Kinarfi

Yes, I have it set up so you activate 2 relays for each direction and then also added a loop under the winch at the bottom of the frame so I have something to hook to so I can use a snatch block if I need to. While I agree with Lenny, previous post, I have found that these relays pull at least 2 amps at 12 volts and that ends up being 24 watts of heat in a small consolidated package and can get hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch if not hot enough to self destruct if energized for an extended time, however, even if the winch line is all the way out, by the time you have reeled it in all the way, it should not be that hot. The one definite disadvantage of using 4 separate contactors is that if both in and out functions is activated at the same time, you have a short across the battery. With the store bought units that Lenny referenced, that can not happen, assuming they work like the stock unit but better. I also added the wiring diagram to the Drop Box photo album

Got some photos taken and loaded, if interested, I can put notes on the photos or explain what I did if asked to.

are you sure about the 4x108 ? I have the as 4x115 and if you looking for extra rims to mount extra tires on,see http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2272-new-joyner-t2-owner/?p=10804 If you find some of these rims and try them, please report back

Thanks Tinman and Charlei. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-VDC-Golf-Cart-Winch-Tractor-Continuous-Duty-Solenoid-Relay-/251257396423?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a801b9cc7 My attempt to replace my stock winch control relay with FETs failed - badly - started unwinding the winch and balled it all up, had to remove the winch and then disassemble to get the cable unballed. I bought 6 of these relays and when I get them mounted, I'll take some photo and post them in my dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4xkq03yr5nzf81w/H235IvVSJY , I'll also have more photos of how I put this fuse block together any one wants to copy it.

That is something I disagree with, although several have done similar things like put a bolt through it. I just make sure there is plenty of overlap and that the spring inside is greased and I added just a little more bend to the spring. Another idea for fixing the u joint to steering wheel shaft if you have some spline left is to hack saw down the other side of slot, grind off the metal where the cinch bolt goes and put a U bolt around it to cinch it up tight. You might be able to find a small U bolt that is very hefty by modifying a steel cable clamp if you can find one that size, might be cheaper to buy a new U joint though and drill and tap it. Just be sure that there are no wires that can get caught up in the steering. I had it happen once. EEEK http://images.uscargocontrol.com/1754-1-drop-forged-style-stainless-steel-wire-rope-clip_1_640.jpg $50 for a 1" cable clamp, don't think so!!!! I did find some for about 7.50 though.

One of the first things way back when I got my Trooper was replace several of the cinch bolts by drilling and tapping them to larger bolts. I have never had a problem with the u joint that ties to the steering wheel shaft because I caught it early.

Drill and tap the hole for the bolt to a larger fine thread bolt and leave the bolt long enough to follow up with a lock nut, https://www.dropbox.com/sh/29up7p6qst9af3n/PdnIRCl1YI

Here are 4 photos of my steering linkage, the U joint at the steering box is one I made out of 2 different U joints as described in the link above. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/29up7p6qst9af3n/PdnIRCl1YI

did you see my post of how I fixed my problem? http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2858-let-this-be-a-lesson/?p=16364 ​I posted this in Nov of 12 and I haven't had a problem with it yet. Can you post a photo of what you have? If you have any shaft area, you can have it turned down to where it slips inside the splines, tighten it and then weld it.

Now what are you going to do to keep your hands busy?

I replaced all 8 Heim joints in the front end of my Trooper last year and yesterday while rolling along, the Trooper kept trying to go left, I stopped to see why and the right tire was turned in badly, the forward lower right side heim joint had sheared off. I was way out there and only one person came by, but I had it patched as well as I could all ready, I now carry a couple of the old heim joints. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/d1fnuntei5anr2n/sXqGsh5roN or one at a time https://www.dropbox.com/s/pyo6humsesfu8qa/20130626_162347.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/m3gz2ogxynz606u/20130626_162354.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/2qh8791jx5bkilv/20130626_162416.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/xocepelotcjhx8n/20130626_171919.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/65bmvk0tjn5x3ep/20130626_171929.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/czb85v9lpkoxzv5/20130626_181643.jpg The last photo shows how I had to mount the temporary old heim joint in, it is my guess that the new joint sheared because I had forced it in with a spacer on each side instead of both on the same side as in the last photo. It seem to me that this is not a good set up because if you screw either joint in or out, you change the distance from hole center to hole center and if they don't match the mount centers, you get what I did, sheared bolt and nearly stranded out in the booneys with night coming on. Please take a look or a photo of how your's mounts and post Thanks Kinarfi

I had a failure of the winch control relay and had to be pulled up over part of the Steel Bender trail at Moab and decided to replace that relay with FETs also. To get the current carrying capability, I had to parallel several FETs, each one capable of handling 75 amps. Because I have 2 methods of input to winch 'relay', I had to ensure that it could handle having both in and out signal without damage. After blowing up sever FETs, literally, I came up with a design that allows both signals with no damage, if it happens, no power is sent to the winch. If you want more details, see the other forum I visit regularly, http://www.electro-tech-online.com/general-electronics-chat/134772-remote-control-winch.html Here's the "final" product prior to encasing and installation, works well, I have tested it several times by applying both in and out signals and had no failures. Side note, this photo was uploaded to the other forum and this is just a link, I found it interesting, but that's just me. Attached Thumbnails

My method only pulls the pedal back, if you have a sticky cable, it wont help.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/muvrpjishzssxxe/Stock%20Winch%20Relay.png Here's link to the schematics for adding a remote control for your winch to your rig. https://www.dropbox.com/s/sym75pa293r218l/Winch%20Control.png https://www.dropbox.com/s/r8cfc1eun8s3od6/Winch%20Remote%20Control%20Unit.png The black part is a shield that slides up over the buttons. I have changed the winch control on my rig over to a FET H Bridge, so I don't want both IN and OUT signals sent to my winch control (relay). I added 2 secondary relays to the remote control circuit board, now if you push A(IN) and B(OUT) on the remote control at the same time, nothing is sent to the winch controller. If I push the OUT button in the Trooper and the remote A (IN) is pushed during the same time, the remote control is dominate. Kinarfi

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9tkcx09wdfms911/20130615_205654.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/12o5752svkry1gp/20130615_205733.jpg Here's how I added a return spring to my rig, not sure if it was the for the same problem, but it works, I think it was because I removed the stock return spring.

Lenny, those were the correct photos, what I'm thinking is they redesigned the plate to accept the 13mm head so they didn't have to use a special 10mm headed 8mm bolt. I'll see if I can find one of my old photos

Lenny, look at these two photos, do you think they have changed them from what ours is so they can use regular size heads on the bolts, If I remember correctly, the heads on ours were 10mm heads on a 8mm bolt, https://www.dropbox.com/sc/0te7a4fjixwleoy/oFzXZieOWX & https://www.dropbox.com/sc/1afivknnz3lz6th/0qbEdXRg Kinarfi

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/8l9j5tpzmwbpedg/zUH8B-pE1V ---that set screw that shows in this photo need to be loctited or double set screwed to lock it in place, I had mine back out and the shaft cam out and did major damage, ruined the diff housing. The shield on the bearing in https://www.dropbox.com/sc/1afivknnz3lz6th/0qbEdXRgq- should be removed so the oil can get in and do it job. I agree with Lenny, the housing isn't damaged enough to worry about, nor is the plate with the bearing that needs to have the shields removed, Ring and pinion, no question, All the bolts in https://www.dropbox.com/sc/985lnj8u4q5m4hk/cgDImnQ2Gm need to be replace with grade 12.9 bolts, You can order Allen head bolts from McMaster-Carr, 96144A227• ( I think that's the right size) and then grind the head down by putting the bolt in a drill and spinning the head against a grinder, I used the longer bolts so I end up with shank instead of threads going between the unthreaded parts of the bell pieces into the ring threads, Lenny says put a nut on the back, I don't. Good luck, hope we can help, Kinarfi

I've been thinking about adding a remote control for my winch since I got back from Moab and Steel Bender and seeing how handy it was for the guy that helped me with his winch. My first thought were to use a coil type phone cord, but I have decided on a garage door type remote. All it takes is a ground, and a wire from each of the 3 wires coming from the winch switch. I ordered 2 from Ebay and when they get here, I'll photo it and paste it. Just thought some may like the idea, I think it's about as simple as it gets. If interested, I will post directions of how to hook up. Kinarfi

Breaker bar with 5' pipe and stand on it.

Thanks bigdan120, Put 2 Sylvania H5006 lights in today, but instead of buying the Dorman plug, I soldered some wires on and use some connectors I have on hand. Haven't had it out at night yet, maybe tonight. Thanks, Kinarfi

So instead of changing just the little bulb, you changed the whole light, I assume it fits right into where the old on was, or did you have to change or modify anything? Thanks Kinarfi

Got done with my rewire and only made a few mistakes, got the 2wd and 4wd wires reversed. I ran the winch all the way out and back in and it seems my FET H bridge will handle the load, probably ought to try lifting it off the ground to make sure it can handle every thing rather than find out it can't in the field when needed the most. Also need to replace the head light bulbs but I can't find one locally. I thought I'd ask if any one has found a replacement, then start browsing the Internet.

Here's a fuzzy photo of my relay and fuse block, one end of each fuse is screwed to the aluminum channel which is isolated from ground and when I turn the key on, Ign1, the whole rail becomes my 12v buss via a 30 amp fuse, this buss feeds every thing that was in the fuse box under the dash plus extras and It has 10 FET (relays). there are also 4 fuses on top that are hot all the time. I also moved the winch driver up front. It will all get tested tomorrow and I'll add a few more photos.

Field Effect Transistor capable of switching 75 amps (package limited) Nearly finished, photos tomorrow.