Kinarfi

I know that you've been working on this problem, what did you come up with? Pretty sure my diff is messed up, I'll be pulling it today. What I saw was the CV was moving around even though the wheel was being held from moving, so I'm thinking the output stub axle is moving and not being held in place by the bearing. I'll know more later, and take photos

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2799676270104282158eYJCrQ here's what I did, it's been riding back there for a few years now, made out of coraplast. I also have another similar storage bin under the hood for things I need less often.

Bearing are in, no wobble, smooth, great, now I have to see why the right inboard CV was moving up and down with the engine idling, not 4 X 4, no locker, 3rd gear, used a 2X4 to stop the right wheel so only the left wheel was turning. also, I had the engine idling in neutral and the wheels were turning and when I stopped the left and the right kept turning, every once in a while the right would stop as if the locker was coming in and when i put it 5th and sped the engine up, 60 MPH, I heard a 'screech' similar to what I heard when I quit riding a few day ago and put it on the trailer, thinking I had lost a bearing, My thinking was wrong, both bearings were still operable, but needed changing. I think my rear diff is malfunctioning, DAMN, hate it when that happens.

Correction to what I thought I was posting in post #2 http://news.webshots.com/album/583118196uDjmVn My album about splitting the cases in Trooper or Viper.

correction to post #2 http://news.webshots.com/album/583118196uDjmVn is my album for splitting the cases on a Viper or a Trooper

A little clarification about diffs Vipers and Trooper have the same motor and transmission ---- I think photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

I did, I assumed that I had to 2 long in one hub and the 2 shorts in the other hub, so I pulled the seal, the snap ring and popped an inner race out of each hub and swapped them and put it all back together and applied the bolt squeeze and spun them with my 830 RPM Milwaukee 1/2" corded drill, I rigged a method of putting an amp meter on the drill and as it ran, the current dropped. The drill alone pulled 1.5 amps, with squeezed bearing, one started out at 2.5 amps and dropped to 1.9 amps and the other started out at 2.5 amps and dropped to 2.0 amps. Both bearings felt good with no wobble on my 10" bolt. Tomorrow, I'll put it together and check it with tires mounted, I expect it to be tight, right. I suspect the use of Loctite 680 at every bearing change may be the fix we've needed, as long as Loctite lives up to it's promises. I'll let you know, eventually.

Off the subject, hi jack, but I wonder how that differential would work in a Trooper, you would have to put it 4 X 4 and leave it, and I guess that if any tire got off the ground, that would be the only tire to spin. Bad idea I guess. Unless you can find a lockright to put in, actually I'd want 3 of them.

left out put shaft on a viper, would that be the same as the rear output shaft on a trooper, the output is not that hard to replace, just time consuming and you have to pull the engine. I may be wrong, you may have an actual differential in there, but I'll bet that other than that, they're the same. http://www.utvboard....dpost__p__15158 went looking at the part list for a 2008 viper, http://www.jmcmotors.us/manuals/1100sandviper_parts_manual2008.pdf , and it does look like what I had to replace.

OOOPs, while I was reading about bearings and grease for bearings, I ran into an article about cleaning them and about not mixing different brands of grease, it said not to mix greases because they may have different make ups and cause them to liquefy, it also said to NOT mix up the inners and outers of different bearings, did I pay attention????Yes & NOooo, I figured that since my bearing were all new, that the article had to do with the wear on them, and I ended up with 4 inners in the same box and the outer were already mounted in the hubs. After cleaning and regreasing because of the mixed grease in the bearings, I assembled them and ended up with wobble in one of the bearings. Bothered by this and the article I had read and experiences I've read about here, I took an unused bearing apart and started measuring the width of the inner races, one was .6845" and the other was .6895 (from memory) so if that holds true for the rest of the bearings, it looks like I got two of the .6895 in one hub and two of the .6845 in the other, guess I'll be pulling thing apart again. We had a saying at one place I worked, it went like this, Why do things twice when you can do them them right?, or was it Why do things right when you can do them them twice? and get paid for it both times. Since I'm my own boss, I don't get paid, so I need to do it right, first and second time.

I had lexan on my air plane, probably about 6 feet of it and I always cleaned it with pledge furniture polish and micro fiber cloth, Didn't have too much dust that high up.

Just checked the price of "car" and for a piece 12" x 18" is $17.63 +12 cents an inch for smoothing the edges and if I round the corners it's $4.20 a corner and if I do a hole (not), it's $12.00 a hole. Lexan is around $17.00 for a 12 X 36 in. sheet. Soooo, it's going to be Lexan until I decide it works or doesn't work and secure it with Velcro straps. I'll have the wife make a bag to store them in went we don't want them mounted. I have some nice loops for Velcro straps from the boots I got from the Doctor for my feet after the multiple surgeries I had so long ago. I'll take so photos when I get things done. Kinarfi

Just calculated the speed of the bearing at 60mph (720) versus speed of drill (1300) and it came out to be that the drill was only 1.8 times as fast.

Question to all, I was doing some reading up on bearing greases to see if I could find a truly best, couldn't find a clear winner, but I did see an article about NOT mixing them, so I took my bearings apart and cleaned them thoroughly. My loctite showed up so I mounted the bearing out races in the hubs, with loctite! If you go with the .5ml packages and have as much or more clearance than I did, order 3 or more packages. I also am considering leaving the seals off the bearings and relying on the wheel seals so I can put more grease in the bearing cavity, any comments about this idea? Also, the main reason for changing the bearing at this time was that it sounded like one of them had failed last time out, what it turned out to be was the brake caliper bracket had a broken pin, the one that goes back into the caliper on the side that had the screw that you back out so you can change shoes and I lost the rubber seal that keeps dirt out so it can move in and out and not jam up. I got a new caliper mount, but I need that rubber accordion seal boot and I can't find one, does any one have one off an old set of brake calipers they want to part with????? or a suggestion of something that will take it's place. Thanks, Kinarfi

My idea is to have some hooks that fit the roll bar tubing with some good strong cables to hold the weight of the glass and then use the same set up with bungy cord to hold them in the center side to side, another possibility is have strap to to cinch them tight that has Velcro on them, I'm trying not to do any welding of brackets on the front part of the roll bar.

What a bummer!!!! I took a hand full of photos and some videos and as I transferred them from phone to computer, I lost the content of every file, all I got the the file name. Oh well!! Any way, spent a good portion of my day working with the new bearings, I have 2 very thick washers that are just the right size to center them selves in the bearings and with a little bit of paper wrapped around the bolt I used to squeeze the races together, the washers centered on the bolt too. With that, I could put the bolt in my drill and spin the bearing, I was surprised when I started to feel the heat build up in it to the point I had to put it in a vice. I let it run while I got my thermocouple out to measure the temp and in a minute or 5, it reached a temp of 100 C and some of the grease had worked it's way out. I put it aside to cool and did the same the another bearing, same story, hot and pushing grease out. I measure the voltage and current of the drill running with out putting the bearing in the vise, and then with the bearing in the vice and calculated that the bearing was using up about 90 watts to be spun at the start of testing, as the bearing heated up the voltage would rise (meaning the drill was running faster) and the current would drop (meaning it needed less torque to be spun) and the required power would drop considerably (didn't calculate that). I repeated the process again and this time the starting power was lower and the amount of grease that was pushed out was less also, but all the grease that got pushed out between the inner races looked like it had boiled, (had photos, but lost them) One thing to take into consideration it the fact that I was spinning them at probably 3 to 10 timers their normal speed and that without being in the hub, they had nothing but air and the rubber jaws of the vice to pull the heat away. At any rate, I think I ran the bearings in a bit and I know that they can't push much more grease out, probably ought to open one to make sure there is still plenty of grease inside, I plan to pack grease on the outside of the bearing between the bearing and seal just to keep any thing that gets past the seals away from the bearing. Another thing is that the piece of all threat (about 12") had absolutely no wabble that I could feel with the bearing in the jaws of a bigger vise than what I used while spinning. waiting on parts and pieces, Loctite. Kinarfi

I imagine we have all considered having a windshield on our Trooper and many have installed them. I think the use of plastics has been shown to be a bad idea with scratches and dust. I've not really wanted a permanent windshield, but there are times when the bugs, dust, gravel and rocks in the face make me wish I had something to protect me. On one of my outing to Fairview Canyon, Fairview, Utah, I saw this antique car with a most unique windshield, it was an oval piece of glass on a gold colored metal arm coming up off the dash about 12” in front of the driver, never have been able to find a photo of it, but here’s what I have in mind to make something similar, storable, and easily installed and remove. This is an idea in the making, and I welcome any ideas and suggestions and comments. My plan is to get some safety glass and either have some holes drilled into the corners or glue some attach points on the edges, then suspend it from the roll bar with something like bungy cord and stainless coated cable and hold it in position with bungy cords to the side posts. Any way here’s a prototype photo.

I took my new bearings and put a 1/2" bolt through them and cinched them down and they passed the turn tightly and smoothly test, then I pulled them apart and filled them with grease and repeated the test, they passed with flying colors, mostly a shade of blue, the color of the grease I added, but I'm sure they're full and I plan to put extra grease between the bearing and the seals too. Here's a photo of the best one of two that came out. I thought I had ball bearings instead of roller bearing and I think I added grease as I did this time, but maybe not as much and the grease looked more like black shoe polished that had dried out. While I had the new bearing in the hub housing, I was able to slide a .004 X.500 feeler gauge down the side of the bearing to the stop on one bearing and .003 X .5 down the other. Ordered Loctite 680 from McMaster Carr, they sell it in .02 oz. packages for $1.61 each so you don't have to get the 10ml bottle and have it die on the shelf. When I looked for it locally, no one carried it, too short of shelf life, I guess. Remember to get seals and that the manuals list the wrong size for one of them, the correct sizes are 62 X 42 X 8 for the inner seal and 65 X 45 X 8 for the outer seal. Again, my pipe bender came through as a very capable bearing press. It's my hope that the 680 loctite will be the fix we've been looking for. Kinarfi

my biggest problem with making them is finding a good float material, something in the neighborhood of 1/4 thick and 2 to 3" in diameter, the float in mine is a 1/4" slice off of a buoy that used to turn my neighbors water pump on and off and I'm hoping that gasoline will have no effect on it, I soaked it in gas for a couple of days before using and it looked ok, so I used it. Next problem is finding a gauge cannibalize to make it out of, getting the glass off with out totally destroying the aluminum ring that holds the glass on the body so it can be reused, other than that, no problems, Just time. Any suggestions or ideas welcome. I'm taking the Trooper out for a drive tomorrow, so I'll see how it works. Took it for a ride yesterday and by that, I mean it got to ride on the trailer for about 100 miles, when we left, things were nice, but by the time we got to our destination, there was a 1/4" or hail on the ground and it had turned cold, so it got to ride while we went sight seeing, saw deer, elk and autumn colored leaves, very nice ride for me, my wife and I hope the Trooper enjoyed it also. Kinarfi

It's been awhile since I had the axle and bearing apart, but if I remember correctly, when you tighten up the nut that holds the spindle on, you are squeezing the two inner races together, is that correct? If so,the amount free play as you wobble the tire can be increase by putting a shim between the races and decreased by removing some of the inner part of one or both of the races, right? EDIT: According to Lenny, the answer to both questions would be yes, He posted while I was typing evidently.

I'm sure I will need some loctite, the ball in the bearings that were in there when I bought it broke in two and crumbled, and the hub wasn't real tight when I replaced them, I did use red loctite, but I think what I used was for bolts, when I put these in, I WILL be using 860. Question for other who got bearings from Casey, can you pull the inner races out with out damage, it's my guess that there is a piece of plastic holding them in.

not sealed to where it would pressure, additional grease would added by hand and fingers pushing it in. Photos coming tomorrow, if I don't forget.

The bearing come pre greased, is there any reason NOT to add more bearing grease to the bearing?

Just got off the phone with Henkel who makes Loctite and they suggested 680 http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797928521729 or 638 http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797921640449 . The 680 has a slightly higher PSI rating.

The top off club in the way to go, but if you're in the 100+ mile trip club, then knowing how much gas you have may be important, especially if you turbo /super charge and fuel manage for more power which burns more gas, I'm still stock and don't think I could burn a full tank in a day. This gauge still bounces a little, but only by a quart or two because the sender is pretty much in the middle of the tank, where the stock varies by a couple gallons or so. If you're really interested in one, I could be persuaded to build one for you, not sure what it cost me to build this one, but I could figure it out if there is interest. I'll make a report of how it works after I run the tank out.