Rainman

Me personally, I'm not sure, as I haven't bought the cables and set this up yet. But according to what I understand, this basically will just function similar to an OBD2 scanner, which just gives you a reading on how your rig is functioning. It should be able to show any malfunctions that could be causing idle issues.

I have a 2021 Coleman UT400 and have trouble starting it when cold. It was recommended on the UTVBoard to adjust the valves and another small engine tech suggested resetting the ECU, but not having much time to do this I took it to my mechanic, who said he works on UTVs. He has had it for 2 days now, going on 3 days, and said that they got it started a few times without any problem and he sees nothing wrong. Of course when I got there, it would not start, so he's keeping it another day (day 3) to look it over again. He stated he did not think the valves needed adjustment and the choke was working, and he felt the ECU did not need to be reset, as it should have been set properly at the factory. He suggested I should step on the gas pedal while starting and not as mentioned in the manual, as that would position the choke. He said it seems like something electrical and also a gas/fuel mixture problem, since the plug shows carbon deposits only 2 hours after a new plug was installed, as well as the tailpipe and O2 sensor having carbon deposits. He said he could not tell because what the exact problem was because he could not connect his scanner to check out any faults, etc. So with all that said, will using the Delphi MT-5 ECU along with the setup as mentioned above give me some lead way into my problem? Just to make sure I have the correct hardware/software, here are links I found. Are these what you suggested, as there seems to be various versions available? Not sure what part this is Delphi MT-05 ECU: https://www.ebay.com/itm/134459306627?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1b1ZL4xL4S7mlaVytmJ8gjQ96&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=134459306627&targetid=1644837434603&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9005405&poi=&campaignid=20125739985&mkgroupid=149128855676&rlsatarget=pla-1644837434603&abcId=9312975&merchantid=603885579 Software: https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/ VAG KKL USB ODBII: https://www.amazon.com/OBDII-Vag-Com-Diagnostic-Interface-VAG409/dp/B0BZVRPVND/ref=asc_df_B0BZVRPVND/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=673702569586&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4940700528128545758&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005405&hvtargid=pla-2203853459465&psc=1&mcid=afb8cfd0acfe333dbd9c5967e4259230 “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable: https://www.ebay.com/itm/385982814422?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:19OIZi_0IQ-y-avml0UQCLw80&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=385982814422&targetid=1644837435763&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9005405&poi=&campaignid=20125739985&mkgroupid=149128855676&rlsatarget=pla-1644837435763&abcId=9312975&merchantid=561540586 ... and is there anything else besides the above needed? Thank you!

Hi, I have a Coleman 2021 UT400 and my mechanic was not able to test for codes due to the connector not being standard for his equipment. I'm having problems starting when cold, but not when warmed up. Have you been able to find a way to run a tester, such as the Tiny TS-301 for codes on the UT400?

Thank you. I appreciate the detailed instructions.

Quick question - What was your method of finding TDC? I seen a diagram in a manual that stated the following:"turn crankcase counterclockwise ... to mark the dead spots of crank box, namely the dead point position is compressed." Another post on UTV Board stated that he spun "... the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose." I've done this before on a garden tractor and had to spin the engine until the intake rocker was at it's highest point by sticking a small screwdriver in the block where the spark plug goes. That was how I found the TDC on that engine. So what method of finding TDC did you use, because the first two methods above and I know without finding the TDC properly, the valve adjustments will not be correct. Thank you for your help.

My UTV400 has trouble starting when cold but starts with no problem at all when warmed up. Another UTV owner had the same problem that was resolved by adjusting the valves, but I was wondering if this could also possibly be a choke problem. Is there any way to check that our before I go through adjusting the valves?

So as an update to my UTV having starting problems, it went from three try's to get it started to not starting at all. Before approaching any valve adjustment, I decided to check the spark plug, as I was now smelling some flooding. At first, while I was trying to fit the right socket size to remove the plug, I noticed it started getting wet around the plug. Gas seemed to be leaking out around the plug. When I removed the plug, it turned way too easy, which was telling me it wasn't installed properly and may have been too loose. When removed, it showed signs of flooding, probably from trying to start it so many times. The plug also had carbon buildup and the gap was too small. (Note: the manual I have states in one spot that the gap should be 0.8mm, then elsewhere it states between 0.6-0.7mm. So which is it?) I installed a new plug setting the gap to 0.8mm and on the second try, it fired right up. I let it sit for a short period of time and the same thing, it took two try's but started right up every time thereafter. We shall see what happens today and at a later date, recheck the plug. I know that the gas that came with it had been a problem, as it was sold to me new, but I know it was used (long story). It is a 2019 and I just purchased it about 3 months ago. Tractor Supply stated they added some gas and fuel treatment to help with any water that may be in the tank. Although I added plenty of non-ethanol gas and when the tank was down to 3/4 I added more plus some Seafoam, but that's when things got worse. So now I'll probably let it sit and run to use up the gas so I can start with a good tank. Then I'll change the fuel filter and hopefully not have to go as far as a valve adjustment. We shall see and hopefully it was just bad gas causing carbon buildup. I will update as I go along.

Hey Jon, I purchased my 2021 UT400 a few months ago as a new unit from Tractor Supply, which I found out was actually a used unit. It always started up on the first try after a couple cranks of the engine, but now, I have to try at least three times to get it started before it does and then it runs rough. Even backfired a couple times, stalled, etc. After it warms up it seems to run and start a lot better. I added some Seafoam to the fuel tank since I didn't know how good the gas was in it at the time of purchase and that's when it started getting worse. I may have a clogged fuel filter or maybe the spark plug may be fouled, so I will check them out next before doing anything else. Like I said, it's a 2021 and only has about 11 hours and 25 miles on it. You mentioned to condition of the oil before adjusting the valve lash, which will be another thing I will look into. But at what hour/mileage should the first oil change be? I'm sure it never was changed, so I also want to plan that with my initial maintenance. Thanks in advance ...

Joe. I looked over the instruction link I posted above and it just states the following: "Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose." From my experience, TDC would be when the intake valve is at it's highest point and not spinning the engine until the rocker arms have some wiggle. What procedure did you use to find the TDC?

Thank you. That makes a lot of sense, as I now remember I had a garden tractor doing the same thing and after a valve adjustment, it ran like new. It would be strange though in my case, since I only have 11 hours and about 24 miles on the machine. But seeing how these units were produced with a lot of malfunctions, it's no wonder this would happen early on. I will have to check the valve lash and thank you for the update. I found the procedure here, so if anyone else needs instructions, they can follow this link:

I looked through the download section and only seen 2 service manuals, but they are for the Hisun ut400. Would that be a service manual compatible to the Coleman ut400? One seems to be for a Hisun 2014 and the other for a 2020 Hisun. I have a 2021 Colman and would assume the 2020 Hisun service manual would be the closest to use, if the Hisun is the same machine and the Coleman. Please advise, thank you.

I have a 2021 Coleman 400 that is just starting to do the same thing. Used to start on the first try, but now I have to try about 3 times before it starts and when it does, it runs rough, sometimes stalls and a couple times when I step on the gas pedal it would backfire. But once I get it started and let it st and run, all is good. I'll be looking into this myself and will update with any information. Never a dull moment with these UTV's ...

Yikes ... I have to get out there again and try mine out. I have less than 11 hours and 30 miles on mine and hope that's not my problem. I wouldn't even know where to start to replace that bearing. Rob, keep us updated.

With mine, once I put the gas in the tank and start it back up, the gauge shows the difference real time, no hesitation.

Strange ... I had a similar problem. My UTV always seemed to hold back going down hill except one time it started to run away on me and I had to apply the brakes. The only difference was, no clanking noise. I didn't notice if it seemed to slipped out of gear by checking the dash lights, but then again, I was distracted by the speed and slowing it down. I will pay more attention and update if this happens again.

Not sure if you've resolved your need, but mine came with a small extension, which was useless, because I couldn't hook anything up to it due to burrs that prevented me from attaching a hitch. I would have to had ground the end down to get anything to fit. Instead, I took it off and attached one of these, which now allows me to use any one of my trailer hitches. https://www.harborfreight.com/atv-hitch-adapter-65961.html Now I'm thinking of getting the following so I have 4 options to hookup things to the UTV. https://www.amazon.com/LOCAME-Hitch-Receiver-GTW-Multi-LC0065/dp/B0BXPCP6X4/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.10e6d77b-0012-4a6b-b8f0-1618f27938ee%3Aamzn1.sym.10e6d77b-0012-4a6b-b8f0-1618f27938ee&crid=136E2MUC2MSU&cv_ct_cx=utv%2Bhitch&keywords=utv%2Bhitch&pd_rd_i=B0BXPCP6X4&pd_rd_r=000075c1-753e-48eb-8fe9-1b494445fc65&pd_rd_w=ikLg5&pd_rd_wg=AB2Im&pf_rd_p=10e6d77b-0012-4a6b-b8f0-1618f27938ee&pf_rd_r=2EH7NGCX6YB463Y8CK37&qid=1694653633&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=utv%2Bhitche%2Caps%2C139&sr=1-3-2b34d040-5c83-4b7f-ba01-15975dfb8828-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

I would try contacting Coleman first and see what they say - https://www.colemanpowersportsusa.com/parts/utv_side-by-side-parts/outfitter-400_ut400

I had jacked my rear up and tried spinning my wheels and there was a bit of resistance, as well as the wheels not spinning as they would on a car. Took the wheels off and tried spinning the soleplates and it was really hard to turn. It this normal or could the hub nuts be too tight? On vehicles I've worked on, wheels spin easily, but I know this is a different animal, something I've never worked on. So with that said, should the wheels/soleplates spin freely with many turns?

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2021 Coleman 400 UTV So it seems I've been smelling exhaust, but I have a super sensitive sense of smell. So I went around the UTV today after running it a little and after shutting it off, I noticed some smoke vapors slowly coming out the tailpipe. I also noticed a couple spots above the exhaust pipe that had some carbon deposits on it, which looked like the muffler was leaking out exhaust just above where the back plate bolts into the back of the muffler. I then looked in the tailpipe and it was completely covered with black soot. Is there an adjustment to make, as it seems this is running way too rich?

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

Thank you for the recommendations and I will check out Alpha-Sports.com.

Haven't been around and able to read this, but thank you for taking the time to explain what to do. I will look this over and approach the problem as per your recommendations.

Wow, that looks good, Dan. You did a great job. I noticed today that my tires squat out on the bottom too. and are toe out. I don't have the skills to take care of the camber as you did, but hopefully I can adjust the toe, so I can have some sanity to this. I also, for the first time, noticed my steering wheel is way out. Looks like I'm constantly turning right. I need to find information on straightening that out also. Now that I've noticed it, it's driving me crazy 😂 This is the steering wheel when I'm going straight. I never noticed this before and this is the kind of thing I notice first.

UPDATE - Shifter Lever: Well, I got everything back together and it was a humdinger getting those plastic bushings to fit back into the shifter sleeves, even though they were cleaned up and greased. Got the cable adjusted, as per Coleman's recommendations, but the cable adjustment maxed out, which got me concerned. Did the first test run and it was worse than ever. Backed off on the cable adjustment in the only direction it was able to go and SUCCESS. So far, and we will see, no more grinding or slipping out. Now I have to use it around the property and give it a real test. Note: I would think that with the extended shifter piece I would have had to adjust the cable more towards the firewall, but instead, I had to adjust it and pull the cable more towards the front of the UTV, which maxed out the threads. But after adjusting it back slightly towards the firewall, it works, for now. We shall see. UPDATE - Squeaking Noises: Well I raised up the rear first and checked for play, as per Bryan's suggestion. There seemed to be a very slight play left to right, but not top to bottom. Tried to adjust the nut axle nut to make sure it wasn't loose, but it wouldn't move, so I reinstalled the cotter pins. The squeaking had been pretty loud, so with nothing left to do, before putting the rear wheels back on, I cleaned the rotors real good and they were dirty. So I put the wheels back on, took it for a spin and again, SUCCESS. No more squeaking. I guess in my case, it was just a matter of cleaning the rotors. UPDATE II (8/14/23) - Squeaking Noises: Well, the squeaking noises are back and Annoying as ever. Seems like cleaning up the brakes helped, but it didn't last long. I don't think the brakes are the problem because if I put the gear in Neutral it will slightly roll, so there doesn't seem to be any drag. Then again, it may stop rolling if it hits a spot where there is contact. Need to look into this a little more.