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GNFO

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GNFO last won the day on October 8 2024

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About GNFO

  • Birthday January 1

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  • UTV Brand
    Hisun

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  1. GNFO
    OK. Sounds like they've changed some components, so what I provided may not apply. Hopefully it's still under warranty!
  2. GNFO
    Is the charger still the Delta-Q IC1200 mounted in the front between the two front wheels (indicators visible when you look under the front on the left side)? The only green indicator I know of on the charger itself is the one shaped like a battery. The display is in between the charging output indicator (lightning bolt) and the charger button (wrench symbol). You might try disconnecting power, then holding down the charger button for more than 10 seconds to completely power down the charger. Then plug it back in and it should turn on by itself when AC power is available.
  3. GNFO started following Sector E1 Battery change out and Hisun E1 charger not working
  4. GNFO
    IC SERIES - Installation .pdf Delta-Q_Technologies_IC-Series_Manual_710-0254Rev1.pdf You didn't mention if there were any fault codes, but I attached the installation and user manuals for the Delta Q IC1200. The flashing green though seems strange, as that would seem to indicate that the USB port is active. I don't see anything about flashing red. A solid red is an internal error. A flashing amber is something they call an "external error condition" and to look at the fault panel.
  5. GNFO
    I would suggest you look more closely at the continuous discharge rate of those batteries. 810 is almost certainly just the cold cranking amps. I suspect your performance in a UTV application is going to be seriously degraded - like at best a continuous rate of under 100A and potentially even less. Plus, even a deep cycle battery can only go down to 20% and there will be a voltage drop. Also, the plates used in deep cycle batteries are often not made of the same material and thickness as those in batteries rated as traction batteries, so in the UTV application the marine batteries are going to fail sooner than even the Discover batteries.
  6. GNFO
    Keep in mind I'm not an electrician. According to some of the guides I've seen, they would actually recommend thicker than 4/0, but that seemed excessive for the short runs and the fact that the existing cables were even thinner. The advantage of the busbar is that you could have thinner cables running from each battery and a thicker cable to the motor controller, but again my 1/0 cables seemed thicker than what the UTV even came with. I'm sure EVSupport has better information and can correct me. For the charger, I didn't do anything. Since my batteries have a CANbus connection to enable BMS self balancing between themselves, I just let them charge as installed off of the Delta-Q charger through the sevcon.
  7. GNFO
    I used 1/0 AWG cables between the batteries and kept the final cables that connected the batteries to the motor controller. I was originally going to use a busbar like Chris Murry shows, but my battery maker specifically showed their batteries connected in parallel directly with each other in their videos, so I assumed they had designed them to handle it that way. A busbar requires longer cable runs (and therefore thicker to reduce losses). There's nothing wrong with that and I'm sure there are good arguments for it but I chose not to mess with the stiffer cables and added installation. Haven't had any issues in two years. FYI, I installed the charging port like Chris Murry did, but put it on the forward passenger side of the UTV since that's close to the onboard charger and I didn't have to run a wire through the drive shaft tunnel. I had actually done that first when I bought the UTV, before I even thought about switching to lithium batteries.
  8. GNFO
    Thanks to EVSupport for the suggestion to check the 12V battery. I haven't had any problems with any of the 12V accessories including the winch, but out of curiosity I unplugged the UTV and turned off the main pack batteries (they have an on/off button, the US version doesn't have the "big red button" disconnect.) By the end of the day the 12V battery was reading 6V. The moment I turned the main pack back on I could tell it was charging the 12V battery, so the fact that I leave the UTV plugged in was masking the declining state of the 12V battery. Briefly looked for a lithium replacement because of the longer lifespan, but couldn't find one that I was sure would work with the charging designed for the lead AGM battery. So just replacing with the same.
  9. GNFO
    That's too bad. For our benefit would you mind sharing the details? Doesn't seem like it would be the batteries and there aren't really a lot of components to check, so a month seems like a long time for the dealer to troubleshoot.
  10. GNFO
    EVSupport has a better idea of the specifics, but your second sentence is essentially correct. There is a 12V system and a 48V system. How you get to 48V doesn't matter: 8 Discover lead batteries in series, two 24V batteries in series, or even just a single 48V lithium battery, it doesn't matter from just the standpoint of getting to 48V. (Total storage and available continuous amps for maximum motor power is a different matter of course). That 48V is used for the motor controller and runs the DC-DC converter for topping off the 12V battery. As I mentioned, I didn't change my 12V battery when I converted, and that was two years ago. I'll probably check the 12V battery health like EVSupport mentions, but everything has been working just fine so far.
  11. GNFO
    Getting into the area of specific battery BMS here, so probably need to go off of info from someone who has used LiTime or even better if the manufacturer has provided that information on their website or answered your questions. Although my ReLion batteries came with a charger as part of the bundle, I haven't used it since it's an external golf cart connection charger and they had also provided me with a DeltaQ algorithm built specifically for their batteries. Also, I knew that the CANbus connections between the batteries specifically enabled communication between the individual battery BMSs for auto balancing. The batteries also came with over 50% charge on them. I don't see anything on the LiTime website description about balancing over Bluetooth, but I did see that they have a new version with CAN connections although it still doesn't mention balancing. I would specifically ask them the question.
  12. GNFO
    Just like EV cars, there are 12v architecture devices (like lighting) and controllers. The 12v battery provides the startup power to the controllers, and like EVSupport said it doesn't have to be very big since the main batteries top it up through a DC to DC converter.
  13. GNFO
    No problem. I don't know how far you go for the hunting, but if you look at the very first post I did in this thread I did do one longer trip beyond my property. It was a spring day with two people, and the whole trip was in 4wd low over pretty bumpy and hilly terrain. I don't think I went over 5 mph due to the landscape. I estimate I would have had a range of about 12 miles under those conditions with my four batteries/120ah. Anything flatter and smoother should yield much better range, maybe even double or more if you can use medium or high 2wd. The rest of my usage has been just on our wooded 5 acres - fairly decent slope and hauling full loads of firewood, sometimes also towing a 500lb log splitter at the same time. Never used more than 30% of my battery during the day. I would recommend adding a digital readout gauge so you have a precise idea how much charge you have. Maybe the Bluetooth part of those LiTime batteries can take the place of that, but having the readout is nice.
  14. GNFO
    That's the way I read the specs anyway. It still seems like most batteries are only rated to 100A continuous even when they're bigger. That's why I had to wait a long time until the ReLion GC2 form factor batteries came out, so that four of them in parallel let me get up to the 400A max of the UTV motor. They were the only game in town at the time and were pretty expensive, but at least their BMS and the CANbus connections between them are first rate. The 320A combined total of those LiTime batteries is pretty good in most cases and they are considerably less expensive. And as I said, in both our cases we can add additional batteries if needed. For me, I haven't ever run my batteries below 70%, but I only run on my property and I can plug in every night.
  15. GNFO
    Depends on your situation. Total price seems about the same, but as I read the specs, it seems like the two 100ah batteries will only give you ~200A continuous output, whereas the four 30ah batteries will together provide ~320A continuous output. The four GC2 form factor batteries will also be easier to mount, since they are the same size as the existing Discover batteries (although you might have to alter the hold down plates if the tops have different protrusions). The 100ah batteries would require some kind of modifications to make them fit. I'm sure they will, but it will take some working out to do. The only advantage to the two 100ah batteries is they will provide more total power storage, so if your biggest requirement is total range on relatively flat ground, go with them. Otherwise I think the GC2s are the way to go despite the lower power storage. If you decide you need more range, you can always add up to 4 additional batteries (for a cost of course).
  16. GNFO
    I didn't change either of those and everything works just fine. I'm still using the original 12v battery.

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