering cannot be verified with my current toolset. So, I have punted. k-bo

T-boss 410, I have no idea. The service manual said 1400 kPa. 1400 kPa/6.895 kPa/psi = 203 psi (not 217, my bad). I'm already operating way above my pay grade on this. I have gone above and beyond to fix it, but now I'm ready to move on, cut my losses, pick myself up, dust off, and load the SOB on a trailer. k-bo

Update: I have not had any luck in completing the fix on my T-Boss. I have swapped the fuel injector out for a new one and did a compression test. I decided to do the injector because the computer threw an additional P0201 code along with the P0351. So, I'm at some very expensive crossroads. If the computer is bad, changing it is a several hundred dollar proposition provided that I can even find one. I have yet to see one for sale anywhere. When I did the compression test, I got 75 psi which is quite low according to the service manual. It says 1400 kPa which equates to about 217 psi. I did not hold the throttle wide open during that test. I missed that detail in the book. However, that reading seems way low. I feel like it is time to back off and move on. I have too much other shop work to do. So, I plan to call the closest Massimo service center, 45 miles or so away in San Marcos, and see what their interest level is for working on it. If anyone has an epiphany (or brain fart or whatever), I'm still all ears. But, I'm tired of banging my head against the wall on this. Y'all have a great week! k-bo

Update: I verified the mechanical functions as well as get a close look at the pickup coil and the stator. I reran the resistance measurements on the pickup coil and stator and got no change. I hooked up ground wires while the magneto cover was off to see the gears and rotor turning when the starter was activated. Everything looked like it was functioning normally. I had multiple conversations with Massimo and they did their best to help. Greatly appreciated! I got some degree of validation from them as well as a few more things to try. So now I'm in the process of reassembling the vehicle. I've just about got it. Need to replace the engine oil and tie harnesses back to the frame. I will attempt another start just in case I have inadvertently fixed it. Aside from that, I will check the engine compression and valve lash. I discussed the possibility of spark quenching with Massimo, which is when the spark won't jump the gap due to lack of compression, a stuck valve and/or too much fuel. I'll post another update on how it's going over the next few days. Tenaciously, k-bo

Update: A new plug wire did not change anything much. I did get a fire off right at first, as I mentioned previously, and this time it was a bit more pronounced. So it seems that the ignition is not completely spark-less. I have gone further into the issue. I drained the oil and opened up the magneto cover on the motor. The pickup coil and stator (generator assembly) are mounted to this cover. I could not see any identifiable issue with any item and resistance measurements appear to be in spec. I'm going to hold here and not buy any other parts at this point. I believe I need to verify some of the mechanical functions, like check for a sheared woodruff key and see if the rotor and gears will spin properly. I going to see if Massimo will talk to me. I'm not going to hold my breath on that one... Don't have any favorite brands for electrical parts, Mr T-boss 410, to answer your question. k-bo

T-boss 410, My switch needed terminals and I crimped them on. I'm pretty sure there were 4 wires involved. The starter switch function provides the starter relay a ground when the switch closes. That was initially a bit confusing to me too. k-bo

I think the sooner you change it out, the better. Do it before it ruins other electrical parts. If you don't want a push button, all of the starter switches have the starter function built in. I recommend getting something that is not too cheap. k-bo

Yes, those switches are crap! I just swapped voltage regulators to see if I had gotten a defective one. No difference. One thing I have noticed, however, is when I first crank the motor I get an initial fire, like one little one, then only cranking afterward. Looks like I will have to open the motor up and look inside the beast. I'm not looking forward to that. k-bo

It fixed my problem, but the damage was done (imho)... Not very long after I received my T-Boss 410 from Massimo in Garland, TX through an eBay auction, the starter switch on the dash got to where it wouldn't work properly. I had to hold it in a certain position to make the starter run. This got worse and worse, then finally the starter motor quit working. At first, I could not tell what had failed, but I was sure that the starter switch was bad. I pulled it out and could see it wasn't serviceable, so I went to Autozone and bought a generic car starter switch and a momentary contact push button switch. I used the wiring diagram in my T-Boss manual to sort out the wiring, added crimp on connectors to the wires, drilled a hole in the dash for the push button switch, connected all wires appropriately, and mounted the switches on the dash panel. Later, after throwing various parts at it (like the voltage reg.) and discovering how to read codes, I determined that the starter motor was burned out. I replaced it and got going again as documented in the thread about fault code troubleshooting by Joe Toup. It seems more things got damaged by hard current hits from that bad switch, which leads us here into this current thread. I really feel pretty clueless at this point, but I guess I will have to drain the oil and pull that engine cover off so I can get to the stator and pickup coil. I will try a new plug wire first just in case. If anyone out there can think of something else to try, I am all ears. Thanks! k-bo

So was mine! The OEM starter switch was crap and it seems to have caused a lot of issues, beginning with the starter motor. I put in a generic switch and a push button for the starter function. k-bo