Kinarfi

Wrote this last night, but didn't get it posted, I used to like in Mnt View, but it was the one by Casper, but my wife says it was on Mnt view dr in Mills a hundred years ago,. Also lived in Rock Springs, so I'm a little familiar with what you'll be riding on, If you didn't already those wicked looking tires, I'd suggest something like what I have, they've lasted several years, I haven't found a windshield that does not act like a dust vacuum, so I don't have one, maybe the rear window fixes that. If you plan on listening to music, you have a good start with the muffler, but your snorkel will need a silence on it too, or you might be able to figure a way to put the filter up front, I was surprised by how much noise comes from the intake. I have over 16000 KM on mine so far. but I had to do a re-ring early on because of the junk filter, look for a fine dust down line from the filter, BAD, also, if you can do a compression test on it do so, an indication of low compression is hard to start when cold, but once started and warm, it's good until it gets cold again, I used to park on a hill just so I could get it started on cold mornings while camping. I don't really know what it would be worth, good luck with that, I have been wanting to revisit the Killpecker dunes, Steam Boat & maybe even visit the Tri-Territorial monument again, maybe we can meet up in the future. Kinarfi Oh yea, there is or was a trooper in Kemmerer and another in that area also.

PS do a search for McMaster and check this forum, it'll lead you to several good articles

Definitely snorkel and better air filter, definitely replace the bolts in the differentials' ring gear, I cut mine in half and added 4 inches, great for me, power steering is well worth the money, I like traction treads like the http://ssl.delti.com.../GRABBERAT2.jpg, they last a lot longer than the stock tire, figure out some way to keep the grease in and dirt out for all you hiem joints, other wise, they'll be squeaking and noisy in a month. Clutch is good, no worries. My Trooper does OK in the dunes, Utah's Little Sahara Dunes, not as well as my son's RZR though, but I have fun. Where are you at? Read through the pinned threads, especially the Parts, Pieces and Info one. Lot of good info can be found amongst all the verbage here, enjoy Kinarfi

Give me a shout next trip, how was the weather.

I have never owned a HID light, YET, but I have gone a little nuts with LED lights! That said, one comparison I did with another persons HIDs showed that the HID is more spot lite than the LED, it reaches out further, but has a narrower beam, My LEDs put out lots of light and I can see almost every thing with in a certain distance, both side of the road, the tops of trees and especially what's right in front of me. I'm not saying one's better than the other, that depends on what you want! It's just something to consider. If I find one of my videos, I'll post a link for it.

I recommend the use of an interposing relay when you get things back together, the long run and small wire from key to solenoid limits the current and before I put one on my trooper, I could hear the solenoid come in, but the starter didn't spin, after I put the relay in, no more problems. Take your starter apart and clean and lube it and clean the commutator and then put it back together, that could be all it needs.

sound like you got some bad gas, drain the tank and go get some new fuel some where other than where you got it before, flush the lines by pumping fuel into a can,, may need to pull the injector rail and clean it if you got fuel with sediment in it, the injector rail is dead ended, so if crap got in, it's stuck there, I drilled a hole in the end of mine and put a small fitting on it to allow the fuel to go back to the tank. ps, drain the fuel into a glass bottle so you can see if it has crap in it.

I like the box, especially if it's keeping crud off the ECU and relays and fuses. I did away with all my relays, replaced them with 57amp P FETs, takes up less space, soldered connection, but I had to redo all the switched to supply a ground to turn them on, http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/1015-fuse-blocks/

mine is an 08, they must have made some improvements, wonder if they changed the ECU, the down loadable PDF at the bottom of parts and pieces shows a high and low speed for the fan

That's the way it's supposed to work, fuel pumps pressurize the system and the fan runs while the pumps run, that's the way it's wired, then you start the motor and the pumps run continuously to supply fuel and the pump relay powers up the fan relay and the fan runs continuously, that's the way it wired. If you don't have a manual, download one, link is in parts & pieces pinned thread. Kinarfi

I did some reading up on greases and if you want to be fanatical about this, you can thoroughly clean the old grease out and then pack all new grease because it's possible that the old and new are no completely compatible and could cause it to melt, or something like that, I think it was the suspension soap in the greases that were the problem. Take some photos and let us know how it comes out. You're welcome Jeff

Common problem, if there is just a little corrosion or resistance in the contact between the fuse and the holder, it will generate a tiny bit of heat which creates more resistance which created more heat and that goes on and on until every thing melts, even the solder, and this happens without blowing the fuse. Periodically, pull and replace every fuse and relay you have, this cleans any corrosion and reconnects the fuse to the contact. I replaced all my blade type fuses with glass fuses to prevent that problem and all my relays are replaced with FETs and are soldered in. No problems yet.

Yes, I have tapered bearings that I got from Casey at JMC Motors. I have had the ball bearings break the balls in half, that's when you can really hear ugliness happening in the bearings. Did NOT use any prep, just thoroughly clean and degrease with brake cleaning fluid on a cloth for the bearing and good wipe down on the hub. Seals are actually pretty easy to remove, just do it gently with small tools, If you put a dent in the seal, just flatten it back out gently, I packed some extra grease around the bearings after they were mounted and more in the back side of the seals too, then you'll also notice the inner race has split in it and you can take a punch and pop the inners out. Try to keep track of which side each inner goes in (tiny dremel mark) and only do one bearing at a time, this will keep you from mixing parts, I did and had to redo my work to straighten things out It's not really necessary to pop the inners out, I just get a little excessive real often. As an example, after I packed the bearings completely full of grease, I put a bolt through them and tightened it up to squeeze it together like when it's mounted and spun it with a drill. I was quite surprised at how hot it got, but it didn't have the hub or the spindle to help dissipate the heat and I was spinning about 10 times as fast as it spins under use.

Hold them in you hand and spin them, if they sound and feel good, they probably are, usually the play is between the bearing and the hub, not a bad bearing. Every time I get my wheels off the ground, I wiggle them side to side at the top to see how much play I have, I have had any for a year now after using the loctite. http://www.utvboard.com/topic/3004-wheel-bearings-again/?p=17500 OOPs it's green loctite, What I do is pull the seals on the bearings, pack them with wheel bearing grease, put the seals back on, clean the outer surface of the bearing and hub, put the loctite on the surface of the hub, put the bearing in, add some more loctite, just enough to see that there are no voids and let it sit and cure, an hour or so and then mount it all back up, but let it cure for 8 hours or over night before take it out to beat the crap out of it.

red loctite is NOT tough enough, I researched this and you need the green loctite that I recommended in one of my other posts. I would recommend that you pull the bearings out and take an awl and go around the inside of the hub putting 100 little punches, evenly spaced, around the cavity. This creates a surface that will hold the bearing and the loctite will fill the space between the bearing and the hub. The yellow loctite has a very high value for this purpose. When you put the bearing in, after the punches, you WILL have to force it in! PS, you do not have to hit the awl very hard, just enough to leave a mark

http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/album/112-kinarfis-album-2008-t2-mods/?view_style=large I made my own LED light bar, works great, not too pricey, Lots of light, not good for oncoming traffic, very wide spread of lots of light, GO with LEDs. https://drive.google.com/?authuser=0#folders/0ByQAhs0e-yF9UVVpSkJsYjVXTTg I also rebuilt 2 of my stock spot lights and mounted them on each side of my winch.

cut it like a donut and put it over the shaft before you put the cv on, it keeps all the crap out of the

THE rust will help hold it on too , I put a piece of polyurethane foam between all my cv and diff joints.

Do you know if it's the same as the Trooper? If so, it defaults to 4X4, does it have 4 wires going to the actuator like the trooper. https://drive.google.com/?authuser=0#folders/0ByQAhs0e-yF9X2VNSnFvekFMUjA Take a look at this and see if it's the same as your's

Keep an eye on the CVs that they don't start binding as you get tighter turn radius' ! Jact the wheels off the floor with jack as close to the wheel as you can get, turn your wheel hard right and hard left hold it there while you rotate each wheel and feel for little bumps caused by the CV binding. It's my guess that you already have all you can get.

Get some loctite too http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2795-tapered-roller-bearings/?p=16079 this is what I used on my bearings, but it's probably good for your diff too. And while I'm here, may I suggest that every time you have a wheel of the ground, push and pull on the top of the tire and see how much play you have. IMHO the two worst problems with the Trooper are the diffs and the wheel bearings, get the roller bearings, repack the grease and loctite them in place

good for you!!

can you post a photo of your bolts, mine were the fine threat, seems maybe they changed something, mine is an 08, what's your's?

http://www.mcmaster....290a442/=r9pc48 order these, they're 12.9 and the shank extending through the spider to the ring gives more shear strength and you put the bolt in a drill and spin it while you grind the head down a little for clearance.