2scoops

Matt, what is the cost for the cam and install? I never was sold on the cam mainly because it's just a regrind right? And I never saw any performance numbers, just seat of the pants reviews. Most of those were in conjunction with other upgrades also. Plumber, if you are saying there is a big difference then I take your word for it. I am not opposed to going to a new tranny & engine. Problem is finding a fwd tranny with a super low first gear. The output shaft is the weak link in the drivetrain. I looked at having one built out of 300M. They wanted $1200. Little to steep for me.

Out of curiosity can you see if there are any bigger motors chery makes that would bolt up to our current transmission? Need mo powa, but I don't want to do a turbo if it can't be tuned. And yes I have the fuel controller.

Awesome to hear. Just awesome.

Recent trip to Moab went great. Trooper performed flawlessly. It out climbs my wife's wildcat and my buddies rzr 4 800. It also out climbs most rzr 1000's because they are afraid to do the climbs I do (scared to damage it). I have the suspension dialed in and the sway bar is an absolute necessity with the dual rate springs. I didn't bottom out once even with a 95lb rear seat/cage and two kids in it. This and I also have the most comfortable rides of the rzr & wildcat I the rocks.

Have you tried Joyner USA?

Porsche differentials are the strongest independent diffs I know of.

Yeah. They are off a motorcycle. I just ordered them off ebay. They are dual piston one on each side. Then I made a mounting bracket out of plate steel.

My brembo upgrade stops a lot better.There should be a pic in my gallery. The only thing that sucks is they aren't a floating caliper and they squeal more than I would like. I think there could be much improvement if it had a single master cylinder.

Big'n if you read through this forum and fix or upgrade all the stuff we have run into before you head out it is a very reliable machine. I can't bear to part with mine. I just like being different. Most of us do here and we are all in good company.

Very cool. If I had parts I would give them to you as a winners prize. Does Joyner carry those parts? Or just the whole diff?

Just before I went on the ride where I broke my output shaft I checked all my bolts. These were loose so I tightened them and stripped them so I can visually see when the start to loosen. Jeffs suggestion is definitely a better long term solution.

I got the quote back. 300m shaft was $1250 plus $400 for tooling and programming. Any shafts after that were a bargain price of $1175. This is double what I was willing to spend. I guess I'll get stock a shaft and run it until it breaks...

The broken shaft is on its way to Mark Williams Ent. I really hope the can copy it in a stronger material...

Man this is getting frustrating. I have contacted 6 different companies about building a new shaft and I have only heard back from one. They said they don't build shafts for go carts--lol. I am awaiting one more company which I know can do it if they have the correct cutter for the splines, but they wanted to know pitch angle of the splines and I am not sure how to measure that. I sent them a bunch of pictures and I am hoping they can determine it off of those.

Pics of what I cut.

Transmission out without touching the engine. 3 cuts under the passenger seat and notched the frame behind the passenger seat-- came right out. Now I will make the piece I cut out a bolt on and patch & weld the notch closed. I will be able to pull a tranny in an hour now.

Looks good. Now you will have a little extra piece of mind. The v bracing is a must if you are using the stock cage. Be sure to send us a pic when you are all done.

Anyone have a clue as to what the shaft might be made out of? I will keep researching, but I will need to know this in order to get it heat treated.

I will have to check the box and see if the seals are in there. I bought them awhile ago and you thinking.

Still on my original wheel bearings. I have two roller bearings on hand... Just waiting.

Does anyone know the most outer width of the shaft? If I can find an axle company with raw stock thick enough they may be able to make one.

I am also going to look at modifying the chassis so that the tranny can be pulled without removing the engine. This should be fun

I was in 4 wheel drive, but I don't think my rear locker was engaged. I had lever engaged, but I don't think it was working. I think my cable needs adjustment.

Went out yesterday for a casual trip up Farmington Canyon which is a few minutes from my house. We were about 3/4 trough our planned trip for the day. We veered off a rarely traveled trail due to it being steep, loose, and rocky. The final part of the climb was steepest and just over the top was the crest. As my right rear tire started to climb over a loose bolder it kicked it out and I stayed on the throttle. The rear end bounced and POP...there went my rear output shaft. It was not a fun spot to try and back down. The trooper kept wanting to slide and slip sideways regardless of where I pointed the front wheels. This is my first mechanical failure on the trooper. I am sure it was fatigued from miles of hard riding and rock crawling. Anyone suggest where to buy a new one? I don't want this part to fail again. I am going to look into heat treating the new one. I will also contact some axle companies and see if they can guestimate what it would cost to build one out of 4340 or even 300M. If it is around $500 it would be worth it to me to never have to worry about this part again. I would prefer an axle or driveshaft failure. Here are some pics from the day:

I will keep an eye on mine-- thanks! I was reading my Wildcat service manual the other day. It recommends the fuel lines be replaced every 2 years. Considering the bad Chinese rubber we know is on our troopers I may be doing a fuel line replacement soon.