Kinarfi

Yea, I did the same for one of my joint connections, but I had to make a 1 out of two for my pinion to steering unit connection, I had the other shaft like yours turned down so it would fit into the splines, clamped it and then welded it. Is that a photo of their U-Joint?, What brand did you buy? Thanks, Kinarfi http://good-times.we...104110397SjQnwr Here's photos of my installation on web shots which is going down at the end of the month, they say.

If you're putting in a new power steering unit and the U-Joint splines don't match up, this may be of interest to you if you haven't read it already. http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2858-let-this-be-a-lesson/page__view__findpost__p__16364

When you do your U Joint conversion, please take some photos of each step and post them.

I thought I saw some freeze plugs in the block while looking at the photos, but yes, a freeze plug for the water jacket would NOT work. You're right, no freeze plugs in the block, if I was doing this, I would redrill and tap the mount hole that's not used near the clutch but not break through the block and then drill a smaller hole through the wall into the block. Also, I already have a return oil port in my pan, don't you guys have the same? and wouldn't that work with a TEE. http://news.webshots...104110397YaTyES for mount hole and hose

Here's another thought, Pop a Freeze plug and attach your oil return there. It's probably thick enough to drill and tap or braze or weld. Also, I'm not sure how much heat comes off the exhaust manifold, but I have added a shield, mostly for my shocks and the limit strap, and moved my pressure sensor away from it via a rubber hose, it is now located between the valve cover and my flipped intake manifold.

http://news.webshots.com/photo/2412815810104110397EPhkNd Photo of engine with out pan copy it, webshots is going down, but I don know when.

This may be a big off subject, My son got an RZR 4 earlier this year and last week we were out running mostly flat smooth fast roads and he lost drive belt, he said he had just hit 55 mph when it went and blames it on too much sand dunes, but he usual has all 4 seats filled too.

Here's what I did for my mismatched U-Joints / spline problem to make one out of two, on regular u-joints, you pound on one arm to drive the bearing out of the other arm, on Troopers, this ruins the bearing cup because of the dimples in the arms to hold the bearings in puts a crease in the bearing cup. So to make on out of two, a few sacrifices have to be made, see attached another note, the diameter of the crosses had a difference of .001, but after assembly, I could not feel any play and everything moved very smoothly. Later (2013), I had a bearing cap pop out and had to put it back in, so if you do this, dimple around the bearing cap.

My parking brake master cylinder failed and I was lucky enough to get one from a friend to replace it with, I think the problem with them is that the plunger is not protected from the element by a boot or anything else. May I suggest the every one put a piece of foam rubber around the shaft to help keep out the dirt and moisture. Good luck with your search, let me know if you find something and I'll add it to parts and pieces.

a lot of people don't like the electric set up for 4x4, if you get to it soon enough and seal it real good, the work fine.IMHO, if you don't, moisture gets in and eats up a copper trace or two and shuts it down, I had to repair mine and then I sealed it and no problems for the last year or 2. There were some pictures of the circuit board, but the website that has them is shutting down in Nov. so they should still be there, If you want, you can send it to me and if I can fix it, I will, mostly just for the cost of parts & postage and if it's shot, I'll tell you. I thought that when they failed, they defaulted into 4x4, do you hear it operate when you push the button?

Check out the difference between a Trooper tranny and a Viper tranny, look the the 2nd photo above and compare to this one, My guess is that it gears the Trooper up because of our differential between the wheels on Troopers that the Viper does not have. Just a guess, any one know for sure what the extra gears are for? Kinarfi photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

Did that link work?

I have been working on my power steering, it tested OK on the bench, so I put it back in and eliminated some of the "fancy" connectors I had used and it seems to be working, but it seems like it only has 1/2 power. When I measure the voltage, it only gets up to almost 6 volts. I would like to ask some of you to measure the output voltage on your power steering and see what you get. Thanks in advance. Jeff SUPER ATV LATER REPLACED MY OLD UNIT WITH A NEWER DESIGN AND NO PROBLEMS SINCE.

Me neither, and they won't even tell you how much it would be if you did want to pay.

Try this, let me know what happens http://community.web...tures/downloads This gets you the trooperfolk photos and videos, but I think it may get my personal files also from my kinarfi page

I think my whole problem stems from my OLD Super ATV power steering unit, I think it may have died, when I turn it on, it drives all the way to the stop and then shuts down until I turn all power off to it and let it reset. then it repeats. Has any one else had problems with their Super ATV power steering unit? Kinarfi

I have used webshots for many of the photos I have posted and they are where Trooperfolk pictures and video are at too. I'm in the process of downloading and saving them. When they go down, many of the photos on this site will no longer be available. If you need or want any of the photos or videos, you can ask me to see if I can find it. If you want them all, I can send you the link which will be active for the next two weeks. Kinarfi

I think this was discussed earlier, but if I remember correctly, you would also have to replace the ring and pinion gears because the arc of the gears are left and right - front and rear. photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

Let that be a lesson, don't listen to kinarfi, the u joint just slipped on the splines of pinion. If you did the same dumb thing I did when I bought my power steering and tried to make their u joint with 29 splines work with the Joyner shaft with 31 splines (or vice versa or whatever it really is), you may want to do a preemptive fix. What I did was take the needed half of the Joyner u joint and put it on the needed half of the u joint supplied with the power steering unit. To reuse the u joint bearings, they have to be driven out to inside, so you have to cut the u joint arm off, also had to do a little grinding to get the needed part of the u joint to get it on the X piece and sand the dents that held the bearing in off. Any way, I got it back together, but now I wonder about my power steering unit, I'll work on that tomorrow.

Now that's a good idea, just be sure to hook the welder ground to the piece you're welding on so the current doesn't travel through the gears and bearings. Or is that a Duhhh!

2012-10-14, DUNES 03.gpxI actually just sat in the middle of the road and my wife sat with the rig while another rig gave me a ride to camp where my son and a few others were preparing to come get me. When we got back to my Trooper, we started to pull it backwards, if you drag a Trooper backwards, the front wheels will turn to the stops on one side or the other, as it turns out, I was almost turned around and while out of lockers, my son was able to turn the wheels and I was able to go a ways before he had to do it again. Then in 4x4 & lockers with banked walls on the road, the trooper will follow the ruts and since I wasn't very far from the pavement it wasn't bad, then I put it on the trailer. If you down load the attachment, then open google earth, then drag that file onto the map, then click on the map and say ok, you'll see one of my paths, I got stuck at N39 37 56.56 W112 24 38.16 by high centering on a cornice and broke my steering at N39 41 21.56 W112 21 54.60 and put it on the trailer at N39 41 14.54 W112 21 54.75.

I agree with rocmoc, were going to miss you, good luck with you new endeavors. Kinarfi

While out at the dunes, I high centered my Trooper on solid ground so that the right front wheel was off the ground. I put it in 4 X 4 with front and rear lockers and was still stuck, so I tied the winch to a convenient bush and started pulling myself free, but when I tried use power, the left wheel had traction and spun the steering wheel to the right. The first time, I just turned it back to forward, winched some more, applied power and again, the steering wheel, spun to the right, but this time it snapped the pinion shaft off, (I think, I'll know tomorrow) The lesson is don't let the traction on one tire spin the steering wheel. Kinarfi

I'll have to wait til I get back from the dunes to clean and examine the removed inners of the diff. Can't remember if I soap and watered the ring and flange, I do believe I did the radial sanding though, I'm thinking that to get my shanked bolts I went with longer bolts and cut them off so I had the shanks, I'm also thinking that is what I just installed. It's the one that I did my own machining on by grinding the head down with the grinder while spinning the bolt with my drill.

I was right, the differential had malfunctioned, broke the heads of 3 bolts and destroyed a bearing, the one in the middle, (I had fotos, but web shots quit) I meant to take a few more photos, but got carried away with getting it fixed, I had a spare diff that had a piece busted out of the main case, so I put the internals in this case. Headed for the dunes tomorrow, so I'll see how I did. Lenny, remember how on the first kits we did, you machined a nut down to where if filled the hole on the ring gear. I think the use of a bolt without a shank may have been why the heads popped off. one of the bolts worked itself in more to where it was grinding aluminum off, sorry I forgot to photo it. I'll have some more photos after I get things cleaned up and have time, trying to get ready so Little Sahara Sand Dunes.