Kinarfi

Thanks Lenny, after replacing the bolts, spacer and bearings, I only have a 3 degree camber on the passenger side, I haven't done the driver's side yet, just a new bolt, and it is at 0 degrees. I guess filling and redrilling the bolt hole would be a lot easier than ; A. cut the hub part of the swing arm reweld, B. heat the front of the swing arm and bend it, C. replace

Over the last couple of months, I have been trying to straighten up the camber on the rear wheels and finally replaced the swing arm bushing and the spacer and the bolts. As I was replacing the bearing on one side, I noticed that I had not centered the zerk fitting and it was holding the bearing out, so I pulled it out and notched it enough to clear the zerk fitting. As I was grinding the notch (Dremel Tool) I notice oil separating from the metal as I cut the notch. SOOOO, my question is should we grease or oil these bushing / bearings? Hopefully, some one here will know for sure, or maybe we shouldn't even oil them. Thanks, Jeff

where else have you looked so we don;t suggest places you have tried Casey Strebe [email protected] 480-545-1693 Jose Ramirez [email protected] (928) 344-2117 http://joyner-usa.com/

It was too stiff until I laid them down and started using all it's travel, now it's pretty good.

I have some 2.5 coil overs with 600 and 400 springs that had too much travel, I had limit straps on them and finally moved the mount rearward and outward, the rearward was set so the axle could not hit the swing arm and the outward was as close to the wheel as I could get and the straps are out of there, much improved the ride, front is still a bit stiff, I think the back is great.

My guess is that the caliper plunger is getting pushed back a little more than usual and that makes the pedal feel soft because it has to push the plunger back to normal and the onto to the brake. This could indicate that there is play in the wheel bearing, jack the wheels off the ground and wiggle the tires.

My Trooper has 19300 kilometers on it and for some time I have been concerned about the noise from "back there" and decided to something about what sounded like a box of rock rotating. I pulled the drive line out and looked to see how much grease was in the CVs. There was grease in there, but not a lot, so I got a pack CV grease and filled both to the brim and put the boots back on, took it for a test ride and WOW, all I could hear while coasting down a hill with the engine off was the sound of my new tires. Yay!!!! Jeff

16mm = 0.629 921 259 84 inch 5/8 " = 0.625 inch that's a difference of 0.00492125984" 0.004 921 259 84 inch = 0.124 999 999 94 millimeter I used 5/8 X 6" bolts with washers so the shanks can go clear through mount tabs. I did buy some 16mm X 140mm bolts, but the shank wasn't long enough, so I sent them back.

On your spider, all those numbers can be changed by putting shims on the out shaft.

I would like to suggest that every one consider replacing the 4 swing arm pivot bolt with 6" X 5/8" bolts and tighten them very tight so that the caps on the end and the spacer become one with frame so that the bearings in the swing arm and bearings pivot on the spacer and not the spacer on the bolt. You may also want to put a zerk in the middle of each mounting bracket. The 6" bolt assures there is enough shank to pass through both mounting tabs. You will need some washers also. 6" X 5/8" bolts are readily available and much less expensive that M16 bolts that probably don't have the 100mm (min) shank. At a minimum. go tighten the bolts you have, very tight!!!!! Add some grease too. Jeff Photos later, maybe

When looking for what ever is blowing the fuse, rig a high wattage light, like a spot light or head light, to take the place of the fuse and save the fuses until you find the short. Read parts and pieces, Pinned subject, lots of info there, parts--- jmc, silver bullet, joyner usa

Won't crank sounds like a starter problem, but it could be a solenoid problem where the solenoid doesn't come in hard enough, see interposing relay articles on this site, I haven't had any problems since I installed one on my Trooper.

What's the part number

what parts are damaged is the plate still straight did it just strip out the screws if it just stripped out the screws you can fix that with a helicoil kit I think a helicoil repair is stronger than the original

What happened to the old one?

GOT SOME OTHER PHOTOS TOO

I still have my old one floating around. I'll measure it.

Do you have the correct seals too. Seal FB65X45X8 Seal FB65X42X8

got hacked, didn't you?

Well, it's already back together and running, the " used" one the was replaced by a roller bearing which was the first to be loctited into place, so I don't have any photos, sorry. The inner races of the ball bearing can be popped out which is what I did to clean them and re-grease them. When I come to wheel bearing, I believe in having spares on hand. It sure paid off to have saved the old ones and I was lucky that I had the correct seal.

I had a roller bearing fail, it sounded like I had rocks being crushed and ground, When I took it apart, I found the Loctite I used did it's job excellently, I had to heat the outer race which was still firmly locked in place till I blued it with an acetylene torch and then drive it out with hammer and punch. I didn't notice this problem until the second time I noticed the smell of brakes or clutch, maybe 100 Km. When i checked, my wheel was so hot, I couldn't touch it, trailer time!!! The bearing had allowed hub to tilt and it rubbed the brake pads rather hard and heated up, it was smoking when I stopped. The delay in noticing the problem allowed the hub to wear against the bearing and it created a slight ridge on the inner part of where the hum meets the bearing which I ground off being careful not to grind on the flat part where the bearing seats. In the process of replacing bearing, when I pulled the outer CV, the axle, only, came with it, I exposed the outer CV joint and the grease around it appeared to have dried up, I added a bunch of new grease and it moved freely again in all directions. I installed a used ball bearing that I had cleaned and grease and I'm up and running and have no wobble in either of my rear wheels. I like the yellow loctite and I like roller bearings!! Jeff

I'll say!!!! wait til winter

been there, done that,check you synchros while in there

When I flipped my manifold, I was having a problem with oil settling to the bottom and getting on the MAP sensor, them main reason I did it was so the oil could drain to intake ports and get burned with the gas. I later had to re-ring my motor which has taken care of the oil getting into the manifold, plus I put a catch bottle between the manifold and the vent in the valve cover. I do like the access to the starter and the area underneath and it made it real easy to get at the throttle and run my snorkel tubing, I did drill holes and tried to match and it seems to have sealed just fine. The bed doesn't hit mine either. If you have the equipment to cut straight and weld, it's probably better. Jeff

YE, had to cut my trip short, got less than half of my planned ride done for that day.