2scoops

I do agree our steering box with the upgrade is OK, but it still isn't as tight as other utv's (rzr). That is where I'd like to get mine.

I am by no means an expert either. I just don't want you to waste your money. I have looked into steering boxes too & in the end I ended with Lenny's upgrade. I would like to find a precision steering box too, but the ones I found which seemed like they would work were "buggy" type boxes just like we have. One thing about ours is it is strong. I would be ecstatic if someone found a better box for ours, especially since many of us are going to powersteering. I fear the powersteering could actually make us more "squirley" at high speed. I will do some research as well and share my thoughts with you. Maybe you can be our guinee pig on this one.

well not quite. pulled away from buddys rzr4 & another buddys grizzley 700. the grizzley was topped out @ 65mph & the rzr4 was doing about 62 mph. I guestimate I was doing about 69mph & had another 800 rpm left, but not the power to get it there. fyi I have 30" tires.

Welcome to the forum. We will all be interested to find out if Joyner came through on the new 2011 Trooper. On previous models there were many improvements to be made. First thing you MUST do is change out that filter with a K&N. Even better would be to either do a snorkel or some sort of air box for it along with the K&N. The stock filters do nothing in the way of filtering out dust. It appears you are into mudding. I highly recommend a fuel controller for the best bang for your buck in torque & hp gain. Silverbullet Motorsports has these. They also have a camshaft upgrad which we are waiting to hear some feed back from one of the members on a stock motor. AND, stay tuned for Lenny's dyno results on his supercharged Trooper. How do the stock shocks ride in your opinion? Supposedly they have been upgraded, but honestly they look the same as previous models only they now have blue coils.

Man they look nice when they are new.

Without having my Trooper here to look at, the only thing I can envision would be some sort of divorced transfer case set up. It would have to be small & compact. It would most likely involve moving the motor around too. The problem is you have to transfer the output of the transmission into the transfercase then to the diffs. I think the design of our transmission takes up too much space because it a transmission/transfercase combo already. You'd be essentially adding a second transfer case. This has been done on rock crawlers, but only on very long wheel base ones (like pickups). It would be sweet if China came up with a selectable Hi/Lo transmission for ours.

Ordered mine. Came with couplers & shipped to my house for $400--unbelievable price! I just hope it doesn't show up and have Joyner Manufacturing stamped on the side

Well, I guess I won't be taking the trooper out this weekend after all. I was changing my diff fluids last night when I noticed my rear upper diff mount was cracking where the right ear is welded to the frame. The lower left was begining to crack. I have heard talks of two different styles of rear diff mounts. My trooper is a 2008. Not sure if the newer style mounts came on those or not. I looked at these before I went to Moab not long ago and they were fine. I am sure I probably did it when I went went through some deep mud pits with the 30" tires. I guess now would be a good opportunity to do my diff upgrade and lower my rear diff. Also, I keep finding all the lead China stopped putting in there paint. Someone keeps filling my diff up with it. I change my diff fluid regularly and I can't believe how much sludge keeps coming out. I hope they have addressed this on the new troopers. The good thing is I haven't had any parts or pieces come out yet. I also get sludge on my engine oil drain plug China needs to hire some new metallurgists.

Ready to go here. Can we pay them direct & have them ship to our houses? It will be nice to be able to leave one hand on the shifter & one on the wheel.

I would be interested in the powersteering. 2010 Mods: Lenny's steering tightening kit K&N filter Brembo front brakes Rear Cage & Seat Moved front headlights 2011 Mods: Dual rate Fox 2.0 10.5" coiliovers all 4 corners. Lowered front diff Custom front shock hoops Geo Metro Uni-boot CV boots--these work great! Suspension travel increased (14" rear, 12.5" front) 30" 540 Dominators Powdercoated wheels gloss black Fuel controller Custom air intake & K&N filter wrap (pulls air from inside cab) 3/8" UHMW underneath cab & 1/4" aluminum skid plate underneath diffs & tranny (bottom is completely flush) Silverbullets upgraded ball joints Sunbrella roof Rear nets to keep kid arms in & brush from hitting them Future 2011 mods: Powersteering if we get a great deal Manual 4x4 Rear suspension arm re-engineer (goal-lighter/stronger) Rear air bump stops Rear sway bar Different harnesses Underhood storage Cams (if we could ever get some performance data) Lenny's supercharger kit

Lenny, Let me be more specific. I was talking 120 crank hp. I would be more than happy with 90 rwhp. Factor in a 25-30% horsepower loss to the rear wheels and we are right at 120 crank hp. The factory RZR XP puts out 88 crank hp and 65 rwhp which ends up being about a 26% hp loss. I would imaging our Troopers have even more loss to the rear wheels (I could be wrong). I would factor at least a 30% loss for ours. I figure by adding the fuel controller I am back to the 85 crank hp as advertised. That would leave me with 60 rwhp. Based off the seat of my pants calculations and running with my friends RZR S & RZR 4 I think these are pretty accurate figures. So, your Trooper is putting out about 100 crank hp. That is impressive. I would be happy with that! Did you get any torque readings?

Wow, 280 miles in nothing. My fan stopped working a short while after I bought it. I read on here to upgrade from a 10 amp fuse to a 15 amp--no problems since. The direct switch to the fan does not sound factory. Is there a fuse between the switch & the fan? I would add one if there is not (15 amp). I believe all Trooper fans run constantly if the engine is running. So, your set up should work as long as you don't forget to switch it on. Well, we all have reasons for buying our Troopers. Mine was potential & price. My friend has $19k into his RZR S and there is only 1 thing his machine clearly exceeds mine in. That is accelleration while climbing a hill since he has a CVT, and I have to downshift and keep my machine at high RPM's. We are pretty much stuck in our powerband. One nice thing about ours over CVT's is that when he approaches a steep obstical he has to completely stop & shift into low, where we can keep momentum & down shift. If I ever get around to adding a supercharger, then the only thing the RZR S will be better at is gas mileage. I hope to even give the RZR XP a run for its money. Unless I put the Trooper on a serious diet, I estimate I will need about 120 hp to do that.

Plumber, can we get an update on the Cams? Hows it going? Smooth install? Is it tuned in? Torque increase? Can't wait for some feedback on a stock motor!

Well, I hope you got a great deal on it with the intent of putting money into it. I bought mine for $5k knowing I would need to put at least $2-3k into it on improvements. I say that because I would spend a chunk of money on new shocks. If you do this, 70% of your squeeks, creeks, & rattles will go away; AND, you won't worry about new/softer tires anymore--shocks will take care of both. I have about $8500 into it now, and I have a rock crawling, desert cruising, rocky mountain trails machine. However, I still have plenty of mods on the list (better master cylinders, front 2x4 fix, swaybar, cams, supercharger, etc, etc, etc?). First though, you must get rid of that rear u-joint shaft. I am supprised yours still has one. Was it in storage for a long time? Definately do the filter/intake. Lenny's steering kit is a huge improvement. Best thing is it is adjustable. Silverbullets fuel controller is a nice improvement in torque, but gas mileage goes down. Mine gets about the same as my buddys RZR S now. Brakes: The reason for the stiff pedal is because the master cylinders are oversized in comparison to the calipers. They are putting out a lot of volume instead of pressure. If we went to smaller bore master cylinders we would see a great improvement. There would be more pressure directed to the calipers. Your pedal would go in more and you would experience more grab/feel in the brakes. Or, you can match the master cylinders with larger brakes, but really you would need automotive size calipers and they just wouldn't fit. Lenny has added two trooper brake calipers in the front, and he says his stops great. He has doubled his caliper piston volume and the brake pad surface. I have added Brembo brakes to the front of mine. This is a custom mod. The pistons on these are the same size of the Troopers, but there are two pistons instead of one. The braking did improve, but it is still not where I want it. Although I am pushing the same volume as Lenny, he has twice the brake pad contact as I. The only downside to his is added weight. I am looking into possible master cylinder options now.

I found the info on the surge tank--thanks! I am liking this one I found online: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=FST02 If it works out I will update the forum.

Kinarfi, Does the surge tank eliminate the engine dying while going down steep declines? Where did you mount yours? I actually prefer the original (short) filler tube. Although it isn't in the most convenient location for filling, it is reasuring to me I can look inside and confirm exactly how much fuel I have. Also, I can look inside and see if there is debris in my tank--especially in the suction & return ports.

Nice to see you got it done & you have decided ruin all future offroading trips--JK!

Lenny (open to anyone who may have suggestions), Without a doubt there is much room for improvement in our stock engine. If I decide to do cams I was thinking of taking the opportunity while having the top end apart to do some head work. I know you have ported & port matched your head. Did you do this yourself? I would most likely have a machine shop do mine. If I do drop it off to a machine shop what do you recommend I have done? I was thinking of porting, port matching & polishing. Is there anything else you'd suggest? I posted it here because I thought others may be having similar thoughts. Thanks, Paul

Its worth the wait if it works the first time. Hopefully its because of all the extra R&D they are putting into it....or it is just taking an extra long time to reverse engineer

Klung, any word on the CVT for the 1100cc Chery motor? I also sent a PM.

I have noticed it depends on the situation. The only time I have noticed mine has gotten hot was running uphill about 40mph with the ambient temp being in the 90's. I am not sure what the actual temp was but I remember the needle almost touching the red so I let off the throttle and just cruised. My stock temp gauge seems to work well; however, others have complained about the accuracy of theirs and replaced it with a good aftermarket one. If you feel that the operating conditions don't justify the temperature increase I would start with a new gauge. If that doesn't work you can mount your radiator up into the airflow as many have done on this website. That option doesn't work for me, so when I supercharge or turbo my trooper I will swap with a bigger radiator and dual fans. In theory, your temp light should come on as soon as the needle touches the red zone on your gauge. As to the actual temp degree that is I am unaware.

Rick, So this makes me wonder. Since there is no Joyner USA and you say they are in the states now...where are they? Wouldn't they have to come to the dealers directly? Why would it take a few weeks to get to your door? Sounds like a slow truck from China as well. Thanks, Paul

happy birthday rick! if you take care of yourself like you do your trooper you should last a very long time.

I find my Trooper to be relatively stable at speed, but it could be better. While talking to my buddy with the RZR S after doing some high speed driving down the same trail, I mentioned my trooper felt a little "floaty" and that I was a little sketchy around corners. He mentioned his RZR felt the same way. However, I would assume his is a little more stable since he has front & rear sway bars. I am looking into swaybar options. I am going to start with a rear one first. I am getting a ton of sway in the rear end due to the dual rate shocks. When first got my Trooper I would run almost everything with the rear locker engaged. I kept hearing a banging in the rear of the buggy, but it sounded as though it was coming from the suspension. It wasn't until my 2nd trip to Moab that I realized the banging was due to the rear locker being engaged and it would cause a banging noise when weight would shift in the rear end. Now I only run it when necessary--no more banging.