Kinarfi

I just got 4 new roller fro Casey, he got a bunch of them for a better price and the price was better than when I first talked to him. Here's a video of how loose thing are right now, I'm thinking I may have to have my bearing holders welded and rebored or else the bearings really really need to be replace. Kinarfi

Plumber, remember those parts and pieces you sent to me so long ago, here's what the fuel gauge looks like now,. From right to left, the LEDs are 7 greens, 4 yellows, and 3 reds PLUS 1 red & 1 green on the ends. Here's what the sender looks like . The lights go from 1 green to 2 green to 1 green ...to 1 green & 1 yellow to 1 yellow to 2 yellow ...to 1 yellow & 1 red to 1 red to 2 red to 1 red and then you run out of gas. Here's a diagram I made to show how much gas you have The brass tube goes to the bottom of the tank and is sealed, top and bottom so the reed switches are dry and there is no power inside the tank. My thought on the lights is go where you want while the gauge shows green, but when it goes yellow, your 1/2 empty, so if you've going straight away from home, you need to turn around. Kinarfi

You might consider using a thermocouple type sensor, they can be mounted on the surface or as a washer and you can also bury them in silicone to lessen external influences.

You are about to destroy your rings!!!!! That's where all the dust is that gets through the filter and eats the rings, Get a snorkel AND a good filter. I speak from experience!!!!

Just a little side note, when I re ringed my motor, I wondered if I had stripped some of the intake bolts or the threads in the head, I had no intentions of taking it apart to find out and left it wondering. If I ever have to tear it apart again, I plan to Heli-coil all the threads in the head. Just something else to worry every one.

It was pretty easy to do andat the time, I was having a problem with oil blow by due to dusted rings and as the oil would pass from the valve cover to the intake manifold, it soaked the MAP, so flipping it let the oil get sucked in and burned. It also moved the butterfly up and forward and made it easier to access the throttle and the starter and the wiring and closer to the snorkeled air filter. I doubt there was any performance changes, just easier access to several things. I like it!!!

Welcome to forum, please tell us about yourself in your profile

Hi Rocmoc, I kinda had you in mind when I merged every thing together after I did some consideration about what I had done. Again, my apologies to all.

After closing the thread about SB new shop, I realized I closed the wrong thread, In hopes of remedying that, I am merging the three SB threads together, after all, if some one want to bad mouth SB, it is their right, but the rip off thread had changed to where the header didn't fit, but still reflected badly on SB. Hope I'm not creating a mess. Sorry. Kinarfi

I don't know much about the only guy who, IMHO, has tried to support Joyners, may he fail some and not others, I don't know! But this ragging on SB thread needs to die. So I'm closing it.

My 14" General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 95Q 6PR OWL are still looking healthy after 2 years+

Let me know when you need any info from me. Always here to help.

All LEDs like this have this polarity It really doesn't matter which side the resistor goes on and my suggestion is to make it easy on your self and put the resistor in the wire feeding the light instead of trying to bury in the holder and put some shrink tubing over it. you can even use the 30ma super bright LEDs or any color you can find.

I used to think that the Trooper was to noisy to enjoy a sound system with the use of head phones, but since I welded all the cracks I could find up, It's a lot quieter, so much so that I haven't had to wear my head phone lately. Still got the engine noise though.

No, but like I said, I think my IAC is dead. That cylinder is the reservoir for my shock. I have put a twist in the strap since this photo so it clears the exhaust a little better

Looking at the drawing of the AIT/Map I'm not sure what I said in an early post is correct as it disagrees with this drawing. But if you want to know for sure which is the temp wire, once you're sure of the + and - wire, measure the resistance of the other terminals and then warm the thing up and see what changes. the temp wire will have changes on it and the pressure wire shouldn't.

http://news.webshots.com/album/579615789hVkbMJ Those are ugly number, about same as I had before I re ringed my motor, I did do a valve job at the same time which may not have been needed. PM me if you'd like to talk. If you coast down a hill or are towed by another vehicle, will it start and run fine until the engine cools off? That's how mine acted. but it would not start via the starter.

The unit on the radiator is a switch for the indicator light on the dash, not a sensor, it is on when too hot, other wise, during normal temperatures, it is off. The one on the head, is for the ECM . NOTE; If I remember correctly, the sensor has 2 temp sensors in it, each one referenced to ground, I could be wrong on this point, the schematic doesn't show a ground or a second output.

remember that my manifold has been flipped, the device on top & left is the IAC and the device on the side & center is the IAT/MAP sensor. Inside the throttle body, there is an air passage around the butterfly and that passage is closed off by the IAC. If the butterfly closes fully, the IAC has to open to allow the idle air in, but if the idle air is controlled by the idle set screw, the IAC closes up and only adds to the air supply when needed. Having surge problem and wont' start problem Suggest unplugging IAC and set idle with set screw. Kinarfi

IAC is still hooked up, but I think it died some time back which is what forced me to fine the idle screw.

take a picture and post it

I expect my performance, as to where I can go, to be the same, but my enjoyment should improve some, quieter ( I attribute this to welded cracks in the frame), better leg room, safer because I can get my feet to the right peddle easier, hopefully less dust (I sealed up a lot of openings with foam insulation). So far, if there is a down side, it would be the reach to the steering wheel and maybe the 1" wide piece of metal running down the under side of the center tube, or maybe it's a plus because the Trooper will slide on it over rocks. It is interesting how different the noises are though!!!! IMHO PS, I did take it up on the face of Mount Timpanogos via Timpooneke which is about miles pavement and mile of mountain road, no mud, but rock to dusty silt to grassy to gravel smooth to very not smooth. And plan to get more time on it soon

Soon to be move to my thread about my trooper record kinarfi

It's all back together and has been out in the mountains for a test ride, The 6" I tried for would have been too much! 4" is good, 3" would have perfect, It's much easier to get in and out of for this cripple, had to clean up the seat position adjuster so I can move back and forth easily The sounds emanating from from the machine are a lot better too, all those cracks and breaks must have had some bearing on that, or maybe it was running with out the skid plates. Pleased with the new plastic sides. Need to do a photo shoot/walk around/document session for my records one of these next days of every thing I have ever done to it. Always good to have as reference material.

Did a search for surge tank, this is my thread about how I did it. http://www.utvboard....ndpost__p__2458