Kinarfi

While I was out for a putt today, I notice the lack of noise coming from my diff, it was fully shimmed and very little play any where, Hope it's good for the rest of the life of the trooper!!

I was out for a little putt today and the fuel pump was running fine, but making enough noise / sound to be heard, easily, I'm worried it may be about to fail. Has anyone noticed their fuel pump being noisy and then failing? Thanks, Jeff

Mine does the same, but not as bad as you make it sound, IMHO, this is caused by the play around the bolts, one of my reasons for using longer bolts with shoulders, Also, IMHO, the fix would be to remover the smaller half of the case and loosen the ring bolts and try to adjust, then tighten, then pull one ring bolt at a time and reinstall with loctite. JUST MY 2 CENTS WORTH

Miguelrmrz, I am a little concerned about the bolts you plan to use to fix your diff with. I worked with Lenny to come up the differential kit and the bolts used in it. The original bolts had 10 mm heads on 8mm bolts, but they were not hard enough and many of us had the same failure you did. The very tough 12.9 grade bolts we came up with do not clear unless they are ground down, and I don't know of any bolts that would clear except for the original bolt which are not strong enough, IMHO. I took some more photos of where the bolts fit and how tight the tolerances are. I ground down one bolt to see what the minimum amount of grinding, maximum head height is and came up with the heads can not be more than .2740 " high. If I had the equipment, I would mill off a couple hundredth off the bearing holder assembly. Take another look at the photos at https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByQAhs0e-yF9bDZFdGtkemRkQVk&usp=sharing

and I added to Ricks post

love to, send away The McMaster-Carr number that I was using was wrong, this one is correct, I have to reorder, here's some photos of what I took out of blown diff, notice that they are still in good shape, I stripped the socket out on some of them, so I need to replace them, so why not just do them all? I'll take photos of the process of grinding them down. Some more photos coming go to https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByQAhs0e-yF9bDZFdGtkemRkQVk&usp=sharing

Have you considered boxing it in with some thin sheet steel? I believe it to be worth the weight gain. +

At the risk of sounding nosey, what kind of bolts did you pick up? Would mind posting a photo, .Are you planning on shimming the spider gears? That would be a new idea for me. Did you read the post that Lenny did about shimming the differential? At one time he was making complete shim kits with instructions, maybe someone has a copy.

link to my photos, got it 'sussed' finally https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByQAhs0e-yF9bDZFdGtkemRkQVk&usp=sharing

I up loaded a few photos. Miguelrmrz, What are you're plans for your Differential?

order some 91290A442 from McMaster-Carr and disassemble and clean your differential while you wait for them to arrive. Then you will need to machine them down so they clear the rest of the differential. I'll post a few photo of what I do when I get my parts. Do you have google, post your photos in google drive and provide the link, like I did in post # 7 http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3083/=w0x9dh

I'm close to 20,000 Kilometers & I believe this is my 4 major rear diff failure, first was sheared bolts, then 2nd & 3rd had to do with bearings and now broken pinion teeth and chewed up ring gear and it looks like the spider bell is cracked, plus the bearing aren't smooth any more. Take a look at the photos at https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/#folders/0ByQAhs0e-yF9bDZFdGtkemRkQVk, on the 4th & 5th photo, notice that one has curved teeth and the other has straight teeth, is there advantage to either one? I'm planning on using the straight cut unit and you can see the crack in the spider bell on photo 6. I need to order some bolts to tie the spider and others to the ring gear, pack 96144A227• Black-Oxide Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw, Alloy Steel, M8 Thread, 40mm Length, 1.25mm Pitch, packs of 50 They come from McMaster-Carr and are as tough as or tougher than anything else I've been able to find, You just have to grind the head down a little for clearance. Let me know if you can't get to the photos.

Blew mine up yesterday while at the sand dunes, I'd made a 15 mile run and was on out for a second run and let the air out of the tires because I couldn't climb and was doing a lot better with lockers in and 4X4 in 2nd gear and hard on the throttle trying to get up this hill when I think it dropped a tooth or two and making a nasty clunk clunk. Got turned around and head down and every now and again, the rear end would lock up completely, anyway, got it down off the mountain and on the trailer and home, tomorrow I'll pull it and open it up to see what the damage is. 39°38'20.34"N 112°23'48.97"W is about where I was when it blew.

Also, unless the plastic around the fuse melted or around the base where the relays plug in, a visual check may not reveal the burned wire or the hot spade lug connector that goes to he relay plug, I've seen them still together, but not contacting, pull the fuse relay block that's behind the seat and take a look there. That's where the pump and fan are common and the power for the ecu PS, fill out your profile so we know more about you and where you are, you may have some one just around the corner who can help and may go ride with

sounds like you need to look at the wiring to all you relays. look for hot connectors and burnt wires on the back side of the relay sockets. my 08 has no ALDL connector, not sure about 09s Have you got a manual for your Trooper, read part and pieces, it'll tell where to down load one.

Is there any one out there that would like to trade their front wheels for my rear wheels, Thanks

How are your synchros, If and when I get into mine again, I'll definitely change out all my synchro but 3re gear is bad enough to give me a reason to get into it, and some, mainly Lenny, says to beef up the throw out bearing arm.

For all around driving, I like my 27X8.5R14LT General AT Grabbers, but you need to get another set for front wheels so you have the same all around, I don't want to play in the mud,so these work great. They do ok in the sand and great on dirt or paved roads.

Go for it, and keep us informed, I like the idea of all wheel drive or locked in 4X4 at the touch of a switch.

I always liked posting my rides and where I went using google earth maps. Of course you need a GPS that records your track and then add a few photos if you want.

Went for a ride out at the Little Sahara Dunes a while back and my clutch started not releasing completely, it got so bad that I had to turn the engine off to put it in gear. Took it for another ride and still had the problem, and assuming the worsts, I assumed that the fork for the throw out bearing was breaking or warping, so I ordered an inspection scope so I could look inside to make sure that was the problem, I wanted one of these anyway, and figured I'd be able to make a hole in the bell housing and stick the camera end in and see what was happening, as I was make the hole, I was also blowing the dust and drill chips out and I could see that the pressure plate was moving and I drilled some more and blew air in some more and I jacked the rear end off the ground and when I put the clutch in, the wheels would stop, so I took it out for a little ride and I shifted beautifully and went into all gears beautifully and it seems to be fixed now, and all I did was blow the dust and dirt out. I pulled the little plate off at the bottom rear and put a vacuum there while blowing in air from above through the hole I made, but if I had it to do over again, I would just pull the sensor and blow air in through there, maybe pull the starter and blow air in there too.

What are these shims you're talking about? I assume they go between the bearing and the snap ring, is that right? Thanks.

I have had my rear differential go south twice, had to buy a new one, which got Lennyized and had that one blow a bearing, so I put the innards of the first in and I'm driving on that now. I'm not sure if I did the complete Lennyizing of that one, but I definitely put the grade 12 bolts in, I think that is the minimum requirement and the rest is refinement and improvement that should be done if possible. I haven't rebuilt the one that needs bearings yet, but I think I have every thing I need. Probably do it this winter, since I can't drive it any way, too cold. The first failure had the spider pin slide out and grind up my case, probably still usable, but probably not advisable. http://www.utvboard.com/topic/3214-rear-diff/?p=18543