Kinarfi

Went for a ride the other day and got to a place where I needed 4WD and didn't have it, It was an electrical problem that started in Moab, seems I didn't have it there either. I managed to jumper a couple of connections and got it back and headed on up the trail into some thawed over frozen ground on some side hill and couldn't get back up the slope and was getting into an area I didn't want to be in, STUCK and up against a tree on a rock. I also found that if the stock winch is used a lot, the contactor gets real hot and the spring collapses and won't do it's job of pushing the plunger up to make a good contact and you lose on of the functions. I kept losing ground, so I decided to use the winch to gem myself out and my wife started dragging the cable out to hook on to a tree and then when I tried to reel in, I couldn't because I had got the winch hot at Moab. My winch, 2008, came with welding style connectors, so I reversed the connection and pulled my rig off the rock I had high centered on and up the hill far enough to get out and headed on down the road. Got home and decided to clean up my wiring, so the fuse block at the passenger's knees got taken out and moved to the front. I am also cleaning up the rats nest I made up front and I am replacing the rest of the relays with FETs, I put a highly modified wiring diagram in the gallery which will probably get replaced and I'll add some photos when I get done, but it should more trouble free and easier to work on when done. I'm also replacing the winch relays with FETs,I'll have to really test that at home before I head into the hills. I'll be adding more to this thread as I progress. Kinarfi

Do you have a power steering unit, If so, from whom? The one I have did the same thing, The splines don't match, so you tighten the heck out of it, but when you hit a real hard bump, It doesn't hold. you may need to do some more modifications. http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2858-let-this-be-a-lesson/?p=16248

Moab This Time No, Went to Hell's Revenge(ended up in the dark which was cool because I got to see how well my LED lights work, they work GOOOOD!!!, Fins & Thing, Porcupine rim, Steel Bender, and a trip around the LaSals (117 Miles according to my GPS), I was going to come over Geyser pass but the snow was too deep. + a stop at G. R. to see Crystal Geyser and another stop at~ MP295.5 and headed west to Smiths cabin and then to neat little place at N 38° 57.6304' W 110° 24.5416' and on the way out, found an old mine that would make a nice cool place to eat lunch for the kids in some of the caves around N38°58'51.56" W110°22'11.56" If any one wants a GPX file, drop me a PM with your address and I'll send you one or two of them Kinarfi

No, I was there just doing my own thing, Hell's Revenge, Fins & Thing, Porcupine rim, Steel Bender, and a trip around the LaSals (117 Miles according to my GPS) + a stop at G. R. to see Crystal Geyser and another MP295.5 and headed west to Smiths cabin and then to neat little place at N 38° 57.6304' W 110° 24.5416' and on the way out, found an old mine that would make a nice cool place to eat lunch for the kids in some of the caves around N38°58'51.56" W110°22'11.56" If any one wants a GPX file, drop me a PM with and address and I'll send you one or two of them Kinarfi

Got back from several days at Moab plus a few stops on the way home and I now have 14333 Km

If you think your having any problems with the starter coming in, add an interposing relay, stock wiring may pull the solenoid in, but not hard enough to make gooe contact

I assume you don't an oscilloscope, how about a volt meter that can read frequency, does you tach work? can you swap the plug going to you tach with the speedo plug and see if the input to the tach makes the speedo move as you rev the engine up & down.

http://www.utvboard.com/uploads/gallery/album_112/gallery_90_112_164274.jpg

http://www.utvboard.com/topic/778-front-ball-joints-need-checking/?p=2085 I suggest you read this post and fix a problem before it is one Also check the clearance or the bolt head and nut to the A arm with the the frame jacked up so the tire is off the ground and the steering is at the stops.

I think most of us have the www.superatv.com universal kit. I had one of the earlier model and had a few minor problems with it, so they replaced it and what I have now works fantastic. Note: the spline don't match up, but if you're creative, you can work around it, just don't try to make it work by tightening the nuts extra tight, \ Read http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2858-let-this-be-a-lesson/?p=16248 Kinarfi

Well I can't say I'm too surprised, I think you'll make a fantastic rig, I just wish we lived closer so I could come watch and help. Good luck to you and I look forward to seeing what you come up with, but will miss having to opportunity to ride with you and Jeanne from time to time. Let me know if you end up in my area. Kinari

Personally , I believe he already has

Your question #1 If you disassemble you bearings, you'll find that the side that won't spin has busted balls in it. Your question #3 Bearing will only come out the side with the snap ring, come out toward where the nut goes, there is a shoulder on the other side. Your question #2 No modifications I would recommend you contact Casey Strebe [email protected] 480-545-1693 at JMC Motors GONE EDITTED 3-29-2017 JOYNERUSA.COM Joyner USA BRANDON Duruiter +1 623-332-2321 and order 4 new bearings, roller of course. 4 inner seals 62 X 42 X 8 the book calls for a #3 13871-FB65X42X8 which WILL NOT FIT!!!!! 4 outer seals 65 X 45 X 8 #32 13871-FB65X45X8 These are the correct sizes, don't trust the book. Also read at least the two following posts, or the whole thread http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2795-tapered-roller-bearings/?p=16100 http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2795-tapered-roller-bearings/?p=16079 I would recommend you order 3 loctite 680 capsules per bearing or the 10ml bottle if your doing all 4 bearing from McMasterCarr. 680 0.02-oz. (0.5 ml) Capsule 10 min. -65° to +300° F Green 91458A121 1.77 680 0.34-oz. (10 ml) Bottle 10 min. -65° to +300° F Green 91458A122 14.81 After you disassemble, clean and regrease each bearings real good, one at a time so you cant mix parts, clean the outer race of all grease and the hub of all grease and the bearing will probably drop right in and even have enough play for a thin feeler gauge to fit in also. Add enough 680 to fill the space completely and let cure, position the hub so it is upside down so that when mounted, there is less 680 at the top than at the bottom, my theory being that weight of vehicle is supported metal to metal and the bearing is held in place by the loctite. After the loctite has set up, pack grease into the seal cavity and some around the outside of the bearing an put the seals in and assemble. Not sure if you should loctite the spindle to the inner race, as it has the all the pressure of the hub nut on it. Also, grease the splines, threads and the nut face before torquing the hub nut. To get good torque, lock the e-brake, in gear, in 4X4 with lockers in and a 3 - 5 foot cheater bar. I checked the play on mine recently and there is still no play, yay, however, I don't image I have but maybe 500 miles at most on them. Good luck, Kinarfi

So how long will it take you to do mine after you get them? I'll disassemble and clean them before I send them.

My first thought is that you have a blown bearing which is where the rasping noise is coming from. The greasy boot is probably just a bad seal between the boot and the CV. Jack the wheel off the ground and spin the tire by hand and see if it feels like gravel in there and watch the space between the CV and the spindle on the back side, you'll see where your play is. May I suggest replacing all 4 bearings with roller bearing and before you install them, pack them clear full of good bearing grease and then add more grease around the seals and between the bearing and seals.

I assume there in no longer a circlip in there and did you do anything on the line of tempering the metal or does it not need any?

Sorry Charlie, guess I should have put a smiley face on my comment, that was just a partial list of the stuff I carry on my Trooper, ALL THE TIME!! and recommend others do the same, there is also rain ponchos, sweat shirts, gloves and quite a bit more. You never know when you can help others or save your self.

Tool kits are absolutely worthless and just add weight, until you need them, just like the spare tire, and so are the selection of spare nuts, bolts, wire, and safety blanket, saw, jack, blankets, ropes, winch and extra cable,etc.

If the Trooper is empty, which it usually isn't, it can be tipped over 45° and still have room to spare, I hook up a rope to lift from underneath and rig a catch line in case I got to high, but I stopped lifting at about 47° As you can see, the engine isn't even over the wheels yet and at this angle, there was still quite a bit of weight on the rope, I didn't go any further because the hoist was out of travel or oil or whatever, but I couldn't get any more. I did pump the tires upto ~ 30 psi instead of the usual 10-15 psi. http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/918-20130409-105426/