2scoops

At over 3500k Miles on my trooper. My a arm joints were shot. Ordered new from joyner USA but sent them back. I felt they were low quality especially for $25 a piece. They were nylon injected but the nylon was loose inside the end. I expected more for $25 a piece. And honestly the original heims were clearly higher quality. It concerns me that Joyner may be supplying lesser quality parts than they used to. I ended up ordering QA1 time joints from eBay for $19 apiece they are also nylon injected but higher quality. The part number is : QA1 MXMR16 Rod End (X) Endura Alloy Ht M-R 16Mm-16Mm May want to pin this in part section of this forum.

Some issues we will encounter with this engine: Electronic throttle control How to lock up the tranny. Welding the tranny diff (transaxle) together would probably work Would need shifter and linkage Having a whole donor car would be the way to go.

Glad you figured it out. At the end of the season last year Mine was dieing on me when coming off throttle from time to time. Then it didn't want to start afterward. I found oil in the intake and on the intake sensors. Also found a suspect air leak in a cracked intake rubber plug. Cleaned the sensors and filled the plug with rtv and is running great. Keep an eye on rubber parts. They are always cracking.

Silver bullet, Sad you don't know my vast experience with the trooper. I am one of the few veteran owners on here. You should be calling me for advice. spam, imho

Likes: Engine, differentials, axles (old style that are huge!), leg room, manual, built in lug nut/parts trays in the hood, untapped potential, looks (even after 9 years!), rear selectable locker, tube chassis, steering box mounted in front for better control, trailing arm suspension, beefy front a arms which are factory reinforced, factory suspension seats, factory 5 pt harness, overkill bolt sizes, wheelbase, mine has been very reliable! Dislikes: Stock shocks, gauge quality, brakes, odd sizes of insanely huge chassis bolts, fuel tank brackets, small transmission output shaft, weight, upright position of stock seats, stock air filter, quality of suspension and steering joints, stock roll cage strength. I'd like to point out all your name brand company's have the same and sometimes even more issues and that's what keeps the hundreds of aftermarket companies in business. Wish Joyner had more aftermarket support...

frustrating they do so many things right with the trooper and some key stuff wrong.

Jeff, Curious how you came up with rear shock mount placement? Is that where you had it on your last rig? What is the total travel? With the additional weight of my 32" tires I need to adjust my rebound.

Very cool.

You upgraded your axles? Was there an upgrade?

Adios Dan. Remind me are you replacing it with something else? Il

Put 32" IPT ultra cross r spec on my trooper. They great tires on the slick rock no balancing needed. For now I used a big hammer to make them fit, but will do something cleaner in the future.

1.4L dimensions.

Are these trailing arm bushings?

Are the axles you have new? I am interested in any axle parts you can part with. What do you have?

Welcome. Glad to have you on board

Agreed, stay away from belt driven cv's with this heavy machine. Especially since the belt will be made in china. The Joyner rubber products has be been the worst!

Anyone have an outer cv joint ball cage? Mine is cracked up. Other than that it's a good axel. Please let me know

Lol, of course I have. That's why I have a suzuki samurai parts car sitting in my yard. I was planning on starting with a transfer case install. I am also thinking about a rear axle install only with front ifs, but matching gearing will be tough. If you go full solid axle you WILL miss the ride of the independent suspension.

Make sure you take the time to spilt it apart and seal it with rtv or you can plan on replacing it again.

I just ordered a heavy duty steering rack for a rzr 1000 with tierods and tie rod ends. The rzr rack is not perfect but is 1.5 to 2 inches narrower than ours so bumpsteer will be better. I will keep you updated on how it goes. If Joyners didn't have oddball sizes and thread counts on everything i would stick with our rack and modify it. Additionally our tierod end and heims aren't quality. They wear out WAY too soon.

Lookin good. I am busy figuring out how I can improve our steering geometry since my steering rack mount ripped off the frame after years of abuse rockcrawling. This due to insane bump steer which power steering has been absorbing and i didn't know how much force was being jolted through the mount everytime i hit a rock. I am proud of our design in that it is mounted in front of the A arms. Now all the hard core rzr race teams are moving their racks to the front, so one positive there. Then I want to mount a suzuki transfer case where the battery is now. Insane low gearing and front dig. ..it would be so awesome.

It all depends on your price point. I have had great luck with my 2008 trooper. It has never left me stranded. Newer models aresupposed to be more reliable. The biggest drawback is you can't just go drop it off at the dealer for repairs. You need to be handy and do the upkeep and maintenance. Parts are avaliable, but quality can be an issue. I usually try to upgrade parts such as tierods, cv boots, air filter, etc when possible. That way you can often just go to a local automotive parts store to get what you need. I can afford a higher end machine, but the trooper does everything I need it to so it's hard to justify. Plus, I trust it more for reliability than my wifes wildcat. But that it because I upgraded critical areas which needed to be addressed on older models.

Anyone have a 2008 Trooper front wheel they are willing to part with?

Rich, Last time I posted on this topic was 2011. I am not sure where you are going with this. So, 6 years later...what exactly is the release date of this takeforever charger?