2scoops

Good luck & have fun! Take some good video.

Yes, coil bind is a concern, but I believe you should be able to preload more. I know you are a smart dude so if you haven't measured yet (I ask this because you said "I think"), measure the space between the coils and compare it to you shaft length remaining. I though I was close too, but when I reviewed some slow motion video I could see I had a lot of space between the coils even when I bottomed out. How much droop do you currently have front & rear? Jack it up so the tires are just barely touching & take measurements from the bottom of the skidplates to the ground. Also, take a measurment of the amount of shock shaft showing if you don't already know this number. Then downjack it, start it up and move it back and forth until you are comfortable it has settled in, then remeasure. Your travel in the back has increased with the new shocks, so I would recommend at least 1" of droop on the shock itself which will probably equal about 3-4 inches of droop in the rear. Allowing at least 1" of compression in the shock helps it to operate in its optimally designed range. Once I hear back from you on the front droop I will address that. Remember, I am running dual rate in front, so I will help you out the best I can. Also, I have not played with my valving yet, so I have no idea what I am set at because I bought these shocks used. They came off of a 800lb mini-rail, so they are definately on the soft side for a 1800lb trooper. But I have no complaints on rocky trails & Moab which is what I do most. If I did alot of duning and big whoops I would need to firm up my compression & rebound. I believe you are still running 27" tires. Is that correct? Are they the stock tires? I am running about 5-7 psi in my 30" tires. What tire & psi will make a big difference in your suspension too. Unless you have the exact same tires as me we are, to some degree, comparing apples to oranges.

Wish I could make it. I imagine looking into the engine bay if Lenny's trooper is something like looking into the engine bay of the car from the movie THE WRAITH. http://www.thewraithmovie.com/p/wraith-car.html The legend continues...

Add more preload in the rear. For every 1/2" of preload you will gain about an inch of ground clearance. You should be fine going up to 2.5-3" of preload. I believe your valving is too firm. Remember though, the softer you go, the more sway/slinky you will get in turns. What psi are you running in your tires?

Always interested in more power. There is a kit on Ebay for $1700(without intercooler). I think it is being sold be Tobefast or Nolimits. How does your kit compare? What rpm does the turbo spool up? Can t run on pump gas? How is the fuel controlled (fmu or computer)? Thanks

Still on Ebay. Item 150693498940

I saw one on Ebay. $989

My only warning is that these tires are much heavier than stock, but any 6 ply 30" ATV tire will be. I believe the 30x10x14 were 10lbs heavier a piece per tire than the stock, and the 30x12x14 were 15lbs heavier. That is a siginificant difference mainly due to the stock tires being made of paper mache and recycled road tar. By the time I changed them out the stock tires had more tire plugs and slime in them than air. I added Silverbullets fuel controller and it offset any powerloss and them some. The benefits: I can run them at low ATV pressures 5-10psi. This will impove your offroad ride alot. I think the stock tires call for around 30 psi??? I haven't had a flat yet (desert & mountain trail riding) Traction is awesome in all areas. The 30" size allows me to roll over much bigger rocks & bumps with ease. This helps me maintain my momentum which is a huge benefit with at stick shift. The ground clearance with 30" tires is much better. The price was good. Most importantly--they look badass The cons: They don't balance worth a damn. I had a little steering wheel shimmy before I added the powersteering kit (now there is none). They wear quickly, but that is inherent of an ATV tire. I think these may wear slightly quicker because the rubber is pretty soft. BUT this is why they stick to the rocks so well. Off the line acceleration is a slightly slower, but top speed is higher.

I am damn jealous. Glad to see all your hard work paid off. If I recall right your previous posts said you were running at 5-6psi. So you essentially doubled it? I don't think Silverbullets design will supply enough fuel for that much pressure. We would need an aftermarket fuel pump and injectors

The price including clutch and gearbox ,DHL shipping cost is 1800USD. This CVT transmission is for 800cc and 1100cc chery engine That is all the info Klungmotors gave to me...more to come.

I received this PM from Klungmotors yesterday: "Hi,My friend, We checked with the supplier of new CVT transmission for 1100cc chery motor. they say now they are available. let us know if you guys are still interested" I asked him to get these answers for me: Will it bolt into the Trooper" Will the 4x4 still work with it? How much is the transmission? How much to ship to the U.S.? I will keep everyone posted on what I hear.

Pm sent

Lenny, When you flip the intake, how high does it stick up above the rear chassis tubing? I am running a rear seat and I have a sheet of lexan that sits flush on the top of the rear tubing (I removed the rear dump bed all together). I am concerned It will be in the way of the intake if I flip it. Also, it is necessary to weld an extra tab for the intake? Silverbullet is selling the supercharger kit which will require the intake to be flipped and I have not heard any mention of welding another tab on the intake.

Can we get some pictures of the set up?

Interested in the rear end for the right price. What did you want for it?

Well, I guess that is the million dollar question...what drive train? I would be up for an engine & drivetrain swap if there was something that made sense. I don't want to go any heavier and I definately don't want to lose 4x4. The only thing I can think of that would be lighter, more powerfull, and offer 4x4 would be the drivetrain out of a RZR XP 900 or the turbo'd weber MPE 750. Both of which will cost 2-3 times as much as just supercharging/turboing ours. IMHO, pound for pound the Chery 1100 is a good little engine and the transmission/transfercase is as light of a design you are going to find in an automotive type set up. Sounds to me like dedub has found him a supercharger for a 3.8 V6 he is using. Please keep us posted dedub!

Time to break the silence, because I don't know when the guys at Silverbullet will get the time to post on this website and I was tired of waiting. So, like they said they have made all of the brackets. The delay is due to trying to get a fuel controller, one just like they sell and many of us have purchased, to work with the supercharger. It didn't sound like the current one they are selling will work with the supercharger because it doesn't have a boost port. They are also trying to make it work with the stock injectors and fuel pump at 5 psi. If you want more pressure you will likely need to go to bigger injectors & an aftermarket fuel pump. Also, it sounds as though they are going to offer a couple of different price packages--eventually. A cheaper version may come with an FMU instead of the piggyback fuel controller. They mentioned possibly one with a intercooler & one without, but as Lenny would attest roots superchargers run hot so an intercooler is highly recommended. Best news I heard was Rick knows how cheap we Trooper folks are so I believe they will price it as low as possible. People on this forum will get first crack at owning one at a discounted rate to get them on the market. Now, don't quote me cause I hope they sell for $1, but from all I could tell I expect the price to be $3k-4k. If it ends up being a well running, well performing, and reliable set up that can run on pump gas, I think the $3k ballpark would be a steal. So, is anybody saving up for this?

Roc, Have you switched your brake lines yet? Any results?

You should have the "upgraded" brakes on the 2009. Early 2008's had smaller rotors. The brakes still stink though. I upgraded my front calipers with brembo dual pistons with some improvement. Lenny has had the most success. He added an extra caliper in front. My next step will be to go to smaller master cylinders and try that. We have a automotive size master cylinders pushing ATV size brakes (too much volme, not enough pressure). Rocmoc was going to switch his brake lines around so they are not criss-crossing, but I haven't heard if he has done that yet or the results.

No problem. By the way, when you get a chance you may want to check the nitrogen pressure in the shock I sent you. I tapped the valve just to make sure is had some pressure--and it did. I wanted to make sure I didn't send you a leaky shock. I went with a 43" Twisted Stitch rear seat. I can fit all 3 of my boys (8,5,&3) in it. I used lexan for the floor. It is lighweight yet rigid enough for the kids to put their weight on.

This is the second time you have mentioned the noise from Lenny's supercharger. It made me curious so I youtubed some Aisin superchargers. Some were insanely loud while others were tolerable. Lenny, do you think we could get a soundbite of yours?

I have been researching Magnuson--basically the same as Eaton. List of a few other compact superchargers: http://victorylibrary.com/graphics/super-choices3.htm The Aisin doesn't have a built in bypass valve does it?

What brand of blower is the one you saw at SEMA?

What did you find Lenny? If you don't mind sharing.