Rainman

Does anyone know what the distant should be after the mod, center-to-center, from the sleeve to the rod where the cable seats? I didn't take a before measurement to make sure the final fix was 3/4" longer. What happened was, the individual who did the work for me as a favor, followed a photo I gave him of what Dan did, which I thought would be the best route to go. But after cutting the shifter and dropping in a 3/4" plate, he welded it with the rod going the wrong direction, facing the passenger side instead of the driver's side.. He had to cut and weld it again, but with the 2 cuts, I think that took away from the overall length needed. Mine measures out, center-to-center 2.75", but I think from looking at photos, it should be 3", so the extension might only be a 1/2". I'm putting it back together tomorrow for a test run and he said he would add another piece to extend the shifter if needed, so we will see. Hopefully it will be okay, since I really need to get this up and running. But I was just curious if anyone had done a measurement after the mod was completed.

I know there are a few posts on this thread talking about warranties and such, and I hope you all have had better luck than me. I too was in communication with this "Sergio" person that Ted was and Coleman refuses to give me any warranty on my UTV, even though I've only had it for 2 weeks. This Sergio character stated that even though I just purchased it in the last 2 weeks, and it was sold to me as a new UTV, taking into consideration it had missing keys, missing gas cap and a couple reflectors missing, and that Tractor Supply discounted the price because of this, that Coleman's would NOT honor the 1 year warranty. This is totally unfair to me, as I was not asking for these parts to be replaced, nor should a discounted price have any play in this, as Colman's got their money from Tractor Supply. I should still be getting a warranty, but after responding to Sergio a few days ago, neither he nor anyone else has gotten back to me.

Great info - thanks. So just to clarify, the new models coming in with the updated shifter still had to be extended? If so, that would be the inch and a quarter you mentioned, but is there enough room under there? Seems on my 2021, adding 3/4" is going to get the mod fairly close to the top of the firewall. I am having my son-in-law do the mod for me tonight or tomorrow by cutting the shifter and adding an additional piece in the lever. Since it's a 2021, should I tell him to do the 3/4", as others have done or go to the inch and a quarter? Maybe the newer models are different than the 2021 and needed the extra 1/2". Advise please and thank you. Yes, mine is squeaking like a mouse in heat 🤣 so I guess I will have to check out the wheel bearings next.

I've tried emailing them, but the only email address I was able to get was this one: [email protected] You can also try calling them at 888-405-8725 and ask to speak to a manager or supervisor.

Trying to take the shift lever off with no luck. I watched a video of someone doing this and it seems there is a plastic bushing that got pushed over to allow room for the shifter to slide off. Mine seems like there may be something there, but there is a lip on both sides of the sleeve. I can only push it over so far and then the shifter stem lodges against the bezel and gets jammed. Does the bezel have to come off and if so, does that happen but lifting what looks like tabs holding it in under the hood? UPDATE: Okay, so watching the video again, it looks like the plastic bushing is in 2 pieces that slip into the shaft, so trying to dislodge the inner one will give more space for the shifter to slide off. Now, trying to get that bushing loose from the shaft is gonna be a challenge. UPDATE: Got the shifter off. I did take the bezel off too, but it probably wasn't necessary. I had to douse the part with WD40 and grip the bushing lip with pliers, twisting the lever up and down for quite a while until the bushing loosened enough to slip out of the sleeve in the shifter. Now on to the modification ...

Thank you, Dan. I'll give that a shot and update with the results.

Yes, I agree. I'm just hoping the original owner that put the first 23 miles on it didn't do much damage. I'm still ticked I was told by Tractor Supply that this unit was new when I bought it. I only wish I knew how to work the dash to check the hours/miles properly, but I did get it at a good price, even for a used UTV. Thanks again for recommendations.

Thank you and I will certainly look into it. I've been fine tuning the adjustment on and off for about 2 days now and no matter where the adjustment ends up, I still have F slipping out. So the mod is the direction I'm heading next. Then I have to work on all the squeaking, probably a brake issue. Then I should be in good shape,

Yes, eBay does have a lot of selections. That's where I eventually purchased the ignition switch. The switch itself looked like an exact duplicate, except for the wire connector. I switched out the connector, did some soldering and all was good. But I had a switch to match up as you suggested. Unfortunately, I don't have a gas cap and from what I've seen, before 2021 the caps were female threaded, but from 2021 forward, they are either female or male threaded. It looks like mine is male threaded, but everyone selling gas caps advertises them as female threaded for Coleman's before 2021. Have yet to see any male threaded ones I can try, but I'm not giving up hope yet.

One thing about that, Coleman stated to me it would take a minimum of 3 weeks to ship out any parts and then told a locksmith I was speaking to that they aren't shipping out parts at all. I did call Hisun and to my surprise when I asked about parts I needed, they told me they are not affiliated with Coleman anymore and if I needed anything for the UTV, I had to get it through Coleman. I told them the UTV was all Hisun parts and they said they couldn't help me and to contact Coleman. This is why I am frustrated. I feel like I'm left out in the cold with this. But I'm going to take it one step at a time and see where this all leads.

I hear you and agree. For me, now that I have the ignition switch situation resolved, once I get the gas cap needed, find out what is squeaking all over, and resolve the gear shifter slipping out of gear, I know this UTV will become very useful for what I need it for. I have a lot of work to do around my property and it will become very handy on accomplishing what needs to be done.

I did get an ignition on eBay and only had to change the end connector and it worked good, but with the gas cap, no one seems to have one that states it will fit because those that are made for the Coleman UTV400 are only compatible with any year before 2021. I can't find anyone who can tell me they have one for a 2021 or later year model. Now I know I can probably get one at an auto store, but there are none close to me and I don't have a trailer to haul the UTV there so I can try fitting one on. For now, I cut a piece of foam rubber that will loop over the filler tube and I have a cap the I can temporarily thread over the rubber foam. It works for now.

Good info, but I'm not sure which bolts in the second picture you are referring to. I think I need to adjust my e-brake because the pedal doesn't travel much at all when applied and I have squeaks that sound like they're from brakes and coming from all over. Need to check them all, but want to start with this. If you can clarify which one of the bolts is the adjuster, I would appreciate it - thank you.

I have a 2021 UTV400 and when I purchased it recently it made no noise. I get it home and a couple days later I hear the same squeaking as in the video posted by Rob, seemingly coming from the back. Now I hear it all over, as it's getting worse. Looking at all the rotors, brakes and parking brakes, they look like they're grooved, but when feeling them, they are smooth with little to no feeling of any indentation. At first I thought it was the parking brakes, but when released, I can easily push the UTV, although the e-brake pedal is high with little travel when applied. Good stuff here, as I will have to check all the brakes and adjust the e-brake. Hopefully I can pinpoint the problem, as I mentioned, it's getting worse.

That's exactly what I was planning on doing, since I do not have a welder. Did this added piece work and did the original bolt/stud get in the way of the cable placement?

I have a 2021 and when I first got it, you had to really push up on the shifter to get forward to engage, plus it would occasionally pop out of gear when slowing down with your foot off the gas pedal. Reverse was a little easier going into gear, but would also pop out of gear. Today I adjusted the cable according to Coleman and things got better, but still not great. I made some additional adjustments on the cable once everything was back together and as of now, reverse works good, but on occasion, forward will start slipping out and starts to grind until I push the lever back up. I'll have to make some slight adjustments a little at a time from here and see if it helps before installing any mods. I just don't want to ruin the drive train if the gears keep clicking, especially if I'm going up hill with any pressure on the system. It doesn't seem to actually pop out of gear, but starts to grind likes it's slipping out. I'll update once I get to do some more adjustments. UPDATE: Played around for a couple days adjusting and fine tuning the adjustments. Got it to a point that it worked good for a couple hours, then parked it and took it out again and - BAM - started popping out in F gear again. Makes no sense, but now it's time to apply the mod ... we shall see.

I just purchased a 2021 Coleman UT400 and had a similar problem. Now the manual states the grade should not be more than 15%. The hill on my property, and there is multiple ones, is probably around 35%, but I got it to get to the top, about 30 +/- feet or so. I did read in the manual that when going up hill, to put the UTV into 4WD for better traction. I have to try that to see if by having both axles pulling, the UTV will not struggle as much. Information on climbing hills in my manual is on page 7-10. I'll update, but give it a try and see if it helps.

Wow, I hear so many horror stories of people getting ripped off by the box stores and/or UTV manufacturer warranty's. In my case, I was sold a new UTV with no keys, no gas cap and other stuff missing at a great price, but later found out it wasn't new and had over 6 hours on it and 23 miles. TSC ripped me off big time, but I'm trying to justify this by being able to do the little repairs/replacements, since I did save between 2 or 3 thousand (depending if I compare it to the store or online price). But still, this is very disturbing, as it seems to be happening all over.

Yeah, I just bought a Coleman Outfitter UT400 from Tractor Supply and they told me about Coleman's Chapter 11, which I confirmed online. I contacted Coleman about parts and every time I call I get a different answer ... We are not shipping parts at this time ... we can ship within 7-10 work days ... we can ship, but you won't get your parts sooner than 3 weeks. Seriously, I might be returning my UTV and get a refund.

So here's the short of the long and I'd like to run this by others. I got a good deal, but I may have been scammed, depending on the facts behind the scene, as I will explain. I was looking at inexpensive UTVs with what I could afford and had 3 brands in mind. The only one that was available was the Coleman Outfitter UT400, which was sold at Tractor Supply. The internet showed they only had one left, so the next day I went down to take a look. When I got there the salesman told me that the model they had was just sold, but he would show it to me so I could see it. Then he came back and said he couldn't find it, as it may have already been picked up by the buyer, but he would talk to the manager to see what he could do. The manager confirmed the floor model was just sold, but he had one in the back they couldn't sell. He took me to see it and proceeded to tell me they couldn't sell it because a year ago, after they moved from one location from across the street to their new location, they lost the keys. It also needed a gas cap and a couple of the reflectors were missing. Since it was a 2021, he really wanted it out of the store, so he offered it to me for $6000. Now the internet price was $8000, and the tag on the UTV with the sku number said $9000. I told him I'd have to think it over, even though I was saving between $2000-$3000, I wanted to make sure I could get parts, since I also found out that Coleman had filed Chapter 11 back in February. I came back 4 days later and told him I would not purchase if unless I was able to drive it and the only way to do that without the keys was to hot wire it. He was okay with that, so I got it started and took it for a drive. There were a few bangs and clunks that went away, probably due to it sitting around and now knowing that the shifter problems exist, which may have been some of the noise. But all in all, it started right up and for the most part, ran good. I bought it, took it home, and it sat in the barn for almost a week while I was trying to locate parts. Seems that the more I learned about this particular model and it being a 2021, parts were not readily available. Now taking into consideration the manager stated this was a brand new UTV, here is where I started to scratch my head. Supposedly, the UTV sat there unused for about 18 months. The manager said he only started working there about 6 months ago. When I finally did some research and started learning a little bit about the UTV, I was able to check the actual hours and mileage. The dash showed me that there was just under 7 hours and 23 miles on that UTV. Then, when I went to install the new ignitions switch, since I couldn't get keys for the original switch, I had to swap out the connectors only to find out that the wiring to the original ignition switch had one of the wired cut and someone had soldered it back together. After I started to clean the dust and dirt accumulated on it for the past 18 months, I noticed the clear head light lenses were scratch inside and out and the head light compartment was loaded with dirt and debris. Under the hood was mud that had kicked up there and the windshield was also scratch up, both inside and out. Two bolts were missing off a piece on the exhaust system, which I know had fallen off on someone else's UTV, but the bolts vibrated off of his after about a year of use. And today I found out that there may be a wiring problem with a brake light, which by the way is the only light that didn't have a zip tie holding the rubber dust boot on the back of the brake light assembly, which tells me someone else may have tried to fix the problem. So with all that said, I did only pay $6000 for now to be know as a slightly used UTV, saving between $2000-$3000, and with that I am okay - BUT - Was I scammed by the manager at Tractor Supply or him only being there 6 months (if that is the truth), was he telling me only what he was told and he is innocent? So my question is (3 hours later), do I keep it, fix it, and feel good about what I paid for it and what I saved, or return it and do without, because I really can't afford to pay 10 or more thousand for another brand? I do need a UTV to be able to maintain my 12 aces and I'm now 70 years old, so I'm trying to make a good decision here, even though I am still not certain if I was scammed by Tractor Supply or this deal was done in all innocents and miscommunication with Tractor Supply employees. I'm open for any input and thank you in advance.

The right brake light didn't seem to be working properly, so I purchased and installed a new one. The problem at the time seemed to be a dim light when the lights were turned on and when the brakes were applied, the light would go off all together. After installing a new bulb, when the lights were turned on, both tail lights were nice and bright. But again, when the brakes were applied, the right side again, would go out all together, then come back on after releasing the brake pedal. Before I start playing around with the wiring, comparing the left side with the right side, etc., did anyone have the same or a similar problem? Pointing me in a direction, as to where to start with this will save me a lot of time.

Just tossing this out there ... could the shifter cable be stretched or defective rendering too long? Maybe see of there s a way to get the correct length and double check it with yours. Just my thoughts ...

I just picked up a 2021 Coleman UT400 and one of the things it needs is a gas cap. I believe it needs the 2021+ version with mail threads. Anybody know where I can get one? Coleman isn't shipping anything out right now. I believe the part number is P315001811400000. The only after market gas caps I see available are before 2021.