2scoops

Dang, I threw mine away or you could have it.

I highly recommend you take at look at the splines on both the steering shaft and the steering box. If they are stripped the next time it will twist on an even less harsh bump and may knock out your steering all together. Next to new shocks, power steering was the best investment I made. I am able to drive with one hand through rocky/bouldery terrain. My friends in RZR's hate trails like that because they don't have power steering, but I don't mind them at all.

Did you hook up with the Rally on the Rocks?

Thanks to this forum my Trooper is still with me. I was able to fix issues before I hit the trail & never got stranded out in the middle of BFE. Only issues I have had on the trail were self induced.

Pictures? And I hope it works out well.

2800 miles. Worked out most bugs. Found them on google in 2009. Bought used 2008 in late 2009 for $5k.

Glad to hear you are up & running. I traced a short or bad ground in my headlights back to the fuse box by the passengers feet. Need to remember to blow it out with air once in awhile. It was full of dirt. If it get wet, that means mud, that means short.

Pull the sensor & see if its dirty.

The powersteering on my Trooper works better than my Wildcat. Even with 30" tires. Remember, if you put the front locker on it renders the powersteering useless. Only a hydro set up will allow it to turn easy with the front locker on.

My trooper has gone up everything I have pointed it at. I don't go up dunes with it though.

You may also want to consider a radiador that lays flat under the hood. I know there are some out there like on Humvees.

Tip over point is simply a matter of the angle of the dangle multiplied by the mass of the ass.

Since I have a rear seat on my T2 I have a piece of lexan covering the engine. It is connected to the frame (not the rear dump bed) thus eliminating any gap for hot air to escape between the frame & the dump bed. Maybe this makes a difference. You having a larger cfm fan should only help make the engine comparment cooler, not worse.

The RZR's are in front. It is a much smaller radiator though. I haven't noticed any unusual heat in the Trooper. I thought about relocating my radiator, but I think efforts would more valuably spent by upgrading your radiator & going to a higher flow fan or dual fan. Dumb question but your fan is pulling not pushing right? You could also ceramic coat your exhaust.

Freewai.com seems to be an excellent source for Chery engine parts. The shipping can get expensive, but it may still be an alternative if the stateside vendors are telling you they don't have it, can't get it, or it will take a long time. The day after I ordered a Chinese guy called me and spoke good English. He called to inform me the FedEx wouldn't accept my package and that he recommended Hong Kong Post. It was no extra charge. I sincerely believe they really just wanted me to get my part ASAP and felt bad that FedEx declined it. Even with the confusion the part arrived in 5 business days. The part was exactly what I ordered and needed.

Idle Air Control (IAC) for the Chery 1100: Freewai.com A: D5148 round head for DA465 1.1L, some SQR372 0.8L, siemens system I chose the "excellent" type, but you can also select the genuine part. It was $17 plus $30 shipping. It was this or $209 for a throttle body from one of the stateside vendors. They don't sell the components separately. Freewai was an excellent company to deal with and it arrived in 5 days.

The trooper is back up and running better than ever. It idles perfectly at 800-900 rpm. I found that is was a two part issue. The reason I dug into the throttle body in the first place was because although it was running ok, when I would come off the throttle it would hang at 2000 rpms then eventually come back down to idle. It was progressively hanging longer and longer. That is why I thought dirt in the throttle body may be the culprit. After cleaning the throttle body, the IAC, and the TPS it barely idled and sputtered. So, I took the IAC apart and reassembled. Then all of a sudden the idle shot up and idled at 4000 rpm. I figured I really did only harm to the IAC, but it was worth a try to save $50. So, 5 days later a new IAC arrived from China. I installed and at first is sounded good then shot up to 4000 rpm again!! I took a peak into the intake manifold with a flashlight and a mirror and realized I could see daylight. I believe when I was investigating a coolant leak I saw while I was removing my throttle body I accidentally tore off the cheap Chinese rubber cap on the front of the intake manifold with the back of my hand or arm. I plugged it and now it idles perfectly and doesn't hang at 2000 rpms after getting on the throttle. I will post the IAC info in the parts, pieces, and info section.

Rzr 4 is longer by about 6 inches. I saw the Wildcat 4 in person this weekend. Not as long as I thought & it has pretty ample ground clearance. It looked amazingly smooth while going over the rock. Even smoother than the 2 seater.

I am not ruling out that it could be a combination of things, but since I cleaned my throttle body I have had problems.

Yes, I disassembled the IAC. There is a coil inside and wires finer than frogs hair. Most likely when I cleaned my throttle body and played around with the plunger I damaged some wires. Yesterday I plugged the IAC hole and attempted to manage the idle using the idle screw. It would idle but was still choppy and bounced around. I also played with the fuel controller. It made it better, but not good enough to go out on a long ride.

Yeah, I disconnected it and it runs choppy & sputters even when I advance the throttle. I have a fuel controller & have disconnected the O2 sensor. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Why Lenny's & yours runs & mine does not? I have one on order from China. I know it is a bad IAC, that is not in question.

You know I forgot you lived in California. I saw Lake Havasu AZ on your profile at a quick glance. You are my kind of Californian. If you can't tell I am frustrated with the government right now.

I am in need of an IAC for my throttle body. I contacted JMC and they said I had to buy the whole throttle body for $209. I left a message at Joyner USA...they haven't called back. I found a Chinese company which have them for $17, but shipping is $32. With that I still have to hope it is the correct one which arrives. Does anyone happen to have one laying around they would sell? I understand a workaround would be to eliminate it and use the idle screw. I believe that would cause problems with cold start ups??? Elevation changes???