Kinarfi

That will only happens in Hurricane, I should have made that stipulation, hope you get it fixed soon.

Hi, Welcome to the forum, I'd love to help you and SEE Alaska, however. Go to the pinned Part, Pieces and Info thread, scroll to the bottom of the first post, and down load the schematic for ECU, or use this one http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/861-trooper-ecu-wiring-diagram/ The relays have +12v on one side of the coil and the ground is suppied by the computer to activate the relays. Unplug your computer and using the pin out, try powering up the different items so you know if it's the wiring or the computer, for instance, to check the fan and fuel pump, jumper from ground to pin 67 to turn on the main power relay, then also jumper from ground to to pin 69, this should turn on the fuel pump, that in turn powers up the fan relay. http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/862-2009-joyner-trooper-wiring/ As for you old computer, you can open it up and see how badly damaged it is or send it to me and I'll take a look and see what it looks like and if I feel good about, I'll put in my trooper and test it. PM me. As suggest before, Troopers have a bad habit of have the relay connection burn up under the relay box, I believe it's the lugs not being crimped onto the wires properly that causes this, so unmount the relay/fuse box and examine the wires underneath to see if any show signs of getting hot. Hope this helps, keep us up to date and were all here to help each other. Kinarfi What part of Alaska? On your new computer, use some good silicone and seal all the edges, I had a good post on this, but where I had my photos closed. Do you have a manual?

13,417.9 kilometers and I have been working on it continually, but not necessarily because it needs, I just enjoy doing it and I don't have anything else to do with my time, can't work, so it is something to keep me sane, sort of.

Do you have the computer wiring schematic? It can be downloaded from http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/ It's at the very end of the post. According to the schematic, the one heavier wire is the 14 volt feed wire and the other two go to the computer. You could unplug the connector and measure the supply side voltage on each pin or measure the resistance to ground of the sensor side, the one with a resistance will be power, the two with out resistance to ground will be you sensor.

Here's a better photo of how my doors go on and how they can be stored if I don't want them on http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/858-door/ http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/859-img-0122/ http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/860-img-0115/

While I was replace the front bearing and the rest of stuff on my loose front end, I took time to jack the rear end up off the ground and tested to see how much play I had in the rear bearings, glad to say, it was as tight as it could be.

Some 'interesting' data, I strung a string around the wheels and got some unexpected results and decided to see what I could figure out about it, so I started by seeing how far out of vertical my wheels were, Trooper just sitting on the garage floor, I started but soon realized the bulge at the bottom was messing me up so l pumped all the tires up to near 30#s and started over using a framing square, right front leans out ~ 7/16" and measured 0° 50', right rear leans in ~ 1 1/2" and measured 2° 20', left rear leans in ~ 1 3/16 and measured 1° 30' and left front leans in ~ 7/8" and measured 1° 20' (IF I READ EVERY THING CORRECTLY!!!)Another thing that didn't make sense was the string touching the front of the front tires, but not the back, since I know there is toe in, so I measured the distance between the brake rotors, 52 1/4 rear, 50 1/2 front, that explains the string thing. On another forum I frequent, one of the fellow suggests, sometime close enough is perfect, so I left every thing as was and these thing run on dirt, not pavement (most of the time), s so before I get carried away with this, I'm going to take if for a ride.

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html http://www.vw-resource.com/toe_in_adjustment.html http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/susp/string.html After reading Lenny's post and thinking about it, I have decided to have less toe in also, perhaps the .98" specs is designed to compensate for some of the problems that we have striven to eliminate, such as steering looseness, and being as every thing on mine is tight again and will hopefully stay that way. I have also noticed that the front tires have less tread on the outer edges. I think rocmoc made a mention of using string for doing the alignment, but I didn't get the jest of the method until I read the 3rd link, looks like a simple, functional method. The other links are just good information and educational. Maybe I'll add a few photos later today.

I took a short video of my work and added a few captions, but mostly just a lousy video. I did have problems making the new dust boots stay on when the wheels were turned all the way, so I tied a string to the threads of the screws that tighten the clamps on them so they couldn't pull off, seems to work. If my geometry classes are correct, having a 1 inch toe in two feet in front of the wheels would be the same at the wheels or behind the wheels, and it's a lot easier to adjust when you can see the tapes moving. Also pulled the A arms way up to check the ball joint bolts for clearance and the upper bolts don't seem to have the problems the lower ones did, they have plenty of room. Kinarfi video is on Utube

I've seen several types of doors for Troopers, here's my 1 pound worth of door the keeps crap out and heat in and can be used or left at camp or taken and not used, Ignore that chrome thing at the forward edge of the door in #1, it's a magnet on a telescoping stick that got left there when I took the photo, #3 is an attempt to show a smooth plastic edge cover so it's no rough against your skin if in short sleeves. The blue is shrink tube I put on to pad the end against metal to metal contact. It will store nicely behind the seats or in front of the cargo bed.

Link to swing arm post by Lenny http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1242-unique-fixes/?p=16936

It's my guess that they are coming through the front of the dash, along with the dust, noise, dirt, mud & water you run through. A lot of us have covered that area with various things. If nothing else, put some card board over it the next time out.

I'm just about done fixing the front end, back up after a few years of use and abuse. New heim joints of all A arm, rebuild all 4 ball joints, rebuild both tie rod end ball joint Do a "Lenny" squash on the tie rod heim joints, replace dust proof boots on steering box, cover A arm heim joints with polyurethane foam to keep grease in and dirt out, Replace wheel bearing with roller bearings, replace bearing seals, added lock nuts to the bolts that hold the ball joints in the spindles, FOUND PREVIOUS ERROR, When doing the ball joint bolt fix, check the clearance on the bolt head and the nut at full turn to the lower A arm, I found that I could not use the lock washer I had on and had to grind the head of the bolt down and cut off any bolt that extended through the nut or they would bind against the A arm and limit the turn when the shock was fully extended. To test, put a piece of paper on the A arm and turn the wheel to the stops and see if the paper still moves. http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/857-20130103-152933/ Hopefully, all I have left to do is set my toe in, I tested the amount of play I have and it was 0.000, After I get the tires back on, I'll check it again and then take it outside to see if I got rid of the clunks and noise as well as I think I have. I also did some measuring to see how sharp my Trooper turns and and came up with ~ 50° inward before the CV starts binding, just to clarify, 0° is straight down the road.

After working with and looking at the tie rod to hub connection, I have changed my opinion, I think they would work just dandy, however, if it gets done, it will be by someone other than me.

http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/854-20121226-120556/

Lenny, I tried that compress the Trooper heim joint on the tie rod end and it just wouldn't work, so I checked it out a little closer and it seems that all I was doing was hammering the sockets onto the ball, then I ground the inside of the socket out a little and it worked fine. I got the ball joints rebuilt and did the center punch thing on them and put them into their appropriate sockets with yellow Loctite and cleaned up the stub axles and fitted them with new roller bearings with yellow Loctite and I'm done for the day while the Loctite cures.

Lenny, please correct me if I'm wrong, This puts the new heims in same place as the old heims and should keep the current alignment, However, after thinking about what we have to work with, the distance from the center of the mounts for each arm is fixed, so, you need to screw the heims in or out so the fit that distance, now if you screw one heim in, you need to screw the other heim out to maintain that distance, this also swings the position of the ball joint forward or rearward, which will give you your caster, there is no camber adjustment. If you're not sure about caster and camber, Google it, there are some good articles out there. To those who know, what would be a good caster angle?

If you are going to pull the 8 heim joints, put a mark on them so you tell which one went wear, stamp a number or letter on each or multiple center punch marks on each one so you can tell which was upper rear left etc etc,. Then take a flat piece metal or stiff plastic, and drill a hole in it that the bolt can fit into, really tight is best. then before you pull the old hiem, put a piece of masking tape along the front and rear of each A arm, put the bolt through the hole, hold the metal tight against the arm where you taped it and mark the end of the the metal, my piece of metal was around 8" and the hole was an inch or so off center, so I marked both ends. that way, you can screw the new hiem to match the old.