2scoops

I have a piece of lexan covering the engine bay. I am worried it would hit it.

Plumber, I like the intake a lot. So it was completely plug & play? Does it stick above the bed? Its hard to tell from the picture. Can you post a picture of where the throttle body comes through the front cab? How can I get one?

If you do mostly dunes I would not buy a trooper. I love mine but I don't go to the dunes often. It does great in 1st gear for short climbs but not tall dunes you have to attack with speed. If you shaved 300lbs off it would be much better, but you are still stuck with a manual gearbox. There are ratio gaps between gears unlike a CVT which by design optimizes the hp & torque to the wheels. On the positive you don't have to worry about a blown belt. If you get a turbo it will go up almost anything, but then reliability will suffer. Stock suspension is junk unless you just putt around dirt roads. Parts availability is pretty good. Especially since you can buy many parts at the local auto parts store.

Weather could have been better. We got caught in a few storms. If it were just me or just adults going I would let you know anytime go south, but I always have the kids in tow. It makes it very hard to schedule anything with anyone. I had several friends that were in Moab I didn't even meet up with. We flipped a coin everyday to decide what trail we were going to do. I was looking to go do Hanging Tree (hopefully without kids). I was going to let you know when I can go.

This picture was taken overlooking Tusher Tunnel in Moab. I was using it as a rappelling tie-off. The Trooper performed well again--zero issues. Trails we did: Hells Revenge Steel Bender Fins & Things Porcupine 4x4 Trail Tusher Tunnel & Surrounding Areas The Trooper turned a lot of heads with both UTV & 4x4ers. I love driving something unique.

Done with the cage. Cutting and chopping and fitting the rear seat kicked my a$$. It was almost as much work as building the front cage. Just some clean up and it will be ready for paint.

I have not messed with my fuel controller settings. It seems to work great out of the box. Plumber, let me know how the intake works out. I'd be interested. Is it different from just flipping your stock intake? I'd be interested in how the ports match up as well. $265 sounds about right. I think he was asking $400 at one time. How much are they if you by straight from Dobeck?

The fuel controller is what you want. An AFR isn't necessary, but a nicety. You can port match your intake & exhaust. All other power upgrades (turbo, head work) start getting expensive. I built an air filter that pulls are from the cab with a nice big k&n. I also have the fuel controller. I am pretty happy with the power for the money I spent.

Dude look out behind you! Welcome!

Are you trying to find the cause of the vibration or the noise? Sometimes the fiberglass panels have a tendancy top squeal against the frame. Can you give a general area? Once those of us who went to upgraded shocks 75% of our squeaks, knocks, and ralltles disappeared.

Yeah the downside is it may be tough to get off in the future... I'd rather deal with that when the time comes.

Yeah, I am planning on it. Spent 1hr in the garage trying to figure how best to do it.My aluminum roof is getting cut out today.

Pretty sure you won't be able to turn full lock. The tires will hit on the frame. I believe a few on here modified their frame somehow to make anything bigger than 30". Unless you do at least 50% mud I wouldn't run these.

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Little closer...

An easy fix may be to clean off all the grease with brake cleaner. This will increase the friction and possibly keep them from migrating off again. Then see if the retaining ring is doing its job. Maybe stretch it a little. Then just keep an eye on them on future rides.

So once you popped the axle back on everything was good right? I had my axle pop out of the cv once after I put my new shocks on. There was too much droop in my suspension. I have fixed that and have not had any issues since. A few times I have noticed the axle hat migrate outward from the diff, but not pop all the way off. I just wiggle it back in place with my hand. The retaining ring is not sufficient enough to hold it in its place. Lenny did a fix even NASA would be proud of to stop this from happening. It required machining. I wonder if yours vibrated off? Is the retaining ring still on the diff? Are your splines really greasy? If so that will only facilitate its moving around. Clean them with brake cleaner.

Yeah, when I take my rear seat off mine is so much less tippy. I think I estimated about 85lbs for the stock rear cage and spare tire. I run superatv dominator tires and don't even work l worry about running a spare tire. The stock tires are paper thin.

Yeah, no opinion on clutches here. Still on original with no issues. Whatever you find Lenny has mentioned I'd go with that.

So while building my cage I made one bend a couple of degrees over. It was literally 3 degrees off. So I wedged it in my tube bender, had my wife sit on it while I pulled like hell, and several attemps, and got it within one degree. So with my wife (130lbs) and me pulling my 185lb ass off all it left was a couple of small dents in the 1 3/4 .095 wall hrew I am using for half of the cage. The other half is .120 wall DOM. So once I got done getting it to shape I thought to myself that I need to see what happens if I try it with the stock cage. I wanted to know if all this effort is worth it. Well, I finally got around to it today. This is what happened with just me pulling (no wife for extra leverage) and with half my effort: If you ever had a endo in a trooper you would not walk away. Can it handle a flop or a slow sideways rollover... Probably, but an extreme impact and it will wrap around you like a street taco.

Interested in cams, but there were never any HP or torque numbers on them. So I am not sure of how big of an improvement they offer. Also interested in a big bore kit.

The metal in the diffs in normal and will never subside. That is of course large chunks & shavings shouldn't be present.

Yeah get new bolts & lock tight the hell out of them. If you can safety wire them also that would be even better if you know how to properly safety wire. The kit has upgraded bolts which Lenny machined the heads on and shims. The biggest upgrade being the bolts & liberal use of high temp lock tight. The stock bolts wiggle loose then shear off. If they stayed tight no one would have issues most likely.

A little closer to done.

Sorry Charlie. I hope I didn't offend you. I was just giving my opinion. I had some of the first gen fox. air shocks. I am sure they have made improvements since. What kind did you end up buying? I looked at buying ORI air socks for my FJ40 but they were more expensive than the rad flow coilovers I ended up with.