2scoops

I would not recommend them over regular sprung shocks. They aren't bad, but IMHO sprung shocks are better. I ran air shocks on my custom rock crawler and provide a really soft ride and are like weight. It went SLOW which they work well for. I didn't like how they would settle unevenly . I also had an issue with them leaking. I would constantly have to check pressures. When guys came down on them hard in competition they would blow out. That would suck if you were far out somewhere and have one blow out and have to limp back. This is not an issue when you run traditional springs. I don't jump my trooper, but I race it pretty hard and have bottomed out really hard a quite a few times. Not sure how many of those an air shock would take. Oh, yeah and they over heat easily when running hard. I do believe I tried talking you out of buying them too, but it sounds like you are happy with them so that is great.

No issues with mine. Reset the Ecu? I don't believe this is an option with Joyner's. Can you do it on yours?

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Good post.

I am pretty certain an 8" shock with limit straps will work great in the front. Also I would go 250lb spring in front--i did the math on the front for a single rate at one time. Not sure on the rear for a single rate. My guess would be 500-550. Banjo Minnow had a lot on here about his experience with single rate springs. I run dual rate both front and rear. And with mods have 12+ inches of travel in the front and 14-15" in the rear. Mine is a crawling machine, but is not set up for big jumps-- way too soft. I really would not recommend air shocks, but if you do plan to install air socks install a sway bar or too.

I don't remember, but it is on here. Have you searched for the answer? There is also a plethora about shocks. I am sure all of your questions can be answered if you do some searching. Are you thinking single or dual rate shocks?

Lol, I still have the noisy stock exhaust remember. People hear me coming! I would be very interested in an electronic throttle or brake control somehow mounted to the steering wheel for rock crawling. That possible?

Little closer

It will have V bracing front & rear and one tube running down the centerline of the roof. Then I will eventually add an aluminum roof. The measuring & bending is easy. Its the notching that is time consuming and monotonous. If you look at a lot of aftermarket cages the usually have less complex notching surfaces. The do this on purpose so they can hit it with a tube notchet and don't have to spend much time grinding & grinding again.

Update. Added a few more pieces. I don't get much time in the garage these days. I found that if I heat up the .120 wall Dom tubing and throw the stock tube in the freezer for 10 min it will sleeve over. I am using. 120 in a few places for strength.

I honestly think our intakes are a pretty good design they just need to be port matched. The long runners allow for torque which I think is what most of us are after. One day I will get around to flipping my intake & getting rid of the lame rubber tubing.

I will get measurements on the size I am using. It is some tube I had laying around for awhile and I don't want to give you a guess. The OD is 1 3/4 and sleeves perfectly over the stock tube. It is somewhere between .95 & .110 wall. I can tell you 1 3/4 .120 won't slide over without grinding. I am going to weld it at the tube connectors then rosett weld it a few times down the length of the tube.

Likely internal. If Lenny doesn't chime in your best bet is calling a transmission place and asking them. I haven't had any issues with my tranny yet... knock on wood.

I don't think its 1.50, but very close. I believe it is a metric size to be exact, but very close to 1.50". I think the wall diameter is close to .065...pretty thin.

I my 2008 Trooper dialed in so well I trust it more my 2012 Wildcat--no joke

Yes it does. Those are very minor. Good to hear it is holding up. The guys on the Wildcat forum have all kinds of crazy problems big and small. I just bent a tie rod on my Wildcat that would have never happened on the Trooper. They used flimsy aluminum tie rods to save weight. The Trooper isn't light but it is stout.

Started new cage. I was getting tired of the boring stock cage. I also wanted to make a stronger one. I hope to have it done by March.

Settings for Joyner Trooper: http://www.electronicjetkit.com/UTV/viewproduct.asp?partnumber=9340001

Pull the handle. I do it all the time. Matter of fact I that is my copilot's job if I have one. Its nice to use it just to slow me in technical downhills.

I think that's a great price for a 2011. I believe many of the bugs were worked out on the 2011's and up.

Fuel economy goes way down, and will be basically in line with a RZR, but it is worth it.

A fuel controller will bring it up pretty close to the advertised 85 HP, but the trooper is heavy. I don't know about the Renali. I beat my buddies rzr4 no problem on a flat road with stock tire and pre-fuel controller, if it were up a hill I am sure it would have been different.

Go uhmw. If I ever get around to it I am going to take mine to a local plastics company & have them form fit some Uhmw to the rocker panels in their oven, but I haven't really needed to yet. Yes the are scratched and have a few cracks, but nothing I can't deal with so far.

Welcome. Keep us updated on how the new models hold up. Early ones had some issues. Waterproof the electric 4x4 box on the front diff. Just take it apart and run a bead if silicone between the halves then reassemble. The stock tires are junk and prone to getting holes easily. Buy the fuel controller. It bumps it up to a true 85hp. Don't pay over $300 for it or you are getting ripped IMO.

Do any lurkers have post 2011 models? I would like to hear how they are holding up?

I almost forgot about the cams. So are you saying that Schneider should still have the specs? I was just thinking of trying to find a reputable machine shop here in Utah I could drop my head off at & get in ported, polished, & cams ground for torque.