2scoops

Have you seen the bench seats? I wil admit, you can fit 3 kids in them, but there is no way you are fitting 3 adults. My 9 year old is outgrowing the rear bench in the trooper. That is what made me start considering my options. I hated the feeling of being out with the family and thinking how I would get back if something broke. I'd feel that in an xp 4 just the same because I am going to push it to its limits. So are you ditching the trooper for a Can't Am? I actually do like the Maverick.

16k isn't as bad as I guessed. I couldn't find any prices on it when I searched. The Wildcat I am looking at is a dealer trade-in. Warranty is good through 2014. Yes the only knock I have seen on it is underpowered compared to xp. But I don't do the dunes and it isn't night & day power difference. Also, I am one of the few that like the wet clutch design. It allows for more finess in the rocks & saves the drivetrain.. The videos of xp's I have seen crawling make look too jerky in low gear with the power it has. Either way it should move much faster than the trooper.

I'll bet the maverick is at least 18k when they release it. No thanks. I am looking at a used wildcat for under 13k. I considered the xp 4, but I would have to sell the trooper to afford one of those. They also can't carry 5 people. My goal is to own 2 sxs's so I can go out and always have a second vehicle just in case. Reading on different websites I haven't found a sxs that has 100% reliability. Add in how hard I like to drive... Plus, then both my wife & I don't fight over who gets to drive.

I am shopping for a second UTV. I am looking at the Wildcat. What do you guys think? I like the wheelbase, suspension, & cockpit room. RZR's are a little tight for me.

I fixed my rear wheel bearing in 15 min. Took the rear wheel off and fond the two bolts that hold the spindle to the swingarm were loose. I fell a little dumb I spent $150 on wheel bearings, but also relieved that t was an easy fix. For now anyway. My front left has about 1/8 inch of play at the top of the tire. That is acceptable for now.

Bar-none powersteering. The best thing about it is its elimination of steering wheel kick back when hitting bumps. I drive one handed now in the rocky mountains.

I am always excited to see more Joyner vendors especially in the aftermarket department Mo Powa! Your story is interesting to me. Aren't you a fairly new Joyner guy? And here you are offering aftermarket parts. Very cool. The intake is a great start.

Silverbullet has been good to me. They are a little unorthadox to say the least, but they have been good getting my parts/pieces to me in a timely manner. Rick the old owner also sourced alot of parts for me when Joyner was still out of commission, so I still feel loyal to them. Would I ship my head to them--hell no; not until they can prove they can carry that sort of workload. I am not ready to head-hunt anyone you carries Joyner products. The list is still to short, but it appears that is changing. There may be a time again where Silverbullet becomes one of the sole sources again. They are still one of the only vendors to carry certain products like the fuel controller and upgraded roller/tappered bearings, so they still provide serviceability to me. What I would really like to see is Joyner dealers resurface in multiple states again instead of the having to purchase online and have it shipped out of Arizona. How cool would it be to be able go Joyner shopping and actually take a new T2 out or a Python! When I first started looking at Joyners they had several dealers in Utah. One even had a test track...now there's nothing.

I went to a brembo dual caliper used on motorcycles on my front calipers. Improved the braking, but still not where I want it. I had to fab some mount brakets out of plate steel for these to work. How is the braking on the 2011/2012's? Same I would imagine...they stop you but don't really provide much feel or grab? I run 30" dominator 540's from superatv. They have been bullet proof. I don't even worry about carrying a spare. I hit a rock in Moab and felt the tire pinch hard against the rim, the kind where you cringe and wait to hear the hiss. Upon inspection I had a small cut in the sidewall, but nothing into the threads. My friends with Maxxis Bighorns have had 4-5 holes each in their sidewalls since I have owned these. They are soft though, so if you run on the road alot I would not recommend them. When we run on the slick rock in Moab I hear other tires churp on steep inclines/declines where mine just bit & stick.

Yes, if you axle is bumping against your swingarm and the shock just fits then you can't go any further back on the top mount. In this case you will actually want to go further back on the lower mount. Even if you move the mount back an inch, you will see a significant change.

You are about an 1 inch to 1.5 inches too low--right? How much preload are you currently running? One other thing I am wondering is since these machines are pretty much hand built, maybe your suspension geometry is different than mine/others. If your lower or upper shock mounts are closer to the pivot point of the swing arm it will create more leverage on your shock compressing it more. You haven't moved your shock mounts have you? You could save some money and move your upper shock mount back. You will probably need to fabricate some brackets as I did. It was one of the easier adjustments I made. You will also gain some suspension travel in the process. Just make sure you don't go too low like I did. I popped my CV shaft out in Moab 2 times because it drooped too far.

Its not really necessary unless you go to a really soft suspension set up like a dual rate spring or air shocks. With the stock shocks I would slide around corners with little body roll on open dirt roads, but when I went fast in rough terrain it was literally like trying to stay on a mechanical bull. Even going slow in places like Moab was very unpleasant for any rocks/bumps over 4 inches.

Finished the swaybar a couple of weeks ago and tested it. It worked well, but I do need to up the torsion bar diameter. I could feel the swaybar doing its job, but it was too much into the lean of the car before it started to react and level the rear end. As far as the trail ride and suspension travel I felt no change. I did engineer quick disconnects into the unit, but I doubt I will use them often. I really wanted to be able do disconnect them just in case there was a failure somewhere in my design--but swaybars break fairly often in offroad cars. Here is a picture:

Goindeep, its great to see someone improving & pushing the limits of the Trooper. How do you plan to control the fuel with your kit?

I assume you want a lift because you are hanging up on stuff. The easiest way is larger tires, but I'll bet you already have larger tires. The next think I would recommend is fabricating a smooth/flat skidplate covering the entire bottom. The exposed tubes and screws hanging out of the bottom hang up on everything. If you really need a suspension lift you will have to do what Kinarfi said. I believe there is about an inch or more of lift to be had if you just fabricate lower mounting brackets. If you want more than that you will probably have to lower your front differential. You can probably get 2 inches in the rear with the diff in the stock location since the CV's don't have to turn. You will first need to get the measurements Kinarfi mentioned. You can push your CV's as far as you feel comfortable and they don't bind. The rear should be straight forward. As a matter of fact if you find you have a couple more inches you can raise the rear, I would just get a longer shock.

Thanks for the reply 12TrooperT2. We usually don't hear from Trooper owners until there is a problem. Good to hear you are happy with yours. Where did you buy you T2? The stock skidplates are terrible. The screws protruding out of the bottom are even worse. I recomment a skidplate made out of UHMW.

With 30" tires I have 14 3/4" in front and 14" in the rear.

Well, I know many 2008 & 2009 Trooper owners unknowingly became the R&D department for Joyner. I am curious to find out how the 2011 & 2012 Troopers are holding up? Have they resolved all of the common problems? What, if any, issues have you had? My curiosity stems from wondering to recommed to my friend buying a used Trooper (cheaper but may have problems) or a new and "improved" model.

Sounds like the Poison Spider will have more to sink his fangs into next time--lol. Glad to hear you are making it work for you. I recently went into a Polaris dealership (it was right next to a metal fab business where I was getting some square tubing) and sat in the RZR XP 900. The left foot legroom was a joke for my 6' 4" frame. Ironically as small as it was inside it felt wider than the Trooper. I realized it was probably the oversized plastics. Definately not the best trail machine. The 800 is much better for the trails. Also, aside from the plastics and the drivetrain, the fit and finish felt no better than a Trooper--plastic everywhere you look.

Well, while I was fabbing my swaybar I found a bad rear wheel bearing. I contacted Silverbullet and left a message. I don't have the patience to wait for a call back. Is there another source for the "upgraded" tapered roller bearings? I called No Limits and they said they only had stock bearings.

Glad to hear you got it up and running so quickly. Thanks for the tranny PDF.

So, I got into building my swaybar this weekend. I am using a schroeder torsion bar, aluminum arms, polyurethane mounts, and TJ swaybar links with quick disconnects. I am running the torsion bar in the small gap in front of the motor and just above the tranny. I fabbed 1 3/4" blocks for it to mount on. They will be welded on the tubes that extrapolate the transmission. My original plan was to mount it on or near the rear radiator mounts, but after mocking it up it didn't have the proper clearances. I will take pictures when I get it completed.

I drilled my stock holes out to 5/8" and bought some spacers with 5/8" outer and 1/2" inner. Cut them to fit--vvwwaalllaa!. You need spacers to center the shock between the mounts anyways, so it does both for you--allows you to use a 1/2" bolt and centers the shock.

The worlds largest 4x4 event (Jeep Safari) is held in Moab. It is because it is simply the most amazing terrain in the world you can put rubber to. Need I mention the scenery?

So if I shut it off & restarted it right away it probably would have worked again. Good to know. Jeff, so has yours quit on you much? It wa my first experience & it was the hardest I have ever bottomed out.