2scoops

I am into the whole thing undert $1500 (cage, seats, & belts). The seat? I just know about the Rhino seat, but I do know it is 42 wide, but if you are only hauling 1 then you can much smaller as save some more money. Twisted Stitch is what Sandworks sells. They are great seats for the money. You can see I have hinges in the rear so I can tilt the whole thing back to get at the motor. When I go out with my buddys I remove it--takes about 10 min. Post some pics of you ride? Did you buy it local? How much?

I think your assumption that every aftermarket builder has built shocks for a Trooper is incorrect. For one, if anyone other than King had built a Trooper specific shock, you would have found it here on this forum. Second, why would they invest their time and money into a UTV that was built for roughly two years, company is no longer in business, and doesn't appear to be resurfacing anytime soon. To custom build a shock just for a Trooper--there just isn't any money in it for them. We owners are our own customer support and research and developement departments. As far as the King "secret information", have you called King? I have, and they told me exactly what spring rates they put on their shocks, and I posted it in this forum. I did not ask lengths because I already had my shocks. I am also suprised that someone hasn't chimed in about the specifics of their very own King set up; but, at $2600 I think they are a rare breed. On that note, have you contacted Tobefast (where you got the picture from) and asked them some specifics on their set up? Also, I think Silverbullet has run Kings if I am not mistaken. It can't hurt to ask. Now, I know you read my post about my 8.5" shocks fitting after I grinded down the swing arm slightly, and since you haven't done that yet, I assume you deemed that unacceptable. So, I would HIGHLY recommend you instead cut the rear mount off and move it until it doesn't make contact. While you are doing this knock out two birds with one stone and put a beef up plate underneath the rear mount. Banjow Minnow had his rear shock bust right though the swingarm once. The metal is already really thin there and if has rust.....it is a MUST do upgrade the older your Trooper gets. Keep the questions coming, but also let us know what you find out elsewhere--good luck!

I have added a rear seat. I had plans to do so long before I bought the Trooper. I figured if a RZR can do it, then a Trooper will have more than enough space--and I was right. I used a 42" twisted stitch 3 place seat, which fits perfectly, and I had a local company called Sandworks build me a cage on short notice for $1000. They do rear RZR cages and that is how I found them. I have added rear side nets to keep all arms & legs inside and to keep brush from hitting my little occupants. My 7 year old, who is about 49" tall has over a foot of head room. The cage and seat ended up weighing almost exactly the same amount as the stock dump bed. I haul my 7, 4, and 2 year olds in the back which equates to about 110 lbs total. Have no fear, with the T2's wheelbase and wide stance it is totally stable. Its wheelbase is longer than most competition rock crawlers and it is way lower. You can check my gallery: http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/album/47-my-t2/

I have asked Klung to look into some 4 piston front calipers which would bolt up to the Trooper. If we want to improve braking we either need more piston to compensate for excess volume being displaced by our current dual master cylinder set up, or a master cylinder/cylinders with a smaller bore to increase pressure.

It is poor rubber chemistry which is causing them to go bad. As a matter of fact, every piece of rubber on my Trooper is cracking. I hope this has been addressed on your buggys.

Oooo, oooo, that is what I am talking about! See all of the space between the axle and the trailing arm--that is all untapped travel waiting to be used! I ended up with over 13.5 inches of travel with my Fox 8.5" shocks. That is without lowering the rear diff. I did have to remove the fenders though.

Are people using limiting straps with the Kings? I was under the impression that they WERE the only bolt on option which required no modification, and they should install themselves for $2600. People HAVE said the Kings work great, so just contact Silverbullet or one of the other vendors and they'll take care of you. Ahhhh, now you are going to mention price--this is he exact same feelling the rest of us had. Welcome to the downward spiral of uber-complicated suspension modification that is the Joyner Trooper. I think the main reason many of us have modified the stock suspension is because we saw much potential beyond just changing shocks. I have already posted a ton of info here, but you have probably already read it: http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2117-new-shocks/page__st__40 Also, I can tell you that although the rear corners of the trooper weights have been documented around 480 & 520, there is actually about 800lbs of pressure on the rear shocks due to leverage of the swingarm in its stock location. When I put a sole 400lb spring on it compressed 2 inches. Thus if you put an 800lb spring on it should compress 1 inch. Although I have modified my front suspension, the angle of the shock only changed by about 10 degrees. I found that a 100lb spring compressed 4 inches. Thus, there is 400lbs of pressure on the front shocks. Now, you consider most Troopers only have about .25 to .5 inch of droop on the stock shocks when static, you can start to see why it feels so stiff. They have probably taken a 350 lb spring (front) & a 600 lb spring (rear) and preloaded it so that the trooper retains its factory rated ground clearance. Well, doing this made it stiff. There is probably around 1000lbs of presure on the rear shock and around 600 in the front. So, if you want to make it instantly softer, just back off the preload. Understand you will then lose ground clearance as the shocks compress. This is why some of us have been seeking more droop in the suspension, so we can have a soft ride, not lose ground clearance, and overall have more travel. I suggest you take the info from this forum and combine it with one afternoon in the garage. Take your stock shocks off and see exactly how much travel you are comfortable with squeezing out of YOUR suspension (I removed my fenders completely to maximize it). I say this because there is more to be had depending on what you are willing to sacrifice. Get your measurements and find a shock with the right lengths in extended and compressed positions. Also, you will want to determine how much droop you want on the shock shaft. Then, you can figure out your spring rates. Or, you can use what King suggests. Make sure they know you are looking for a HEAVY Joyner Trooper though. Most of the companys I talked to assume it is a Joyner Sand Spider or something and suggest rates which are way too low.

I am not a timing/fuel mixture/air ratio guru, but it seems the extra torque developed at low end by this controller is due to the extra gas being pumped in the cylinder. Take that away and you lose the torque gained from using this fuel controller. It is a fair trade off to me. I can't quantify the difference this controller makes, but I didn't notice much of a difference in acceleration. It was all low end. In Moab, the first day out my left foot instinctively kept reaching for the clutch when I would come up to an obstical. In the past I had two options: get some momentum and overtake the obstical, or slowly hit it and manipulate the clutch and gas to get over it. By the middle of the first day in Moab with the fuel controller, I started to get acustommed to it. I found I could hit an obstical slowly, then just use all gas pedal to get over it. It was very similar to an automatic. I was really worried that I had purchased to big & heavy of a tire (30" 540 Dominators) and that I might regret the power & torque loss. When the tires arrived at my door, they were way heavier than I anticipated. After the Moab trip, well,I will never go to anything smaller--they were awesome! Made my buddys RZR S look like a remote control car. I attribute this all to the fuel controller.

I would like to know what hp you end up getting out of that supercharger.

Mine is at 1326. Bought it with about 800 km on it. I have some catching up to do.

Time to size them up boys. After looking at Kinarfi's impressive 6800 KM's logged on his Trooper, it really got me wondering--does anyone have more than that?

Rocmoc, are you skipping posts again? I was being facetious in response to the Joyner owners manual warning. I am guilty of messing with the 4x4 while the vehicle is moving. Usually due to the fact that I was trying to get it to engage cause it wouldn't at a standstill. Never had anything bad come out of it, especially to the extent of the "vehicle being destroyed".

That would help alot--thanks.

Bad news guys. I was rolling foward at about 3mph and tried to engage the 4x4. Luckily, I was wearing my fire retardant suit and a helmet--the trooper blew up and is now completely destroyed! Gotta love the Chinese interpretation.

Thanks Rick, thanks Lenny. It seems to me I may be having an alignment issue. Maybe there is some damage in there. Without having an owners manual in front of me, is our 4x4 system designed to be engaged on the fly? What instructions does it give on engaging the 4x4 system?

Yeah, mine was a brand new box when I bought the trooper. The previous owner I believed replaced it cause he didn't think anyone would buy it without the 4x4 working. It worked OK when I first got it, but it was still intermittent/finicky. But then after a while I could hear the motor constantly trying to engage/disengage--then it finally burnt out. Being in 4x4 the entire Moab trip was a real fun killer. I couldn't whip the tail end around and powerslide.

So no issues with your manual 4x4 going in & out? No delays? I am trying to figure out if I should tear my front diff down and take a look as to why it is so finicky.

Ok, so I built a manual 4x4 shifter for my Moab trip. Worked great in the garage when on jacks. Engaged/disengaged, spun the wheels, engaged/disengaged. Then, I got out in the dirt and it wasn't reliable. It just didn't want to in & out of 4x4. So, as I have read in some posts, a few members pointed the original problem with the 4x4 as being the electric actuator--which is a POS. I could hear my electric actuator constantly trying to engage & disengage--to the point of the motor burning up. I believe some pointed to the internal limiting switch. So, I thought a manual mechanism would fix my issue. Now my issue seems to be the internal workings (I have never had my front diff apart) of the front to be the issue. It seems to be real finicky about being precisely aligned when there is any kind of load on the diff. I know others have built manual 4x4 mechanisms. Has anyone experienced similar issues? Is there a trick to get it to reliably go into 4x4 or does it slide in nice & easy? Lastly, once I figure out if it is just MY front diff being the issue, I have been playing around with the ideas of an air actuated front 4x4. I am thinking of installing a powertank under the hood anyway and I stumbled across this: http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/OnlineStore/tabid/438/CategoryID/22/List/1/Level/a/ProductID/132/Default.aspx Or electric: http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/OnlineStore/tabid/438/CategoryID/32/List/1/Level/a/ProductID/236/Default.aspx

I wish I could make it and meet all of the trooper legends, but it is just not in the cards for me this year. My summer is uber-packed with family events.

I played around with my rear suspension tonight and came up with some interesting figures. I wanted to put pen to paper/keystroke to computer before I forget. I have not lowered my rear diff. With my 8.5 inch Fox shocks bolted in the stock location I had 13.75 inches of rear wheel travel on the right side (limited by the CV shaft contacting the swingarm). There was 1.25 inches of shaft showing at this point. The right side had 15 inches of rear wheel travel (limited by my 30 inch tire contacting the frame). There was .75 inches of shaft showing. Keep in mind I have removed my rear fenders and the bracket to which they bolt in order to achieve this much up-travel. FYI- with 400lb springs, my rear shocks compressed 2 inches. This info can help you determine your spring rates. I am still working on a good rear dual spring rate for my application. As for my front shocks I am running an 8 inch 250 over a 10 inch 225 with 1.25 inches of preload. I am very happy with this and I don't plan on changing. The only other rate I would consider would be a straight 250lb spring. My front end is super soft. It does lean like a tropy truck in a turn with the dual rate. If you don't want this then I would go with a 250 or 300 lb. With 30 inch tires there is 14 inches between the ground and the bottom of the front of my frame. I have about 3.5 inches of droop.

Yes and yes. I have been thinking about re-engineering the rear trailing arm since I noticed my right rear wheel is misaligned by 1". Now I have another reason since your mishap in Moab. I do like the design of the RZR XP after seeing it. I took some measurements from one of the rental RZR XP's in Moab. I was suprised to find that the trailing arm on the XP was significantly longer than ours. It was about 35+ inches long. If our trailing arm was that long I think we could get 15" or more of rear wheel travel (with new shocks of course). We would only be limited by the CV joints and the tire contacting the chassis (at least if you are running over 27" tires). Also, as you recall pointing out on my Trooper in Moab, the current design limits our travel because the CV shaft contacts both the upper and lower tubes of the trailing arm when fully compressed and at full droop (with 8.5 inch or longer shocks). I probably won't get serious about this project until next winter when the Trooper will have alot of down time. Let me know if and when you are going to do something with yours and we will exchange ideas.

I think they are the same or similar. I guess the price of the one at Tobefast is due to the programmer and wiring harness. Still seems a little steep to me.

It will be a difficult task to execute a CVT which will properly work in our Troopers at 1800lbs but not impossible. I truely hope it can be done. We will be very skeptical of its strength and reliability, so please make information available on your website (schematics, testing, video, etc). We won't by transmission that doesn't feel factory so someone will HAVE to test it on a Joyner Trooper. If it proves to work well I believe you will sell many.

Klung Motors responded to one of my emails about an E manage computer. It appears to be the exact same computer seen here: http://www.tobefast.com/joyner-1100-trooper-computer-c-63650-p-1-pr-10000958-f-64523.html He quoted me $350

My driveway is a 20% incline and my trooper idles up it at 900 rpm with the 30" 540 dominator tires. The tires are also about 15-20lbs heavier a piece than the stockers. My trooper needed some pedal input to climb the driveway before with the 27" stock tires. In Moab, there were obsticals I would normally have to manupulate the clutch to get over. With the fuel controller I was able to let my left foot take a nap & just used the gas pedal. My fuel consumption did go up about 30-40%.