that guy from Canada

Likley yes high idle will cause it to grind when shifting, also if it has remote shift lever check the adjustment.

Most utv use a relay ignition powerd

Look up in thread, try one hotter heat range plug than stock. Ex: cr7hsa use cr6hsa NGK Lower number is hotter

Is this electric UTV or a starting battery for gas

Your thought process is correct im just always simple first. the spark plug cap on the plug has a built in resistor that can fail, system is.. coil, coil wire, cap, plug. unless it us coil on plug 1 piece unit that goes straight on plug. Either way if you have weak spark you will foul plugs. 2 stroke never run hotter plug to prevent fouling, engine damage will result. 4 stroke 1 range hotter wont hurt the motor. You could simply try that.

Should not be reverse thread. Try an impact gun the vibration will help, also heat.

Higher octane fuel burns slower and prevents knocking and pinging. Also it tends to have a longer shelf life before it breaks down. If your model is equipped with antiknock sensor you will find a noticeable performance increase with high octane fuel due to automatic timing advance to take advantage of the fuels burn time. Regardless it never hurts to run higher octane fuel and for the amount powersports equipment burns price is really negligible. I try to run nothing but premium in anything but my truck... for both performance and incase it sits for a month or more.

You would have to do the research on axle fitment hubs etc. Motorcycle doctor has most the microfiche. Unless your worried ab9ut tearing up your lawn on sharp turns unlocking diff simply has more parts to break inside... just saying

Try to spin driven pulley shaft by hand and make sure transmission is in gear. With driven pulley installed you should be able to turn it by hand and "drive" the utv thru the transmission. If not its possible the transmission is damaged.

Wouldnt hurt to just drain the whole fuel system and try fresh fuel. Easy enough to do

^^^^ check that first ^^^^ I would almost consider a new coil and the often overlooked spark plug cap. Also as a 4 stroke it wont hurt it to try one hotter heat range plug. Ex: dpr7ea use dpr6ea lower number is hotter

Ok so it looks like you have to just clean the spline better Its hard to lign up Looks like you jeed a new primary however

My only concern is that technically your clothing to a point IS your safety gear when using ATV UTV Seen many people burn a leg on hot ATV exhaust in shorts or regret short sleeves and no gloves if they wipe out. Regardless please wear a helmet. Cheers

Belt install on most CVT transmissions reqires primary or engine pully to be removed or disassembled. Do you have pictures of this pulley system your description has me confused

Irony is this... In Canada all our diesel fuel has anti gel in it, right at the pump. As winter approaches that is adjusted b 4 its even in the tanker. So if you have an old jerry can from summer, there is a chance it may gel dead of winter -35 but still usually not. However I will ask some of my friends about what they use, if they do. Cheers

Did you ever adjust the idle setting on the throttle body? As it only runs with throttle applied some people adjust this as a try to fix but it will only throw the tps out of whack with ecu. Also if tps isnt fixed mount try adjusting its position, but only a little bit at a time. Lastly bad temp sensor can cause similar issue as well. If atv idles too low for another reason the computer can throw tps code, it thinks tps is out for current idle rpm. I have seen this caused by plugged muffler or blown out baffles. Also bad or old fuel. Why i prefer carburetors... lol

That is a standard mechanical rotary seal, no o ring belongs there. The little lip under your arrow seals on that white teflon on impeller, thats it. Possibly the seal leaks and it was someones fix, or someone added it because they just did. If that lip isnt damaged Assemble without it and check weep hole under pump for leakage when or after running it. Cheers

Aftermarket is usally pretty good. Ive installed lots. For roof ive bought 4x8 sheet of 3/16 umhu plastic and pipe clamps to rollbar, not pretty but only about 150 bucks. May need 2 sheets overlapped if longer than 4 feet, as in 4 seater, utv is wider than 4 feet. Winch... warn, kfi, or all balls expedition series. Easier to winch around heavy things instead of pulling n digging ruts

Most common cause of no circulation is an air lock. You should not have to bleed the actual pump. Should be bleeder near upper rad hose on engine. Be sure to run it with rad cap OFF or you will never get rid of an air lock. Also wouldnt hurt to test thermostat, keurig is hot enough to open it, pour a cup of hot water, no pod, drop in stat and watch it open. Sometimes takes 2 tries if cup and stat are cool.

To my knowledge ranger xp started in 2005, yours was either manufactured 2004, making it a 2005 model or its an early production 2005 labeled as an 04 The injector should by rights be the same regardless, unless its odd ball but then it would be different shape/size. Believe same 05 to 10 700 800

As a mechanic thats needlessly replaced many rebuildable starters, DO NOT hit it! Also check, clean and di-electric all battery, solenoid and ground cables before condemning the starter.

Unless chain is stretched badly they sould essentially be bang on, even with stretch and marks not perfect, one tooth off is quite obvious. Also be aware some models have a mark on flywheel at F for fire, ignition timing, another at T for TDC make sure you have the right mark or your beating a dead horse. Hope this helps

After that long spiel, you do have valve clearance correct and not too tight

Well not really, choke problems will still cause aall the same issues so its worth checking. If its not a fix id double check timing, remeber to finger in the chain where the tensioner goes after setting to remove chain slack and double check marks. I also install head cover temporarily with 4 center bolts snug not torqued and rockers slacked off to hold cam same with tensioner finger tight on bolts. Then rotate engine one cycle, 720 degrees oor 2 turns, then remove everything and recheck timing. If you have a friend you can hold cam in place with one hand finger tension chain with other and have them rotate engine... slowly! Then rechecking saves ssome time but sometimes the cam will move.

Arctic cat v-twins are notorious for the choke sticking, replace cable, plungers and springs. If the little rubber boot on lever is ripped change it too or ypull get water in the cable. Id reinstall the factory carbs. Also idle mixture screw is super finnicky set it with engine well warmed and deal with crappy long warm up time.