Kinarfi

If you pay attention to the sound of your squeaks, there is a certain sound that the frame makes as it gets ready to break. My squeak finally quit, the bracket that the A arms mount to completely separated from the frame, I managed to wrap a ratchet tie down around it a few times and pulled it back close to home position and headed for the trailer. I took some photo and they are in my gallery. After straightening the bracket and welding it back in and mounting the A arms back in, I was adjusting toe in and I notice I had some slop in my tie rod end, rather than just replace it, I ground of the little spot of welding and screwed the top down tighter on the ball and tightened the nut up that holds it to the hub. Greased every thing and it's ready to go, as soon as I rebuild my shocks.

The rubber lines seem to be fine for many years (IMHO) and I thought the tygon tubing was going to be great because you can see through it. The line that broke is still soft and flexible, just broken now.

I woke up around 2:00 to the smell of gasoline, figured it was on my hands or clothes still after working on my trooper all day, but couldn't really smell it on my hands, so I went down stair to see if it was in the garage, opened the door and the smell about knocked me over. There was gas puddled all over the floor and you could see where it had been but dried up. After I got the doors all open, I started looking for the cause and first look at the fuel tank and it was easy to see, my fuel line had broke, bad part is I had filled the tank to the brim the day before, so all 8 gallon had drained out. Could have been disastrous!!!! It's fixed now and when you look at the photo, you'll notice that the hose is polyurethane tubing, ether style if I remember correctly. I have had other pieces of it go weird also, but this is the first problem it has created. I used to think this stuff was really neat stuff, not now!!!! My recommendation is that if you're using it. Get rid of it, I have got rid of all of mine yet, but I don't have any below the top of the gas tank. Kinarfi

Got it remounted and it is as quiet as it ought to be, happy happy joy joy Jeff

Make sanding scratches on all the flat surfaces that mate up so the loctite has little groove to go into and sand from center out wards on both mating surfaces.They don't need to be deep, just visible.

Went for a 136 mile ride with wife & son, he was on a motorcycle, and at one point I heard this squealing sound, but couldn't really detect what it was, but my best guess in the field was the alternator bearing. The had made noise earlier and then quit making noise. When I got home, I pulled the alternator and the bearing felt draggy, so I disassembled the alternator to get the bearings out. Here's the catch, I can't say for absolute certainty, but I think the pulley bearing is not meant to be removed, because when I did, it busted some of the aluminum off, like it had been rolled or pressed in around the bearing, I hadn't looked before, just after I got the bearing out. I pulled the seals and it didn't have much grease, so I cleaned it with gasoline, blew it out with air, sprayed some light oil on the balls and spun it with air, as it spun faster and faster, it sounded like a small air raid siren winding up, I did this a couple of times and each time it took quite a while for it to coast to a stop, but it was very smooth and no play, so I packed it with wheel bearing grease out of the can, not a tube, if that make any difference and put the seals back on and loctited it back into the housing. Didn't have a puller that would fit between the other bearing and armature, so I just pulled the outer seal, cleaned, spun, packed and resealed. My suggestion to all is next time you get a chance to pull your alternator, do so and just pop a seal, clean, spin, pack and reseal without pulling the bearings out. I don't think they put much grease in to start with and with the environment that they live in with a Trooper, I think they need this little bit of extra attention. Jeff

I had a couple of bearing fail, but I got right back on the road because I had most of a spare and it had the right parts in it. I like the idea of the shank on the new bolts extending through all the separate pieces so you don't have a place for shearing to start, plus this is the strongest bolt you can buy, 12.9, and NO, I haven't had any problems since. I think if you get thing tight and loctited, you can put it on your do not worry list, you did read about Lenny's instructions to sand all mating surfaces radially, right?

I don't think so, they don't interfere with anything, so I left them as is. And if you want,you can put lock nuts on the back side, like Lenny says, but I didn't.

do a compression check and see what you get, another more difficult is the blow down test which is build and adapter and blow air into you cylinder, I ran with a bad filter and wiped out my rings and I drool all over my separator, I later made my own and I think it's better and cheaper.

I see you have an expanded iron deck cover, mine is a sheet of PVC (stock, now warped by the heat of the exhaust), have you noticed if the dust comes up through the deck and coat what ever is on the deck, such as coolers and the likes, or does the air flow go down and cool the engine. When I flipped my manifold, I just bolted it to the chrome intake header, had to drill and hold, but it mounted ok. I like the looks of your's better now that you have shown us a photo of it under the deck. To get my snorkel out, I cut a hole in the plastic piece between the seats and brought out that way, I you have some old, or new, shopvac hose, the clamp on you old rubber tube can be worked on the the shopvac hose and you will have a lot longer hose to work with. I didn't like the sound of the intake so close to my head, so my snorkel opening is close to the top bar of the roll cage, + I have a silencer off of a Ford Ranger that had a K&N filter. If yo'd like a photo or 2, let me know. jeff

Not so sure the noise is tranny, I think it may be the differential and I've had a noisy machine for several years and 16000+ kilometers, wish I could eliminate it, but can't, the front brakes do have slop in them an I always here a small slap every time it step on the brakes.

how much for one of these?

my battery gave up yesterday, so I took the quick easy way out & went down to the local parts store (O'Reilly auto parts) and got a $114.99, Super Start® Premium - Battery Part # 51R72J, it fits right in where the old on was. I opened the old Camel battery up to see if it had a dry cell, being as it was a maintenance free and I couldn't add water and was pleasantly surprised to see all cells wet. It still had 12 volts, just not enough amps to get me started. Guess I got my time out of it, it's an 08 Trooper. OOPS I cut the old battery up before I got the numbers off of it, if someone has the number of the top of the camel battery, would you please post the for me? Thanks jeff

Ask him if he'd like me to test it out also Let us know how it does, try winching with out the engine, how much are they?

whrere are you at? what are some other symptoms

talk to Casey Strebe [email protected] 480-545-1693

It's not really a valve, it's just a chamber where the oil mist can separate for the air and the oil drains back into the pan, there shouldn't be that much air travelling through it unless you have serious blow by from worn out rings. That caused by poor air filters letting very fine dust to pass and that wipes out the rings. OR so it was for me.