2scoops

Significantly more fuel consumption. After riding with Banjo Minnow all day when he was at about 1/2 tank I was close to empty. I didn't touch the fuel controller from the factory settings. I was happy with it. I may play around with it later. My driveway is a 20% incline and my trooper idles up it at 900 rpm with the 30" tires. The tires are also about 15-20lbs heavier a piece than the stockers.

Moab was a blast! Thanks to Landon & his group for showing me some new trails. Trails done: Hells Revenge (wife drove) Poison Spider Hey Joe Canyon Fins & Things Determination Towers & more Obsticals: Hells Gate Tip Over Challenge (entire family on board) Car wash (wife drove) V-Notch The Waterfall & countless steep walls Carnage: Lt front CV boot kept pulling off. I think it was due to the new long travel suspension at full droop in a hard turn. Gotta figure that one out. Notes: New suspension was super soft, but I need to work on the rebound & compression valving. Fuel controller worked great. I only stalled the Trooper twice the entire trip. Once on Hells Gate & once in Hey Joe Canyon--both were avoidable

Posted some pics in my gallery.

Done! Posted some pics in my gallery. Moab here I come!

Drove it around today. Definately was a power gain. When it was running in the garage, it smelled like it was running richer.

Wish you were there too. Sounds like we will be greatly out numbered by RZR's

Eventually I will be looking into redesigning the swingarm completely, especially since my rt rear swingarm is 1" out of alignment anyway . I think it is poorly executed and can be much more simple and stronger--saving some weight. I like the prospect of the design they used on the RZR XP: http://sxsnews.com/index.php/vehicle-features/polaris-rzr-900-xp/

I will be there as well with my family and my buddy and his family. I will send you an email with my phone number.

Lenny, you said there is no room for something--that't the first!

I have heard much mention of engine possibilities and auto trannys. What about a 2 speed transfer case? Do you think it would be possible? It would solve our low end torque issues. I haven't done any digging into the motor or trans. What have you guys seen? Out of the realm of possibility?

Does anyone know of a good replacement battery for a T2? Part #? Make? Mine went dead (I think one of my kids left the key on) & I took it in to have it checked out at Autozone. As usual they said the battery is bad, but I am skeptical because they charged it in order to test it and it seems to be working normal. But, just in case...I think I might just buy a new one. Edit- Just found this post: FYI, Autozone stocks a direct replacement, 51-DLG. Exact fit, low maintenance, 3 year replacement - $95.00. Randy. Unless anyone has knows of any other options?

I could do something with that. If the drivetrain is solid, that could be a fun machine. It looks extremely light. I can see there is no firewall though.

It seems to me that he is just an entrepreneur trying to capitalize on an opportunity. He probably got wind that we are experiencing difficulty getting some parts here in the States, and he, being right there in China, has access to what we need. He might be a good source if we need to do a group buy of something. His cars look like they use similar parts as Joyners--so some junk, some good. You know what they say "everything comes from China".

I will put some up soon. One thing I forgot to mention was the springs. I am going to try 350 over 400 for starters. Like I said earlier, King claims they use 300 but that seems too low to me unless you pre-load the hell out of it. Also, Flatbed, who knows his stuff about suspension, said the a 300 in the rear felt a little soft. I will keep you posted on what I discover.

Well, I just finished my front suspension (lowered front diff & shock hoops) and finally got around to messin' with the rear. I was able to bolt in my 8.5 inch Fox coilover to the factory mounts without lowering the diff. However, the right swing arm did contact the CV shaft. So, I grinded of about 1/8" of material from the swing arm where it was contacting I aint' scerd. So, if that is acceptable for you, then there is your answer for the rear. Or, I could have moved the lower shock mount back a little and wouldn't have had to grind anything--whatever you find easiest. I will eventually be lowering my diff, but it won't be till' after Moab. Also, I gained about an inch and a half of travel with the new shocks. The bolt holes in the shock are 1/2" so I drilled out the T2 shock mounts to 5/8" and used 1/2 X 5/8 X 1 spacers (Lowes hardware dept). Then I cut them in half and ground them down until I foung the fit I liked. If anyone out there makes a shock with an extended length of 22"-23", no more than 23", then they should bolt in with only having to figure out how to bolt them up (depending on the bolt they accept).

So Cal--Murrieta to be exact. His AFCO shocks look sweet! I have talked to him more on the phone this week than I have my own wife.

My first suggestion is don't email. Only speak with people on the phone. Calling someone shows them you are truely interested. I recommend Steve at Makintrax because even though I told him up front I already had my shocks he still helped me, AND he even returned my phone calls--amazing in this day in age. He knows what he is talking about, and he would like to market his products for the Joyner if he could get his hands on one. He could very well be a constant, relibable, and cheaper alternative to King Shocks if we can get him a T2 or T4 to work with. When dealing with Joyner owners you are dealing with a majority that likes messin' & tinkerin' wit stuff. I am absolutely impressed with the level of effort members on this forum HAVE put into passing on information. If it weren't for each other all of our machines would eventually see a boneyard, or we might eventually succumb to selling our machines due to lack of vendor support. I believe the information you seek is out there. Don't worry, as fellow T2 owner, we will get you taken care of

The only off-the-shelf option right now is the Kings at $2600--unless you want to buy the new T2 shocks, which I wouldn't waste my money on. They don't look any different from we already have, just new and shiny. So, you can go high-end or low-end if you don't want to make any modifications to your stock suspension. If you are willing to modify then, as you have discovered, there are lots of different routes. If you want a trophy truck ride then you will have to make some modifications. The rear of the trooper is actually relatively easy to modify. The front is not. However, I think you'd be happy with just an upgraded shock from stock tuned to your liking. If you don't want to get too extreme into fabrication, I would start off by removing the stock shocks and seeing if there is any extra suspension travel that is there to be had before your CV's or suspension components bind. Take your measurement in the middle of the shock mount eyes in both full droop and full compressed. Then, try and find a quality shock that will fit. However, I cannot confirm or deny if there is much more travel to be had over the stock configuration...someone else on this forum has probably already taken this measurement. However, each of our vehicles is slightly different, so I would take your own measurements. And, your acceptable limits might be very different than someone else's. If there is a shock that is close, you can always use limiting straps to ensure you don't over-extend your suspension and bump stops can be used to limit compression. I have lowered my front diff to achieve 12.25" of travel. In full extension I am limited to 12.25" and after that my CV joints binding. I have factored in about 1/4"-3/8" of wiggle room. In full compression I am limited to my steering tie rods binding. If you can get an honest 10" without lowering your diff, you should be more than happy. Now, for the fun part--springs. I called King and they said they run 200lb on the front & 300lb on the rear. Personally that seems too low. But, if you crank the preload down, they may work. Call Steve at Makintrax suspension. He is willing to let you use used springs until you find the rate you are happy with if you purchase the springs from him. You know what, for that matter once you take your compressed & extended measurements, just call him. He can also outfit you with affordable, quality shocks. I think he may even offer an external adjustable rebound/compression shock now. Then, once you have come up with something you are happy with POST IT! You will save others from pulling their hair out as you will soon be doing

Ordered a fuel controller today.

8.5 inch fox. I think the extended length is 23.35 inches. If you could find some shocks that are 21 inches extended you wouldn't have to build shock hoops. The factory shocks are 20 inches extended. I just really thought my droop would increase more than 1 inch at the shock mount bolt holes. At the wheels it translates into more. BUT, I think everyones rides are unique...you may be able to get more. Anwer me this question, When you look at your front CV's at ride height, are the ends perfectly inline (diff and wheel), or are they offset? Which direction?

Thanks to Dedub for finding the info on this. So, looking at the info at Dobeck Performance you installl and adjust this controller--right? Its not plug and play. In order to get maximum performance from our individual machines won't we all have to do what Dedub did and take it to a dyno and adjust it?