Kinarfi

I wanted to have a power outlet for my spot light and other things, so I put a cigarette lighter in my Trooper and it only took me a year or so to find the problem. It's one of those that hold the lighter in until it gets hot, then it releases. Trouble is, if you use some plug like that on the end of a spot light, it forces the prongs the hold the lighter out to where they contact the shell and blow the 30 amp fuse that supplies the engine, radiator fan and fuel pump. I blew two fuses to learn this.

You're wife is one to be proud of, so this suggestion has nothing to do with her, but you could add an ejections seat, maybe 2 of them for when you scare yourself to death.

If I get some more lights, Maybe I can point them backwards and use them as propulsion, add some wings and fly!!!!!

Hi Mike, Is that really a big problem in AZ, Right now, It's snowing here, as I sit watching TV from my recliner, all covered up with an electric blanket and shawl around my shoulders and computer on my lap. What a life Kinarfi

just waiting for some more LEDs and lenses of the correct value to put in my latest Project, this ought to out shine the stock over head light. Just hope it doesn't get too hot. photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

Their website is still up, hope they are also.

http://news.webshots...579690123SECOgH They are gone, if you need photo of the fuse blocks or wiring diagram, PM me and I'll post here. Check this out and make copies asap, they are supposed to be going down shortly

How did you break these parts?

Works well for me photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

can you post a photo of your alternator? I have rebuilt a couple of Joyner alternators and had no bad reviews. Try disconnecting the alternator output from the rest of the system, start your engine, check the voltage with no load, if zero, touch the alternator output lead to 12 volts for a moment and then check the voltage again, it needs some external power to get going. Sounds like your regulator is not regulating and going wide open.

Yes, and i still got stuck, it was "old" snow which is mostly ice and it was also warm, fresh snow will be a lot more fun. What I want to try is frozen lakes.

http://news.webshots.com/album/578963557gEzKDF

more update, after looking at the attached photo I believe the assembled yoke is the correct method for assembly and that the nut does not need to be ground down, it's smaller than the rack. sorry it takes me so long to get things done Kinarfi photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

Merchant Mariner, I was looking at your gallery and your snorkel has 2 wires coming off it, what are they for?

I don't know how much heat from the manifold effects the oil pressure sender, but I moved mine, I would at least put some tape over it or over that end of the manifold. Or is that excessive? What is your opinion about it?

Yea, I got a little of subject, there is http://www.atvutah.com, http://www.utahatvtrails.com, and I think at least one more that sends me some info around Moab jamboree time and Piute trail jamboree time. Sorry for my rant. Kinarfi PS If you ever head for Rock Springs, Wyo. and Killpecker Dunes, I'd love to tag along. Also think you'd enjoy Stockton area and if looking for a challenge, there's Americanfork Canyon.

Put some photos in the gallery if anyone would like to see what I did. Kinarfi

This is what I remember the boot and the box to be APPROXIMATELY photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

Just found this post, did you get you problem fixed? I have fixed a few alternators, can probably fix your's. PM me.

Boy!!!!, I sure hope not. All they ever did was bicker and argue when I used to visit there, never got any useful info from that site. Sorry Mike, they just left me with a really bad attitude toward them. Even when I suggested cleaning up there act and creating a place that was model specific so the RZR group could quit bad mouthing the Joyner group, they thought things were fine. Haven't been there for a couple of years now, Hope they've changed.

photos of the steering rack If you want less turn radius, you can run the stop nuts out some more, and maybe get some more by moving the lock nut to the inside. The yokes could be screwed out out a little further and the tie rods shortened to make for it so the wheels don't get a change of toe in. You may have to grind the outer edges of the lock nut off so it slides inside the steering box, that should take up all the play available in the CV Joints. Also remember that the pinion only the center of the rack, so you don't need to cut any more teeth, it's the stop nuts that are protecting the CV joints from getting into a bind. photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

If I remember correctly, the teeth on the rack don't have an end stop, you just run out of teeth. There is actually a tooth cut into the threaded part at the ends and it's the jam nut that stops you. I can send the rack back to you or if a photo will do, I'll try to remember to bring it with me the next time we hook up for a ride. Actually, I've been thinking of borrowing rest of the steering box from you so I can rebuild the old power steering unit with oil bathed gear geared down mount instead of the chain we had. Kinarfi

My opinion is NO, the limiting factor is the CV joint, if you jack the front end via the lower pivot point and disconnect either tie rod and turn the wheel and rotate it, you will feel the CV joint starting to bind. The other possibility though is to put a pivoting system on the rear end, have fun and let us know how it works. Kinarfi