Kinarfi

Not sure I remember, I think it was a piece of float that came out something else and I put a small magnet in it inside an aluminum tube that was threaded and brass fittings on the end. Later I needed a float for my gas tank and used the float off a water pump, but it sank after a while, so I took some polyurethane foam and painted it with gas proof paint, special order, special shape, and it's still floating, if you're going to do this, tell me what size tube you're using and I'll make one for you, or better yet, tell me what you have in mind and make it like mine, reed switches and on off relay. If I can find the schematic, I'll put in my gallery in case you want to do it yourself. Another idea is just a plastic like a straw with it's ends sealed and a magnet inside. Kinarfi oh, the float tube was remote from the tank.

My surge tank is good for about a gallon and a half, but you should never need that much as long as the return goes back to the surge tank. One thing I would suggest is that the fuel be pumped into the top so you don't need a check valve like I did. Mine has a low pressure pump to pump gas into the surge tank and a float system to turn the fill pump off once the surge tank is full and turn it back after it drains to about 2/3. If you need any advice or suggestions, just ask. I have no screen in the tank, but do have one built into the tranfer pump, the from the surge tank to the high pressure pump to filter to fuel reg to fuel rail. I also added a very small outlet to the rail so fuel can return back to the tank incase debris gets into the rail, that way it has somewhere else to go to instead of the injectors. To make the out let hole, I brazed the end, drilled the hole, soldered a hose fitting to the brass and hooked the hose up do drain back into the system. Kinarfi

I have a protractor for the bending of electrical conduit that mounts magnetically, but no good way to tip the Trooper over, thought about using a come-a-long tied to a tree to tip it and a rope to something else so it can't just roll on over, but haven't done anything yet. If you do it, take photos also please. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00939840000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kispla=00939840000P&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=30-151502141-2&PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=39869:4:0 kinarfi

what comes on them originally is the larger hose with a short piece of the smaller hose inside the larger hose and all under the same clamp, sucky, but that's what they did.

Has any one determined how far over a Trooper can tip before it rolls, Left and Right, not taking into account the momentum will have a large effect? I was a bit concerned while on Porcupine Trail near Moab last week. Does anyone have a good suggestion as to how to determine this? Kinarfi

They must have added that since 2008, all I have is 2 outlet inlet holes and no way to put a screen on. Have you experienced running out of gas on steep declines yet? My outlet is at the back of the tank and if I'm going down hill and I only have around 1/3 or less, the ports uncover and I used to run out of fuel until I leveled out. I added a surge tank and don't have that problem any more.

If you gas meter moves with the test light to ground, the gauge is probably good and the sender has opened up, you have to be able to read resistance from the output of the sender to ground, so you'll need an ohm meter, you can get a cheap one for under 10. I have autopsied a few gauges that I think had been wet and the insides runs and the magnets swell and freeze things up, so if they don't move, that may be the same story.

Have you tried disassembling it? does it have any free play on the plunger that closes the air hole.

I don;t know if my IAC works or not, it was failing intermittently and then I found the idle screw and adjusted it for 900 RPM and haven't had a problem since, like Lenny says, you really don't need it, disconnect it, set your idle, reconnect it, and you should be fine whether it works or not, unless it is stuck open.

Well this fix was fun, some of the traces on the circuit board were burned, the heavy ones that went from power in to the relay, so I did away with the relay and used FETs, the motor was fried so I ordered a new one, but it didn't have the half moon shaft and was longer and didn't have the same connection and while I waited for it to get here, I disassembled the old motor and rewound the armature, twice, the first, I matched what I took out, the second time, I added some extra turns, went from 31 to 45 turns which is supposed to give more torque and lower rpm. When I got it back together, it did sound slower. Anyway I fixed the old one and it is in and works. I suspect part of the reason for the failure is that the motor bearing got dry and seized or partially seized, the nylon end cap was melted a bit around the bearing. A new actuator is ~$160, Rocmoc has one for 135 and my repairs costs me 4 FETs and two resistors, the wire came from another motor I saved and I had fun playing with it. Kinarfi

LEDs can be simple or you can complicate them with drivers that hold the current constant regardless of the input voltage, battery only ~ 12.6V and engine running ~14.1, if simple, they will dim some on battery or idle and then get brighter as the engine revs up past idle and the alternator comes up, that's what I did on the 48 LED in the gallery, but my light bar has drivers on it to keep the light constant. If you want to build you own, buy the 3 watt LED, lenses and some 2" X 1" or 2" X 1/8" aluminum channel and mount the LEDs in paralleled strings of 4. BTW, LEDs do not make for spots very well, but great coverage, I,ll have to do a video of mine one of these days. I also made a set of 2 lights with 12 3watt LEDs each for my son's RZR and he loves them. PM me if you want. Kinarfi

You need to throw in a few gps coordinates to posts like this.

I play with LEDs all the time, which ones are you looking at? check mine out in the gallery Kinarfi

Is anyone keeping .gpx files of the rides so you can share them?

does anyone have a 4 wheel drive actuator laying around they want to get rid of? mine fried it's motor and burned some the copper traces on the circuit board, so I plan to modify it to use FETs to control it. I have my son looking at his RC car motors to see if they'll work. Thanks, Kinarfi

buy some rubber/cork gasket and make your own, if you have some double sided tape, tape it to the steel side of the joint, and tap on the edge of the holes with a ball peen hammer to cut out the holes. Been there, done that. Kinarfi

I doubt that this would work for the drive axle, but drive lines do have splined connections, would this work on axles, say a 10" spline inside a 15" spline with polished surfaces. Or would it create too much weight.

If any one gets the spec on the differential on post #2 and it's something you can pass on, I'll see if I can post it in the Parts, pieces and info post. Kinarfi

Sorry it took so long to pin this, it should have been done from the start!!! Kinarfi

Another solution would be to get a copy of the codes and high light and mark the page so you can show the unaware rangers that you know what your up to. However, in my EXPERIENCE, if you get uppity and they want you bad enough, they'll figure out a way to get you, so speak softly and humbly and explain how you have been through this before. Kinarfi

SJ-KY, Open up the http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/ thread and scroll to the bottom, there's a download there of the ECU pinout. As for what Lenny drew up, I'll take a look and see if I can find it. Kinarfi