Kinarfi

Here's what I measured on a earlier, 2010, post, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1158-trooper-cranks-but-wont-start/?p=6845

When you get the new one, can you take some measurements? First, do you have a good Ohm meter? If so, can you measure the resistances of terminal to terminal and each terminal to case while in a bath of ice water, then while in boiling water or hot oil if you have a way to measure the temperature,

It has been a long time since I messed with my temperature sensor, but I think it may have been 2 sensors in one, one for the computer and one for the gauge, if I remember correctly, you can measure the resistance from terminal to terminal and from terminal to ground. I don't know how or if the computer uses these readings, except to guess that if the computer thinks the engine is hot, maybe it dumps lots of fuel into it trying to keep it cooler, or if it thinks the engine is cold, it richens the mixture for easier ignition. I do not know. and I don't know what value of resistor to suggest. I guess my suggestion would be to buy a new standard sensor and figure out how to put it back in.

explain please what happened to the temp sensor that was there, is it gone, it sends a signal to the computer so that the computer can adjust the fuel to the temperature. https://www.dropbox.com/s/561djpqwan1re88/1100%20Trooper%20T2%20ECU%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf find A08 in the above file, if you want to take a chance on burning a hole in the piston by running too lean, you could substitute a resistor, but I would suggest putting the original back and find a different place for your manual gauge.

How deep was the mud your were in? May you'd benefit from moving that fuse box up behind the dash, or is that infront of the dash? It's my opinion that all fuses should be pulled and then put back in periodically so that the sliding in and out action cleans the contact for a better connection.

sent you a PM

I actually bought a new caliper and an extra bracket plus one set of pads and one set came with the new calipers plus I already had 4 sets, so, I have new pads all the way around and on the parking brake, so all is well, put 50 miles on it Sat.

For doing yourself, order some grade 12 bolts from McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#96144a227/=bufcy2 and grind the heads down to get the clearance needed, these are fine thread and I believe in having the shank type because that is where the two pieces meet and try to shear the bolts. I think this is the correct size, but not sure. do a search for mcmaster and you'll see where I have suggested the earlier.

Found one, JMC has them for around $10

Does any one have one of these they want to part with??? Kinarfi Also need the rubber boot for the side with the set screw in the back. PS One of the arms got bent because one of the bolts fell out and then it would wedge against the wheel and lock the wheel up, to release it, all I had to do is back up a little. Having a wheel lock up while you're travelling down a dirt road at ~ 20 is no fun, but a real adrenaline rush.

Recently learned lesson: buy your shocks slightly longer than needed and put limit straps on to hold them back to proper length, If you haven't done anything to your shock yet, you have probably heard the nasty little clunk as the the shock top out, I had to give up some travel to add limit straps to mine, but it got rid of the clunk, for the most part. Went for a ride last yesterday where I usually have lots of clunky and had very little, also made for a smoother ride. Kinarfi

http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/album/37-plumber/ link to Plumber's photos

removed from pinned topic

charlie, is that inside or outside boot? after I find out, I plan to clean up this thread, hope you don't mind ps your info will be posted as part of the clean up

In my experience and from people I've talked to, low compression will cause the engine not to start by starter, if you push it or coast down a hill and get it to turn over faster, it will start and run great, even restart with no problem, until you let it cool off for a few hours, then it won't start again. Like Lenny said, check your compression! How many miles do you have on it and have you changed your air filter over to a trusted brand, my 08 air filter passed a lot of fine dust, another fix is to put a snorkel on it so you it gets fresh clean air to breath.

yes, the bolts for the shock are long enough that I can put the eye of the strap at the end and have the strap clear the spring and also act as a shield against flying objects headed for the shaft. Pretty sure that if dirt or water get in, it can drain out the bottom, but yes, I'll be keeping an eye on everything, especially being as it's an experiment. Would like to find a shock boot that had ends big enough to just tie rap to the top and bottom, but till then, I'll see what happens.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yij1rkgg6xtduwl/20130722_113516.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/n3fc8zagp751e4b/20130722_113608.jpg While I was putting limit straps on my front shock and after having to clean them up, I thought I'd see if I could do something to keep them clean, I had some pallet wrap handy, sooo, I wrapped the shock and spring with pallet wrap, so far, no problems with it. Just another idea from someone with too much time, too little money, and nuttin better to do. Kinarfi

Please post what ever you find, I'm sure other out here, including me, would like to know and my need the kit also.

I've been having a nasty little clunk in the front end for some time and I blamed it my front shocks topping out after "sharp bumps" like a 3" rocks or even smaller. I called FOA and asked them what they thought it was and they agreed that the shocks were topping out and told me to put limiting straps on. They gave me the impression that limit straps standard. I wish I had thought about the need for limiting strap when I was ordering them, I would have added an inch or two and then limited it to as much as I can handle, now I have to give up some of my travel to get the limiting so they don't top out any more. Oh WELL, that's life.

you show pictures of the front, is it the same story for the rear differentials? Kinarfi

redid the fuse blob behind the added photos to drop box, redrawing the schematic, will post when done, good night

Hi 2Scoops, what is the size of Wildcat tire, do you think there is enough metal there to drill the holes bigger if you wanted them on a Trooper and what about the back side spacing. Kinarfi

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/02wjgdyi5uykbfx/7lJ9WFR5oK/20130714_121132.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/puw2tj3n2jpr6tl/20130714_121308.jpg Pretty sure our wheels are 4 x 115, That's what I have been stating for a couple of years now with a 12X1.5 bolt

FYI, while I did buy 6 solenoids, I only used 4 for my winch, the other 2 are for future use, circuit breakers in series doesn't make sense, adding the wireless set up is easy, just order one of those inexpensive 2 channel remote ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Channel-RF-Wireless-Transmitter-Remote-Control-315MHz-/290625881151?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item43aaa7043f ) this is the one I'm using, I like the fact that the black piece slides up over the button. To wire it, you tap into the wire going to the middle of the dash switch and tie it to both commons of the relays on the remote and the 12 in terminal, then take one wire from each of the N.O. and tie them to the other two wires coming off the dash switch, now tie the - 12 terminal to ground. added some text to the first photo in my Dropbox, https://www.dropbox.com/sh/igosl0dr7qf9e91/z-rcIQ68ZH

so if your 2012 has 4 by 108 and my 2008 has 4 by 115, when did they change, 2012 I presume. How about posting a close up photo of a 2012 wheel, maybe even tape a ruler to the wheel for the photo,